Best posts made by hackinistrator

@oliof of course it is .
many industrial motion systems use h bot . startasys used hbot in their printers . it all depends how rigid your design is .

i would control each bed from different out , each with own thermistor .

I think , at some point open source becomes pointless .
And , i think RRF already reached that stage .

Lets take marlin for example (i didn't use RRF at its early stages) , i remember the days when i tweaked the code to add sensors / change thermistor tables and other settings and felt like a superman .

Or the days when some of us tweaked android phones with custom firmware builds .

It was fun and all , but today at this stage , i never touched RRF source code and never tweaked it .
Same for my android phone , last time i had a phone with an open bootloader was about 10 years ago .

After years of development , the software grows so big , complicated and feature packed that it becomes a real pita / needless to touch it .
So whats the point of the software to be open source at this stage ?
its only relevant to about 0.001% of total userbase , probably less.

print 2 cylinders (like you did in your images) while one is twice in diameter .
compare the pitch distance on both cylinders .
if its the same - you have problem with your leadscrews , probably one of them bent .

if the pitch is different for the larger cylinder then you have temp / extruder issue .

@deckingman said in Poor print quality with RRF3 - especially 3.2.2.:

How do you explain the print to print variability when nothing changes between prints - not even the filament?

firmware also didn't change between those prints .

i'm not saying the firmware is perfect . I'm just starting with duet3 and i can say that so far with all the various (minor) issues i had , the diagnostics (m122) was pretty much useless in my case .
i also didn't like the default homing files , which mark axis as homed even if i dont have a sensor attached to the board (no sensor = NO = HOMED...) . this could potentially cause damage as i'm using large high current motors .

back to topic ,
your print has no layer shifts , so i guess the problem is extrusion related .

if i were you , the first thing i would change is the filament . if you didn't print for 19 months , i guess that pla is more then 19 months old . pla degrades over time and its the easiest thing to change .that curling is good indication of degraded filament (if temps were ok).

next i would test extrusion / retraction (including firmware )
for example extrude 11mm and retract 1mm 10 times , measure if total is 100 . do this with various feed rates until you reach approx 1.5x your max printing feed rate.
if you think its something related to multi axis/ stepper movement then you can add movements during this test .

your test print is pretty large , i would use something smaller for tests , even benchy would be better .

this guy is doing great analysis of this issue
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dL6u0UwPJOQ

it looks like he also thinks (like me) that this comes from direct drive dual gear extruders . i'm waiting for the next vid to see his conclusion .

currently my only running machine is a modified prusa mk2 . still using marlin .
if i'm using retraction , its easy to tune the seam to be a bulge or a void . invisible seam is impossible .
i dont see how its not tunable with rrf , same way it is with marlin .
i will try to connect it to duet board and compare.

maybe try M303 H2 P0.5 S220

tmc2660 on duet 2 is connected with series sense resistor on the output H bridge .
if you're lucky , you burned only the sense resistor .
check it with multimeter , R33 and R35 near the z axis driver IC .
while testing the z axis driver , did you place jumpers back on the second z motor connector ?

i set very conservative acceleration and jerk setting in the profile i sent you (i thought you are limited to 20mm/s from your original profile) . in S3d those values are under post processing script , as this 150$ software didn't add simple acceleration and jerk settings

i also think you should move away from s3d as they are going nowhere it seems .
for easy transition you can try ideamaker .

as much as i hate S3D as a company , i still find it useful for multi process and sequential printing .other then that , prusaslicer , ideamaker and cura , all of them much better now .

you cannot separate cnc from regular firmware . the future is to use different tools on same machine . 3d printer , laser cutter and cnc .

i also think newer firmware should be backwards compatible . i also understand that sometimes its not possible .

i liked the slicer , it used to be the best one around .
the company is awful though .
they didn't touch v4 for years , not even bug fixes .
they delete posts on their forum and now they want 50$ for an upgrade .
I'll pass.

@Duetfan223 your heater has simply too much power
try m303 h2 p0.3 s220

i think default is 1

HyperCube-CoreXY.TXT

I slightly changed your profile , can you test it ?
(rename file to .fff instead of txt)
please print the cylinders one at a time , not both at the same time .

for some reason your speed is set very slow at 20mm/s , why ?
i changed it to 45mm/s and reduced acceleration , if you have some kind of issues . if its a problem set speed back to 20mm/s
other changes should not effect your printer . the profile seems very old.

i'm far from being klipper expert , i looked at it and the advantages are not my cup of tea .
main advantages:

• high step rates , can print insanely fast .
• can connect several boards together , even if they are not the same type .
• can "revive" your old 8bit board and make it modern .

recently there are tons of videos on youtube of people printing at insanely fast speeds like 500-800mm/s with klipper .
i don't know what this all about . the printed parts look like sh*t , layer adhesion is poor , so whats the point ?
honestly , i print at 30-40mm/s most of the time , with pla i can go with 60mm/s also . above that , and layer adhesion starts to be an issue .

2000 deg sounds more like a connection issue then interference .

i'm 90% sure its your bed heat cycle .
try to print without heating the bed .

i'm more interested in those new nozzles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShpLnIFpAhw

my nozzle x is holding up pretty good though.

i think you should test how much (steady state) current is needed to maintain your max expected bed temp with your bed config .
if the current is anywhere near 30A , i would use double 10awg wire , as 10awg wont be enough for hours of printing + hot bed .
you can basically use any pwm capable out as another bed heater if its going through ssr anyways .the simplest is to use one of the extruder heaters (if not in use).

for slicer setting ,simple solution is to configure the second bed as "chamber heater" (if you don't use one anyways) , then just activate it in slicer setting if needed .

i dont like how the heater block is held only by the tiny surgical tube .
this tube is press fit bi metal . i have this kind of tube on v6 , also made by trianglelab and i can spin the heater block while holding the cold side .