Just a short update from my side about the Bigtree filament sensor.... It works as intended now!

My settings are M591 D0 P7 C"e0stop" L7 R75:125 E22 S1

The readings are usually from 93 to 108%, but I keep it on the safe side with the 75/125 % min/max settings.

It already saved one print....

Hope it helps.

Hi guys,

I didn't have time to go through the whole thread, I just read parts of it, but since my friend @arhi mentioned my experience, I just wanted to confirm it.

I've been printing a lot of different PLA / PET-G brands with the original Mosquito and it has been performing like a champ - I did not have a single problem with it. Before that I was using an MK11 Microswiss all-metal hotend and it was honestly a pain. When it was working- it was performing ok, but when you want to swap a nozzle for example - that is when the nightmare starts - it was a lottery if it would clog or not and cleaning the whole system was painful.

With Mosquito, swapping nozzles is a breeze and I do it every other day now, to switch between detailed and big prints. I was "expecting" it to fail at some point, since there were some prints that were 24+hour long - but it did not. The only "issue" I've had is that when printing with a 0.8 nozzle with high layers - you have to lower the speed to 30mm/sec if you want to avoid underextrusion, but that is understandable, and you have the MAGNUM version if you want to go faster with bigger nozzles.

Anyway, if you can afford the Mosquito - I would say go for it. I will be upgrading to the V2 mosquito magnum in the following days for sure.

Hope it helps.

I've designed a case for Duet 2 + Rpi + 7" screen + 2x SSR's for custom dual zone bed heater. Here is how it looks like

@Popstar
No additional electronics is needed. It works as is - without any problems - just make sure you get the pinout right and put this line to configure the sensor :

M591 D0 P7 C"^e0stop" L7 R50:250 E22 S1 ;pulse, disabled, 7 mm/pulse, measure every 22 sec, minimum 50 maximum 250

Also it would be wise to disassemble the sensor and "squeeze" the spring a little bit, to make the filament go through more easily, since by default the spring is too strong and puts a lot of resistance to the filament flow....

@zapta

Thanks for the answer.
I've tried it yesterday - but it seems that Duet is not recording any data from the sensor.

I configured the sensor as following, just to log data when printing :

M591 D0 P7 C"^e0stop" L0.07853981634 R90:110 E3 S0

but it did not receive any data.

Any ideas on what I can try is highly appreciated.

Thanks again

@Veti Yup, as Arhi said - if your fans are rated the same voltage as your VIN run them in parallel. If they are half your voltage, run them in series - and you might want to put a zener diode on each end of the series just to protect the fans. That's how I am using these two beefy 12v blowers on a 24v VIN

Hi guys,

I am having a weird problem with setting the z-offset for BLTOUCH (DUET 2 ethernet, RR 3.1.1).

My default z-offset for bltouch in this setup was 1.2mm (y offset is 0, x offset is -20) and I started with that.

But no matter what value I set for the Z-offset, the Height map is shown below the the X,Y,Z grid (see the picture below) and I when I do the G29 mesh calibration it shows the warning that there is a substantial Z-offset.

I've tried calibrating the trigger height using the instructions here, but I am still having the same problem.

When I try the G0Z0 at the homing position - z goes to the proper height I set for printing.
But when I start the print it usually starts way too high.
I tried both lowering and raising the Z-offset but nothing seems to solve it.

I also have dual-z leadscrews with dual motors - set to do true bed leveling for the x-axis.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Here are the config.g, home.g and bed.g attached

config.ghomez.g homey.g homex.g homeall.g bed.g

@JoergS5 Thanks for your time man, I really appreciate it.

Here is the image of the mesh :

Not much was changed, I added a laser filament monitor (but that shouldn't be a problem) and also added an additional 40mm fan to cool the extruder since the stepper motor is encapsulated in the carriage so I was afraid it may be overheating.

As for the config.g the only I was mainly changing is the z-offset since I cannot seem to get the first layer at the correct height. One thing that is really bothering me is that G32 (true bed leveling) is doing adjustments each time I run it... even when the printer was not turned off.

Another thing I have tried is the z-probe repeatability macro and the deviation from the mean last time was 0.005, so it is working. I also set the following line for thr Bltouch :

M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F300 T6000 A4 S.0.03

Images of the printer:

Hi guys,

I am experiencing a weird problem.

Z-Babystepping is not working at all once the print starts - neither from the Paneldue screen - nor DWC.
I am running the latest firmware for both.

When the printer is in idle (not printing) - z stepping is working normally both + and -, but when the print starts it stops responding altogether.
M290 command also does not give any info while printing.
I always put 3 wide skirt circles before the print just so I can make sure the the z-height is right and to prime the nozzle properly - but if it starts wrong, I cannot adjust it with babysteps - and that is something I was so used to on my previous setup.

I have tried both + and - even 3mm just to see if anything will change over the course of printing, but it does not.

I have also set the software limit switch of Z to -3 so I can go below Z0, but nothing I do can make the babystepping work once the print starts.
It's weird because, as I said - in idle it works as expected.

Any ideas?

Please find my config.g attachedconfig.g

I can confirm that reinstalling the firmware solves the problem.

