@phaedrux
UPDATE :
Your suggestion of replacing M226 with M600 manually in gcode - actually worked! 
The printer paused correctly, inserted the nuts and resumed the print....
Guess this is a workaround for now, until I figure out why M226 is not working.
Thanks again!
Of course, here is an example attached.
The M226 should happen before the Layer 22 starts printing.
The print does not pause, it continues printing past the M226 command.
But when I hit "pause" on PanelDue it does indeed pause the print, but gives me a message that the printer is already in the pause state.
I do have the resume button, and it works. The only problem is that I cannot pause it automatically via Gcode, only via the PanelDue.
Thanks for the answer!
I use the "Pause at height" postprocess script in Cura 5.0.1, and it defaults to M226 (don't see any way how to change it).
I can manually edit GCODE to replace M226 to M600, but M226 used to work great, and as far as I can see the only difference is that M600 prefers "filament-change.g" to "pause.g", if it exists?
Maybe I'm doing something wrong.... I switched to Cura relatively recently (from IdeaMaker), when Cura 5 came out, so I am using pause from cura for the first time actually....
Hi guys,
Recently I updated from 3.1.1 to 3.4.1., and PanelDue V3 (7") to 3.4.1
Often I need to put M226 before a layer in GCODE to pause the print, so I can insert metal nuts or magnets into prints and then resume printing over them.
But unfortunately now the printer just continues printing after that line.
When I click on the pause on the PanelDue it pauses the print, but says - the printer is already in the pause state (eventhough it's still printing).
My pause.g is still from 3.1.1 - here it is :
; pause.g
; called when a print from SD card is paused
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.1 on Sun May 31 2020 19:03:43 GMT+0200 (Central European Summer Time)
M83 ; relative extruder moves
G1 E-10 F3600 ; retract 10mm of filament
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F360 ; lift Z by 5mm
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; go to X=0 Y=0
If anyone has an idea how to solve it, please help.
Thanks
@norder
Hi my friend.
Thanks so much for the detailed answer.
Same situation here, hahaaha! I ordered two LIS3DSH from ebay - got two LIS3DH..... obviously they don't have LIS3DSH at all, they are just claiming they do. I asked some sellers on Aliexpress claiming to sell LIS3DSH - but none of them actually do, it's all LIS3DH.
My first try was going to be the flat cable with the IDC - 10 pin connector on the DUET side and 2.54 mm- 10pin connector on the accelerometer side, but trying to keep the "CS" wire away from the others.... That is the easiest to try out. But if that does not work, I will go the USB 3.0 cable route.....
Thanks again!
Hello,
I just received my accelerometers and had the exact same idea, so I wanted to check if you (or anyone else) tried this?
Soldering usb 3.0 connectors to both ends (maybe even usb-c female) and using a standard USB 3.0 cable (or usb-c cable) seems like a very convenient idea, but before going into too much trouble of doing everything, I just wanted to check if anyone tried it. It would be quite a waste of time to do all that if it does not work.
Any input appreciated.
thanks!
Mine worked well for a while and then started to give false warnings and stops (under extrusion), and now it does not work at all. I guess that maybe the spring holding the wheel got loose and it's not rotating enough while the filament is passing, but haven't opened it yet to check....
@jay_s_uk said in E3D Super Whopper stepper motor behaving strange on DUET 2:
the E3D motors tend to have different wiring going into the motor.
Are you using the cable supplied with it or the one from your original motor?
Hi Jay,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the wiring is different - I adjusted my pinout accordingly. I have a custom made printer, so my cabling is also custom - I adjusted the pins on the connector to match the E3D pinout. The motor is working and the direction is correct - but the noises it produces sound like trouble.
I've had a curious issue with the E3D Super Whopper motor so I thought I might share it to see if anyone else had a similar experience.
First I got one brand new (never used) from my friend @arhi and tried to replace my Y bed stepper just to see how it would perform. I set the steps properly (it's a 1.8-degree stepper, unlike other E3D steppers) and the current to around 1.8amps (it's rated 2amps). The belt was tensioned about the same as my previous generic stepper and the size was the same.
When I fired it up - the stepper was producing strange grinding-like noise as if something was mechanically wrong... the position, the belts and everything else was exactly the same as my previous stepper which worked flawlessly. I checked everything twice and it was still grinding like hell... At that point I gave up and returned the stepper to my friend - and he (generously) gave me another one - also brand new, exactly the same as this one, as I thought that maybe the first one was bad.
Flash forward a couple of months - I had to replace my X stepper a few days ago, since it failed (miraculously - the shaft got broken), so I thought to give the new Super Whopper one more try. And the noises I experienced with the first one were still there! Much less than on the Y axis, but still disturbing (like heavy vibrations). It works but it's disturbing and it is heating up very much even set to 1.6amps.
Just to clear things up - a generic Chinese stepper I was using at exactly the same position and setting with exactly the same (normal) belt tension was working flawlessly for a long time. everything is aligned properly, no obvious mechanical problem.
Does anyone maybe have any ideas what might be the culprit of it?
@CaLviNx Yes, I am completely aware of that principle and my first thought was exactly what you are talking about, but in practice making a floating nut in a dual z-axis setup like mine (the z axis is holding the x-axis bar) and a height of 500mm that made more problems than solve. When the leadscrews are very long (like mine - almost 600mm) and you do not align them perfectly - the nut and/or screw tend to "dance" a bit which translates into visible z print artifacts. Using a springy motor coupler with a small ball bearing inside) helped a little bit with the constraint problems. When I was talking about aligning - I was thinking more about aligning the linear rails - since I have 4 of them for Z - 2 for each side od the Z axis, and aligning 4 linear rails to do a constrained up/down motion together is a pain. Also it's much more difficult when the lead on the leadscrew is 2mm instead of 8mm which is more common on printers since it's much more sensitive to misalignment.
