Topics created by jens55

Just as a follow up, I am happy to report that drying the PETG helped quite a bit. While the new print isn't perfect, I can't call it a 'dogs breakfast'. Besides drying the filament, I also went with random seams as all other choices ended up putting the seams on the overhangs.

@MJLew, thanks again for your suggestions. This morning I collected the new print and there was only a tiny area that showed the same symptoms as the earlier print. It was a thing of (mostly) beauty!
I do not know what parameter change(s) caused the huge improvement. I forgot to mention that I had also added a tiny bit of support but that support was not in the problem areas but rather what PS felt strongly about.
I need one more of these fittings so I will get to reverse one or two of the previous changes to maybe narrow things down a bit more but my gut feeling is that reducing the speed was the cause of the improvement.
The next print will be started tonight for another overnight print.

Anybody ?

@Phaedrux, while not impossible, I don't really know what I am doing. Could you give me a hint as to what you expect to see? There is no apparent (at least to me) difference in printer behaviour between a printer that shows hiccups vs one that doesn't produce hiccups. I don't know if maybe one would see choppy motion for example ... but there is no hint of choppiness.

@T3P3Tony
Note that the issue with my other printer still exists and is giving me many many hiccups. I am not too concerned with the temperature bumps any more but the hiccup issue concerns me.

It would probably best to start a new dedicated thread. Include a recap of the issue and what you've tried to isolate it so far. Include your config and firmware details and a bit about the printer in question. Thanks.

@dc42, 3.5.0-rc.1
I will upgrade to rc2 later today to see what happens.

@jens55 yes, M561, post amended.

@jens55 prints not fully finishing. Not sure about the moves thing

Yeah, I think I will order some holy magnets. Very annoying though - it's only two of the 8 magnets ....

@droftarts Thanks!

@jens55 said in PETG as a support interface layer for PLA:

e using for print speed for your separation layer and also what you are using for support density? Also, do you use normal printing temperatures for the PETG or do you print the separation layer at a nozzle temperature different from a normal PETG prin

I use a raised temperature of 260°C for the PETG and a regular 225°C for the PLA. The interface print speed is at 60mm/s. Z-Top distance is set to zero. Support density is set to 2.5mm Top interface spacing is set to 0.00 Bridge print speed set to 40mm/s

@jens55 said in PETG as a support interface layer for PLA:

I believe Cura allows for a variable density where support density is low but then goes very dense just prior to the separation layer. I could not find anything like that in PS.

Yes, this is unique to Cura, and generally crashes (at least for me) when I try to use it on more complex parts.

I generally find printing PETG at higher temperatures helps drastically. Also make sure the nozzle is clean as PETg loves to stick to itself.
If you want, send over some pictures as there might be some other aspects causing the failiures

@jens55 - I run on Win10. And yes, no problem with psychical printers. I have 2.

Got to know that you solve problem. 👍

I will add a 2 cents comments here: never underestimate the Z axis calibration, I had your problems before and was just a matter of calibration on my Z axis (Im a fan of 0.1 and below layers jaja).

Also I will vote a +10 on the overestrusion and here I have something I looked somehow deep: the teeths of the hobbed bolts on the extruders, even the teehts on the bondtech dual geared extruders can have a huge impact on extrusion, to a point where changing them to a smaller size can give you upto 4% difference on the extrusion rate. Even on diferente material you can find a difference: softer material suffer more on this that harder materials. And even speed changes extrusion sice teehts tend to "bite" more deeper if you print faster.

@KenW, this printer IS line powered (750W 300 x 300)
I am not entirely sure what actually is happening. Before I turn on the heater, I get a nice steady temperature reading. As soon as the heater goes on, temperature jumps around and, for a few seconds, that's all it does. Then the temperature starts to go up and the temperature reading appears to be generally stable (and increasing).

I just had an interesting thought .... with the heater being line powered and the thermistor being glued to the heater, maybe I am seeing interference. This would be more of a problem when cold as the resistance is higher. I do not use a shielded cable for the thermistor and it runs together with the power lines from the bed right to the electronics compartment. It's not even a twisted line.
Funny thing is that all three of my printers are configured that way and they see to be mostly ok (although I had intermittent problems like this in the past)
Interference would explain a lot though ..... I wonder if it would make sense to stick a substantial capacitor across the sensor input pins on the Duet to absorb quick spikes? Any comments on a bandaid such as that?

I am curious though why a spike would trigger the heater error because the error has to persist for a while before a fault is triggered. I seem to recall that the time for error detection can be extended - I will give this a try first since it's just a line in config.g. I am reluctant to do this because it applies to the entire print job and not just the startup phase.
Now that I am thinking about it, maybe since the heater is hard on during startup it causes more interference than a slowly cycling heater?

@fcwilt ... it took a while to find but I did eventually locate what you are talking about. I have never used the macro listing on the far right of the 'Dashboard' screen. For some bizarre reason I never consciously noticed that section of the screen. If I wanted to invoke a macro, I would go to the 'Macro' menu.
Looks like I have some learning to do ....

Thank you !

@jens55 Thanks for confirming!

I edited the pre release into an actual final release of rfm 1.2.0. No need for you to switch out anything it's the exact same binaries.

Will update the tool thread tomorrow. Happy this was solved so easy and sorry for the bug.

I think the limit varies depending on the other variables, but I'm not certain. It's time in seconds though, so you may be able to measure a reasonable ballpark.

@dc42, Yes, I have multiple access points with the same SSID. Your scenario of starting at the lowest channel and picking the first AP it can connect to fits the situation perfectly except when the Duet was locked to the closer AP and decided to not connect at all.
It is actually hilarious that all this started with my reply to @NeoDue where I suggested locking the printer to the closer AP .... which I then did myself which resulted in a full day of drama.
I just finished downgrading the wifi module firmware so the M537.1 and M537.2 commands are not available to me but I would suggest the outcome would be exactly like what @NeoDue has posted in the referenced thread.
I have made piece with the idea that locking the Duet to a specific AP is bad karma. Everything is working and I am not touching a thing lest it all goes south again!