@phaedrux
UPDATE :

Your suggestion of replacing M226 with M600 manually in gcode - actually worked!

The printer paused correctly, inserted the nuts and resumed the print....

Guess this is a workaround for now, until I figure out why M226 is not working.

Thanks again!

@phaedrux

Of course, here is an example attached.

The M226 should happen before the Layer 22 starts printing.

ANTI Z-WOBBLE BOTTOM - V01.gcode

@phaedrux

The print does not pause, it continues printing past the M226 command.

But when I hit "pause" on PanelDue it does indeed pause the print, but gives me a message that the printer is already in the pause state.

I do have the resume button, and it works. The only problem is that I cannot pause it automatically via Gcode, only via the PanelDue.

@phaedrux

Thanks for the answer!

I use the "Pause at height" postprocess script in Cura 5.0.1, and it defaults to M226 (don't see any way how to change it).

I can manually edit GCODE to replace M226 to M600, but M226 used to work great, and as far as I can see the only difference is that M600 prefers "filament-change.g" to "pause.g", if it exists?

Maybe I'm doing something wrong.... I switched to Cura relatively recently (from IdeaMaker), when Cura 5 came out, so I am using pause from cura for the first time actually....

Hi guys,

Recently I updated from 3.1.1 to 3.4.1., and PanelDue V3 (7") to 3.4.1

Often I need to put M226 before a layer in GCODE to pause the print, so I can insert metal nuts or magnets into prints and then resume printing over them.

But unfortunately now the printer just continues printing after that line.

When I click on the pause on the PanelDue it pauses the print, but says - the printer is already in the pause state (eventhough it's still printing).

My pause.g is still from 3.1.1 - here it is :

; pause.g
; called when a print from SD card is paused
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.1 on Sun May 31 2020 19:03:43 GMT+0200 (Central European Summer Time)
M83 ; relative extruder moves
G1 E-10 F3600 ; retract 10mm of filament
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F360 ; lift Z by 5mm
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; go to X=0 Y=0

If anyone has an idea how to solve it, please help.

Thanks

@norder
Hi my friend.

Thanks so much for the detailed answer.
Same situation here, hahaaha! I ordered two LIS3DSH from ebay - got two LIS3DH..... obviously they don't have LIS3DSH at all, they are just claiming they do. I asked some sellers on Aliexpress claiming to sell LIS3DSH - but none of them actually do, it's all LIS3DH.

My first try was going to be the flat cable with the IDC - 10 pin connector on the DUET side and 2.54 mm- 10pin connector on the accelerometer side, but trying to keep the "CS" wire away from the others.... That is the easiest to try out. But if that does not work, I will go the USB 3.0 cable route.....

Thanks again!

Hello,

I just received my accelerometers and had the exact same idea, so I wanted to check if you (or anyone else) tried this?

Soldering usb 3.0 connectors to both ends (maybe even usb-c female) and using a standard USB 3.0 cable (or usb-c cable) seems like a very convenient idea, but before going into too much trouble of doing everything, I just wanted to check if anyone tried it. It would be quite a waste of time to do all that if it does not work.

Any input appreciated.

thanks!

Mine worked well for a while and then started to give false warnings and stops (under extrusion), and now it does not work at all. I guess that maybe the spring holding the wheel got loose and it's not rotating enough while the filament is passing, but haven't opened it yet to check....

@jay_s_uk said in E3D Super Whopper stepper motor behaving strange on DUET 2:

the E3D motors tend to have different wiring going into the motor.
Are you using the cable supplied with it or the one from your original motor?

Hi Jay,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the wiring is different - I adjusted my pinout accordingly. I have a custom made printer, so my cabling is also custom - I adjusted the pins on the connector to match the E3D pinout. The motor is working and the direction is correct - but the noises it produces sound like trouble.

I've had a curious issue with the E3D Super Whopper motor so I thought I might share it to see if anyone else had a similar experience.

First I got one brand new (never used) from my friend @arhi and tried to replace my Y bed stepper just to see how it would perform. I set the steps properly (it's a 1.8-degree stepper, unlike other E3D steppers) and the current to around 1.8amps (it's rated 2amps). The belt was tensioned about the same as my previous generic stepper and the size was the same.

When I fired it up - the stepper was producing strange grinding-like noise as if something was mechanically wrong... the position, the belts and everything else was exactly the same as my previous stepper which worked flawlessly. I checked everything twice and it was still grinding like hell... At that point I gave up and returned the stepper to my friend - and he (generously) gave me another one - also brand new, exactly the same as this one, as I thought that maybe the first one was bad.

Flash forward a couple of months - I had to replace my X stepper a few days ago, since it failed (miraculously - the shaft got broken), so I thought to give the new Super Whopper one more try. And the noises I experienced with the first one were still there! Much less than on the Y axis, but still disturbing (like heavy vibrations). It works but it's disturbing and it is heating up very much even set to 1.6amps.

Just to clear things up - a generic Chinese stepper I was using at exactly the same position and setting with exactly the same (normal) belt tension was working flawlessly for a long time. everything is aligned properly, no obvious mechanical problem.

Does anyone maybe have any ideas what might be the culprit of it?