@arhi 10x2 ACME leadscrews I got were very straight and solved my heavy dual z-axis falling problem - but they are a pain to tune ideally, especially with dual linear rails on each side.... everything needs to be aligned within a fraction of a mm or you'll have rail grinding and artifacts in the print.... but if you do it properly it solves most of the problems.
I've designed a case for Duet 2 + Rpi + 7" screen + 2x SSR's for custom dual zone bed heater. Here is how it looks like
@Veti Yup, as Arhi said - if your fans are rated the same voltage as your VIN run them in parallel. If they are half your voltage, run them in series - and you might want to put a zener diode on each end of the series just to protect the fans. That's how I am using these two beefy 12v blowers on a 24v VIN
@Popstar
No additional electronics is needed. It works as is - without any problems - just make sure you get the pinout right and put this line to configure the sensor :
M591 D0 P7 C"^e0stop" L7 R50:250 E22 S1 ;pulse, disabled, 7 mm/pulse, measure every 22 sec, minimum 50 maximum 250
Also it would be wise to disassemble the sensor and "squeeze" the spring a little bit, to make the filament go through more easily, since by default the spring is too strong and puts a lot of resistance to the filament flow....
Great, thanks!
I completely forgot there is a resume.g.
Hi guys,
I often use the M226 command in the GCODE to pause the print after a certain layer and insert metallic parts such as nuts and magnets into a print and then resume the print via the PanelDue resume button.
This works great except for one thing - every time I resume the print head comes back into position and then extrudes a pile of plastic on my print (I guess this is the restart filament amount) and then resumes the print normally. This is a problem since with my hotend (Mosquito) I do not need the restart amount and it just messes up the print potentially making the print head hit that big chunk thereby ruining the print.
Is there a command or setting where I can turn off this "resume filament extrusion amount" or whatever it is called.
Thanks a lot in advance.
I've been experimenting with DAA and it has proven to be quite useful and nice when you are using constant speed profiles for printing. The problem is when you often change the speed of your profiles - you need to re-calibrate the DAA and change the parameters for that speed. I don't know if there can be a way to automatically compensate for those speed changes once the inital parameter is set (like detecting the speed in the gcode and compensating for the DAA value on the firmware level.) I've also kind of noticed that once you cancel out the base low frequency - the harmonics (higher frequency vibrations) also tend to get much smoother.
Thanks for all the info guys. It's been hectic with work the past couple of days, so I could not be very active on this front. I will try out the solutions suggested here and let you know the results....
@sungod3k
Thanks for you reply. I've set up the laser to work with the Heater3 pin on the expansion header. I'll check out jtech photonics. There are many paid and free options for the laser engraving/cutting software, but I wanted to start from something that other users may have found works well, just to save some time...
@dc42 Thanks for the reply and for your time. I've already read that in the previous threads about the lasers and I set it up. My question was more directed towards particular software solutions that are tried out and proven to work well with the Duet, so I can start from there.
Hi guys,
I have just finished setting up the laser head on my Duet 2 ethernet based 3D printer. I used a Chinese 15W diode laser and with this particular one - it works without the 74HCT02D described on the Duet Laser page (it works with 3.3V PWM and non-inverted signal).
That gets me to my question - I've gone through all the threads mentioning the laser software to be used with Duet but I could not find a definitive answer to what works well and how to set it up - so if anyone of you has recommendations and/or instructions on how to set up the laser cutting/engraving software - it would be highly appreciated.
Thanks!
Just a short update from my side about the Bigtree filament sensor.... It works as intended now!
My settings are M591 D0 P7 C"e0stop" L7 R75:125 E22 S1
The readings are usually from 93 to 108%, but I keep it on the safe side with the 75/125 % min/max settings.
It already saved one print....
Hope it helps.
I've been fiddling with the Bigtreetech pulse filament sensor during my last print and I've noticed that when I change the M591 settings while printing - it stops receiving data. I changed the the lenght to 7mm, and tried the S:15 and S;22, but it does not receive any data. Maybe it needs to be changed before the print?
Hi guys,
I didn't have time to go through the whole thread, I just read parts of it, but since my friend @arhi mentioned my experience, I just wanted to confirm it.
I've been printing a lot of different PLA / PET-G brands with the original Mosquito and it has been performing like a champ - I did not have a single problem with it. Before that I was using an MK11 Microswiss all-metal hotend and it was honestly a pain. When it was working- it was performing ok, but when you want to swap a nozzle for example - that is when the nightmare starts - it was a lottery if it would clog or not and cleaning the whole system was painful.
With Mosquito, swapping nozzles is a breeze and I do it every other day now, to switch between detailed and big prints. I was "expecting" it to fail at some point, since there were some prints that were 24+hour long - but it did not. The only "issue" I've had is that when printing with a 0.8 nozzle with high layers - you have to lower the speed to 30mm/sec if you want to avoid underextrusion, but that is understandable, and you have the MAGNUM version if you want to go faster with bigger nozzles.
Anyway, if you can afford the Mosquito - I would say go for it. I will be upgrading to the V2 mosquito magnum in the following days for sure.
Hope it helps.