@Phaedrux has done us all a great service by posting and sharing tuning macros for us Duet users.

I thoroughly encourage every user here to download them and get to know them.

These have become the backbone of my calibration over the last 3 weeks on my frankenstein'd Creality printers. In those 3 weeks I resin printed the Hydra Fan system (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062242), converted my CR10 to a Microswiss direct drive, and my Ender 5 to a Bondtech direct drive.

With all these changes I had a lot of tweaking and tuning to do. As we all know, 3D printing is a dark art. Many times what you want your printer to do...is not what it decides to do.

But these tuning macros are superb in every way. Not only have they allowed me a better understanding of what Acceleration, Jerk, and PA do, and have giving me better understanding as to how they interact with each other.

Sure, you can punch in g-code command after command. But these macros make it feel like you have a tuning console to work from.

So again, do yourself a favor and get these on your machines if you haven't done it already. And send a big thanks to @Phaedrux while you are at it.

Hi everyone,

I’ve just started learning Reprap firmware and Duet architecture this week. Have some simple printers that I am working on starting a home business with and, with the help of Ali and digitmakers.ca, got turned onto Duet3D.

My printers are my 1.5 year old Creality CR10S, and my two recently purchased Creality Ender5Pro and Plus.

In the Late fall of 2019 I bought an MKS board and touch screen. Never got it installed. Was getting tired of Marlin. So I bought a Duet 2 Wifi. Christmas came around and I never actually installed it on its intended printer, the CR10S.

Well, this week I finally did. Learned my way through all the setup and software. Once you get to know the basics of the firmware, and the web control, it makes Marlin look like an Abacus.

So I picked two Duet Maestros for my two ender based printers.

Halfway through the E5Pro, and will get to the Plus this weekend.

So I just wanted to say hello, and I look forward to discovering what firmware and hardware can do.

Thanks,
Ryan

I wanted to give a special thanks to @Phaedrux and Ali from Digitmakers.ca in Toronto.

I had a Duet 2 Wifi go bad on me this week, fried bed heater connector. I contacted Ali and he provided me with a warranty link. I started a thread as well as I had heard that is required.

Long story short, in less than 36 hours I had a replacement board and a few hours later my printer was back up and running.

It was very important to me to have such amazing service as I have started a small home business with my 3D printer lineup.

I put out a cheesy video on Facebook tonight and made sure anybody watching knew my printers ran on Duet 3D boards.

https://www.facebook.com/3DimensionGames/videos/326856824984504

Thanks for all the replies guys. Between the responses here, and the ones I got today from other forums and direct messages, 90% of average printer users do not have a clue what speed they are actually printing at.

The problem lies in how Cura displays its speed settings and how the average hobby printer user views this information. So many people are simply selecting a profile like "fine", selecting a speed of 60mms, and letting it go. I kindly prompted some of the people I spoke to what their acceleration and jerk settings were, and most of them didn't know. They are just using the stock printer, with preset cura profile at 60mms.

Earlier this year I started using Simplify3D and I was shocked at how much shorter print time a lot of my prints were compared to my profile in Cura. This led me to finding all the hidden speed settings.

Now, I am not knocking any of these people and how they use the printer. I'm glad to see people enjoying the hobby. If a person wants to just 'hit print", thats great. If someone else wants to dissect the inner workings, equally great.

The side effect of this problem is that when one person sees a great print posted on line, especially on the more average user forums like Reddit, many people will ask for their settings such as speed. The answer comes back, 60mms, for example. But that does not mean that three different machines will perform the same at 60mms.

I was a bit taken aback when I learned how many people thought 60mms was for every aspect of the print and had no clue how many hidden speed settings their were in cura, and how slow they were. On top of that, because many of them didn't know what their accel and jerk settings were, they didn't know how each would affect speed.

DWC gives us the benefit of seeing relatively instantaneous feedback on our speed. But the typical stock Creality printer gives none of that at all. Imagine driving a car without a speedometer. That is how most printers are.

Again, how each person uses their printer is fine. I'm more concerned with how information is shared. I think a lot of printing problems stem from misguided sharing of settings.

Hey all,

Yesterday I decided to take, oh I don't know 5 hours, and tune my Ender 5. This printer has a Duet Maestro, Bondtech BMG bowden setup, microswiss hot end and 0.4mm nozzle. All primary inital calibrations have been completed.

My bowden tube for this setup is 510mm, so slightly on the long side. I had been using a PA of S0.14 for the past while with decent results, but not perfect. Certain aspects of prints were beautiful while others were not.

