Topics created by nbGU

@Phaedrux This is true on S3D, unless they come out with the great update....
It still comes in 2nd on my list due to the fact that I've been using it for some years (very comfortable with it) and it has never really failed me.
But YES, if just starting - I would advise not to learn it as it seems DIW.

@arhi I must admit I was expecting the PP build plate to be poor at best for most materials but I think its brilliant, and cheap enough that I don't mind replacing it if I damage it.

Thanks for the tips, I'll do the usual tuning to dial in the PP but be sure to start on the side of not sticking enough.

I do a lot of prototyping both through my day job and on the side, I'm sure PP will come in handy at some point (living hinges for example). Im basically just trying to add as many materials options as I can, and to do this without the need for multiple different build plates or to have to use adhesives, tapes, hairspray etc.

If you are looking for a quiet (fan-less) power supply that stays cool, has proper safety certifications and is from a know brand, I recommend the Meanwell UHP series, they come in different voltage and power specifications, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GPDRV7V

@nbGU said in Independant heater control during G29 probing:

my nozzle temperature falls considerably (fine) but is not allowed to heat back up to printing temperature before the print starts after probing.

You can use the M116 command after running G29 to wait until temperatures have been reached.

Wanted to update this post because i have solved my issue.

I did design and print a new extruder bracket which brought the inductive probe and nozzle closer together, and brought everything closer to the X axis rails. It didn't make much difference.

I found that the probe points on my heatbed (Mk42 from Orballo printing) didn't actually seem to be dead centered in the marked positions on the PCB heatbed, and also suspected that my Amazon probe might not be all that good.

The solution?

Buy the IR probe by DC42

Design a neat bracket for the sensor that sits nicely alongside the heaterblock (tested positions until the heat no longer softened a PLA bracket, then printed it in XT-CF20)

Remove my PEI print surface clamp on a polypropylene build surface.

Quick and easy setup and calibration following the online guides

And the result is absolutely beautiful first layers across the entire print area!

I normally print with 0.4mm retraction on small prints and get great results. I tried no retraction to try to solve this problem.

I switched to a default Cura profile today and my issue entirely went away, haven't gone through and figured out which setting was causing the problem yet though.

As an update I installed the very low inductance motors on X and Y axis of my P3 steel. They are great! Sensorless homing was easy to tune and thanks to the flattest torque/speed curve I've ever seen on any stepper motor I'm able to achieve the 200mm/s for travel moves despite my IGUS RJUM bushings on IGUS rails having rather a lot of friction because of poor parallelism of the rails on the laser cut frame.

I'm running the motors at 2.1A, they barely get warm and I have good cooling on the underside of the Duet 2.

I think I will replace the igus setup with some quality LM8UU bearings and smooth rods though and save the polymer set up for a more tightly toleranced
frame build.

@droftarts I hadn't thought of just turning off mesh bed compensation... there was me just printing in the middle strip of my bed!

I swapped the bearings out for some with a better fit just by rooting through by bag of spares to find the best ones and greatly improved the issue. Currently designing a new bracket for my Titan Aero to get the Z probe as close to 0 X offset as i can get.