Topics created by Heide

@heide

That height map looks good.

And, yes, Cura has a places for user code. I believe most slicers do.

You have to add your printer to Cura and configure the Cura settings for it.

Here is a screen shot of the Cura page where you can enter user code - you can see what I have entered.

Cura 4.x Machine Settings Page.png

Frederick

@heide said in Mesh bed compensation:

@fcwilt I have now adjusted the config.g and it works. I stille need to level the bed by hand, but that must be later on.

Please mark it as solved and thank you very much for your help

Glad to hear you got it working and I am glad I was able to help.

Frederick

@heide said in Bed deviation:

I can see the point in what your both saying, and of cause the size of the nozzle and layer hight are also important. And I can also see the potential in stepper motors with a smaller angle.

I have a bed that is 8 mm. thick and a smooth surface. But I do not think that is is even/levelled enough.
I can maybe find something to adjust the last 0.1 mm. but is it worth it or will the compensation fix that?

My printer has an 8mm thick cast tooling plate bed with a layer of PEI on top. It's flat enough that I can print a 200 um first layer edge to edge on the 300 x300 surface (I haven't tried thinner layers than that over the whole surface). I use the manual bed leveling assistant and a piece of paper to tram the bed. The last time I had to do it was about a year ago, I think. It takes about 1 minute.

One more factor to consider in keeping the first layer stuck to the bed is the print surface. PEI sticks to most molten plastics very well without having to add any extra goop.

It varies depending on how thick the plate is. The thicker it is the longer it takes to cool down between cycles. On my 300x300x6mm plate and 600w 120v heater it takes about 15 minutes to tune to 75c.

Mark as solved

@dc42 @Phaedrux the reason that I ask is because I have problems with z not homing. I have another tread about that. I have searched alot of answers and @droftarts is helping me with it. And that got me thinking that the FW could be corrupted. But I can understand thats not possible. I have connection with Ethernet, not WiFi.

I do not know why, but it helped to instal new Firmware. I think there must have been somekind of corruption, I do not know. Maybe it is like what @droftarts said, it can be corrupted. What I know is that I had alot of restarts, alot of changing the code, alot of inspecting my wiring to see if there should be a problem there. Maybe the change of code and the restarts has done something to the Firmware. Anyway yesterday evening I had succes in getting the Z-axel touching the endstop 😀 and I am of cause very happy with that.
So for a small moment I will leave your experience a little, I hope. So you can use it else were 🙂

I would like to thank you all for your time. Thanks

@zapta Thanks I have now change them all, Blue on Red vice versa. And it seems to do the trick.
I'm using:
G91
G1 H2 Y10 F3000
G1 H2 X10 F3000
G1 H2 Z200 F3000
And it works.

But know I have problems with Homing.

Anyway thanks

I have to start a new tread, for the Coding, but before I do that, I'll give it one more go

@droftarts No problem, have a nice evening

@heide said in Inductive on Duet 3 and wiring of the Heat Bed:

I will not place a diode in between, if I have understanded this sentence correctly. Can you elaporate on that?
"Duet 3, Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet revision 1.04 or later, Duet 2 Maestro: you can connect the output of the sensor directly to the Z-probe IN pin".

Yes that is what I take the documentation to mean. You should be ok without a diode.

@jay_s_uk

Then I have made it wrong. I am happy that it has not been powered on just yet. Thanks 🙂