I started using a script I found here:
PA script

And I ran this with from S0.0 to S1.0. Thought the results were inconsistent, and the only thing I took away was the S0.0 to S0.2 were meh, S0.5 and S1.0 seem to give the best results. So as you can see, inconsistent.

Then I moved over to another test I really like prior:
Bowden Only

As I was browsing the many, many threads on PA, I stumbled along a two year old post from @Phaedrux stating a possible connections between PA and Jerk. But I think acceleration is tied into a trio with PA and Jerk. Here are my findings.

So what I did was started printing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4175047

PA set to S0.5, print accel M204 P1000, and jerk set to M566 X1200 Y1200. Also E Jerk and accel are set high enough as to not affect movement.

Results were ok. But I wanted to see what would happen when I adjusted each of the above setting individually to see how they would react to the print. I started by leaving PA alone, set at S0.5 and focusing on accel and jerk.

Tuning jerk lower to something like 10 M566 X600 Y600 I found caused problems with the connection of infill lines to wall lines. Then I set it to 40 M566 X2400 Y2400 and this was two violent for small movements. So I set it back to 10.

Then I decreased my print accel to M204 P500 and infill extrusion improved but caused problems at the start of new lines. Basically under extrustions.

So then I started treating Accel and Jerk like knobs I could turn up and down. And my best results were with a lower acceleration and high jerk.

Now your acceleration cant be too low or your prints will take forever because your print head takes too long to get up to speed. But it does need to be lower to allow small aspects of your print to slow down. I now have jerk set to 30. With jerk set to 40, the printing movements of long lines were fine, but short infill lines were way too violent. Turning it down below my initial setting of 20 caused it to slow at line endings too much. So I set it 30 M566 X1800 Y1800 and there were no issues with directional changes and blobs, as well as not being too violent.

So my final settings are
M572 D0 S0.5
M204 P500
M566 X1800 Y1800

With accel tuned lower, it slows down short portions of your print so that they don't get herky jerky by your higher jerk. And PA keeps things in check by doing a decent job of keeping a consistent pressure in the nozzle.

Truth be told, I don't know how correct any of my methodology is, so I would love to hear from everyone what their thoughts are. I will be trying this same tuning method on my CR10 today, and later my Ender 5 Plus.

@ChrisP said in Three printers, poor consistency, questions:

Don't forget though that the faster you print, the faster you'll need to get energy into the filament so at some point you'll have to decide whether you want to find the max VFR for your standard temperature or whether you're wanting to explore increasing temperatures to push the VRF up. Based on what you've said so far, I'd probably save increasing temps for another day once you have some nicely tuned profiles.

I'll reply to the sections before this in another post as the VRF aspect is important for the speed I am trying to determine I can print at.

Since I wasn't able to find any details beyond the "skipping" method, and figured I'd look at it and see how it can be modified to assist with bowden tube setups.

So the dozuki ender 3 guide suggests 50mm and increasing by 1mm/s. I'm assuming its being done with a 0.4 nozzle, and I'm using a 0.6 nozzle. But I did two things different.
One, I doubled the length in the guide. So instead of 50mm followed by 100mm. I started with 100mm, and verified with 200mm. The extra constant length over 50 gives more time for pressure to build up.

And two, I paid close attention to the bowden tube and its movements. Especially when the extrusion finishes. Anything more than slight flex, I lowered my feed rate.

1. heat nozzle to 220c
2. turn on part cooling fan to 20% (I may change this after some test prints)
3. extrude 100mm @5mm
4. increase by 1mm/s until poor bowden movement or skipping
   (both which seemed to happen at 10mm/s)
5. Decreased to 9mm/s, extrude 100, no skipping, but the flex was still there
6. Double to extrude to 200mm @ 9mm/s (poor flex and skip)
7. Stayed with 200mm but dropped to 8mm/s, nominal flex and no skipping

So based on that, I am going to use 8mm/s as the feed rate.

Max Flow Rate = Max Input Feed rate * pi * (Filament Diameter/2)2

MFR = 8mm/s * pi * (1.72/2)2 (I used 1.72 as I often get that result in filament measurement)

MFR = 18.5 or 18.

I'm going to test this and see how things change.

@zapta

Thanks for your input.

@bot said in Volumetric calibration question:

Make sure you keep the temperature high enough to maintain good adhesion of extrusion. There is a wide range of acceptable temperatures for some materials, but the faster you print, the higher you need the nozzle temp so that the heat can "soak" into the middle of the filament in the small amount of time it is exposed to the heat zone.

This was great advice. At the given 30mm/s test speed, I dialed in and 100% flow rate was perfect. But I rarely look to print that slow. So I upped the speed to 45mm/s and had to boost the temperature (215 to 220) to keep the extrustion adhering properly. Then 60mm/s, 220 to 230, but also had to turn the blower fan down from 20% to 15%, 66mm/s, I had to go to 235.

Your advice was so helpful to keep in mind while running this test.

I just finished my conversion of the my CR10S and my Ender 5 Plus to using separate steppers. Through my learning, you only need to add and U* parameters in the descriptions of your steppers (ei; jerk, accel, steps etc).

In all other instances (such as z probe offset), you simply need to apply a Z* parameter.

It sounds like what I have been working through for the past few days where my z-offset keeps changing.

As @Phaedrux said, use the probe. My process is very similar to yours.

1. home all axis

2. M564 S1 to make sure virtual endstops enabled so you can't go below 0 for Z

3. raise 8mm

4. probe bed

5. repeat 3 and 4 and review Z offset.

6. once I am locked in with my z offset, I reboot, home and check with paper.

But I was doing this over and over and over, daily. But this I learned about operating the dual z axis with separate steppers, and using G32 to align the leadscrews Even though dual z screws is supposed to help with keeping your gantry level, it never does.

I I made the need hardware changes and firmware changes, and can include G32 in my routine. I have found today on my CR10S I don't have to adjust my z-offset. Its rock solid.

I will also add that in all this change, I also positioned my probe (BL Touch as well) to be closer to the nozzle. So my z offset is much smaller.

So I would try

@shatty

I'm printing on my E5+ right now. Duet 2 Wifi, running perfectly. Send me your config G and I will look at it.

Hey everyone, Im looking for ideas for for mounting my 1LC and Hemera Revo hot end. I will be designing a bracket/mount in fusion360 to attached to a 2020 + MGN9 linear rail as my X-Axis. But that is for me to figure out.

I'd really just like to see some pictures of the 1LC mounted, wired, you know...the sexy stuff. Haha.

I recently purchased a 1LC board from my local dealer (digitmakers in Toronto).

The board I was provided was the 1.0 board.

I've heard that the 1.1 board is needed to utilize an accelerometer. If true, Should I be asking for them to replace it with the 1.1 board?

@dc42

When I get back to my office later today I may have some further questions to grow my knowledge of proper setting of my config.g as I was experiencing skipped steps.

@nurgelrot

Thanks so much. It is as quiet as I could ever imaging. Incredible. Now I just need to tune it.

So I had a Duet Wifi board die on me. Admittedly it was a clone (I bought two for backups in case something happened to my genuine boards). Well, clones suck. They work temporarily, but suck in the long run.

So when it died, I decided to buy two Duet 3 Mini 5+ as I like the price by comparison to the Duet 2 Wifi and I wanted to be up to date.

I am proud that I was able to port my machine over to the Duet 3 firmware and new board without having to rely on this forum. I took my time and read over all the instructions and data. Took me a few days to learn the ins and outs of Duet 3 firmware, I am up and running, and all is good except one thing....noise. The D3M5+ is quite a bit noisier than either my older genuines D2Wifi, or its clone.

Is there something I should be adding to my Config.g to quiet it down?

; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Sun Jul 11 2021 21:02:44 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)

; General preferences
G90                                                ; send absolute coordinates...
M83                                                ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Mr. Orange"                                 ; set printer name
H564 H0


; NETWORK
M552 S1                                           ; enable network
M586 P0 S1                               		  ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0                               		  ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0							     		  ; disable telnet


; Drives
M569 P0.0 S0                                      ; physical drive 0.0 goes Forward
M569 P0.1 S0                                      ; physical drive 0.1 goes forwards
M569 P0.2 S1                                      ; physical drive 0.2 goes backwards
M569 P0.3 S1									  ; physical drive 0.3 goes backwards
M569 P0.4 S1                                      ; physical drive 0.4 goes backwards
M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:0.4 E0.3                      ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 U16 E16 I1						  ; configure microstepping with interpolation


; Estep
M92 X79.88 Y79.77 Z399.95 U399.95 E139.03       ; set steps per mm


; Movement Settings
M566 X600 Y600 Z60 U60 E2000                    ; Jerk mm/min
M203 X30000 Y30000 Z600 U600 E15000               ; Max Speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000 Y3000 Z240 U240 E3000                  ; Max Accell (mm/s^2)
M204 P5000 T3000                                  ; print and travel accellerations
m593 F50										  ; dynamic accelleration @ 50Hz
M906 X1000 Y1400 Z1000 U1000 E1000 I80            ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                           ; Set idle timeout
                                            

; AXIS LIMITS
M208 X0 Y0 Z-1 S1                                 ; set axis minima
M208 X300 Y300 Z400 S0                   		  ; set axis maxima


; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"io5.in"                               ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin !io5.in
M574 Y1 S1 P"io6.in"                               ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Y via pin !io6.in
M574 Z0 S2


; Z-Probe
M950 S0 C"io3.out"                                 ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"^io3.in" H4 F600 T12000 A3 S0.03 B0 R0   ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P25 X0.7 Y-35.6 Z1.6                          ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X20:270 S50 Y30:270 S60	                   ; define mesh grid
M376 H3.56				   						   ; define compensation taper


; Heaters
M308 S0 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4092       ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp0
M950 H0 C"out0" T0                                 ; create bed heater output on out0 and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 A111 C921.1 D0.4 V13.1 B0 S1	           ;hotbed pid tuned for 55d
M140 H0                                            ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120                                       ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"temp1" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4092       ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp1
M950 H1 C"out1" T1                                 ; create nozzle heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 A497.7 C148.2 D5.6 V13.3 B0				   ; PID tuning for hotend at 220
M143 H1 S280                                       ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

   


; Fans
M950 F0 C"out5" Q500                               ; create Heat Sink fan 0 on pin out5 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S1 H1 T30                                  ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned on
M950 F1 C"out3" Q500                               ; create fan 1 on pin out3 and set its frequency
M106 P1 C"PartCool" S0 H-1                         ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned 0ff
M950 F2 C"out4" Q500                               ; create fan 2 on pin out4 and set its frequency
M106 P2 C"PartCool" S0 H-1                         ; set fan 2 value. Thermostatic control is turned off




; Tools
M563 P0 S"Hotend" D0 H1 F1:2                       ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                                    ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0                                       ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Custom settings are not defined
M671 X-20:320 Y150:150 S0.5
M572 D0 S0.05
M564 H0

; Miscellaneous
M501                                               ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory
M911 S10 R11 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss


undefined

@Phaedrux @o_lampe @droftarts @Hornetrider @engikeneer @deckingman

I have fixed my problem. I took apart the printer last weekend and re-assembled it. Moving some of the extrusions around (like rotating your tires) and re-squared everything up. Found one spot that seemed a but off so I positioned it with a small gap and tightened things up with a metal 90 degree corner.

I also noticed that my bed.g file looked like this

M561 				; clear any bed transform
G29 S2				; Clear bed height map
; Probe 2-points
M401 				; Deploy probe - deployprobe.g
G30 P0 X90 Y115 Z-9999 		; Center Left
G30 P1 X125 Y115 Z-9999 S2 	; Center Right
M402 

But there is only one 7 axis on this printer. So I deleted everything expect the M561 command.

Between those two things, my printing is back to normal. I wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions.

@Phaedrux @o_lampe

deleting the text in the height map did solve the latest issue.

But now I am having problems with the Maestro board connecting to the network. If I turn the unit off, then back on, many times now it won't connect. I have to turn it off, unplug it, plug it back in and turn it on...and even thats 50/50.

All my wifi units work. So Im going to swap the cable, as well as review the access point it is connected to. But I have a pretty extensive knowledge of home networking from my home audio and automation days, and am confident regarding my network.

Like I mentioned, I have a backup Duet 2 Wifi board that I can use if I think something has

@phaedrux
Will do.

@droftarts

; homeall.g
; called to home all axes
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Tue Feb 18 2020 18:08:45 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
G91                     ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F9000        ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-240 Y-240 F3000 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X20 Y20 F3000      ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-240 Y-240 F1000  ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass)
G90                     ; absolute positioning
G1 X110 Y80 F9000 	; go to center of bed  ; go to first bed probe point and home Z
G30                     ; home Z by probing the bed

; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing
G91                   ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F9000            ; lift Z relative to current position
G90                   ; absolute positioning
G29 S1                  ; absolute positioning

@phaedrux

Well, I don't even know where to begin. As I previously posted on Saturday, I had gotten close to fixing my issue with my bed and probing, but was going to walk away for a few days (canadian long weekend).

I've come back to this machine now with a clear mind and a few ideas.

I turn the machine on and warm it up. This machine is using the Duet 2 Maestro, and 2.05 firmware.

I hit the home button:

Print head moves X and Y to their endstops, then to the center of the bed. The BL Touch probe is deployed properly, touches the glass surface twice and reports back the correct z-offset and moves the head up to the expected position:

But as soon as it stops its motion the head position for the Z-axis turns from 11.77 to this:

Now the machine is locked up and I cannot move the head with the DWC controls or macros.

I'm starting to think that the Maestro board is pooched, but I really have no idea. I have a backup Duet 2 Wifi board here that I can replace the Maestro with, but I would rather know for sure.