Posts made by 1ri

@tratoon

Try this too, this thread inspired me when i need it

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/14428/full-shutdown-after-prints

@zapta

hi, i sent my address and t’he amazon code via chat, i think.
I don't know if you received it or not, I don't get along with chats

Via GoogleTranslator

@zapta

Is there any possibility to sign up on the wait list?I like to have one of those analyzer

Thanks

@Szwalkiewicz

greetings
I see that in the M669 command of config.g you only define the kinematics type as corexy (K1) but you do not define the motion matrix.
i use the following command on my corexy printer and it works fine for me
M669 K1 X1: 1 Y1: -1

the console output it gives me is as follows:

M669
Kinematics is CoreXY, matrix:
1.00 1.00 0 0
1.00 -1.00 0 0
0 0 1.00 0
0 0 0 1.00

I hope it serves

The printing time appears in “enventlog.txt” if you have it activated whit M929 P"eventlog.txt" S1

@observatoer
Considering that you have the z-probe fine Tuned and configured. You commented that you have the problem when you do the homing. Is it possible that you do not use the z-probe to set z=0 and that there is this difference of one millimeter between the z-axis sensor and the z-probe?

In my printer, with dual z axis, after home with micros witches every motor, I run a G30 command to set Z=0 with de Z-probe then I run a G32 command.

It works well for me in reprap 3.1 on a duetWifi+Duex

@deckingman

well seen !! I didn’t notice how fast it was going to the axis of the abscissas, the seconds that pass while print

Hi!!

Hope this helps you using RGB leds

@Pertti

See if variations occur when there is a layer change. There are many slicers that in the layer change send the temperature values for the extruders. It seems that the temperature variation seen in the graph is between 140ºC (which are the ones you have defined in the G10 command) and 195ºC which are the ones that Cura must send to each layer change.

it is a very strange graph showing the temperature followed by the second extruder.
The hot bed (blue) is correct and stable as well as the first extruder (red), it is the second extruder (green) which has a very erratic graph. I imagine you made the right tuning using the M303: Run heater tuning command on the second extruder as well

Hi @Pertti !

I use PrusaSlic3r to send only the commands T0, T1, T2....
And in config g I define the active & Standby temperature using de G10 command G10 command to define Active & Standby temperature

I don't know how to work with Cura because I don't use it. In PrusaSlicer, after defining the beaviour of the printer as RepRap, in the Gcode apears T0, T1 .... and the duet adjust the temperatures depending on the parameters you used in the G10 command to define the tool's temperatures.

This works fine for me with different tools.

Hope it helps

@shirnschall
I had a problem similar to yours with one of the corners of the hot bed. In case it works for you or you haven't taken it into account, I had to set the fudge value (F) to 0.8 on the M671 Gcode for it to work properly. In my case my command is: M671 X-81.5: 415 Y100: 100 S2 F0.8

@Nxt-1

good night,

I have this configuration and it works very well.
From top to bottom:
0.2mm PEI
3M
Black barbecue paint (for mini IR) as DC42 says
0.6mm ferric stainless steel

magnet adhesive foil Here from Amazon
3mm aluminum sheet
220v silicone

The result really is very good. I have never moved and withstand temperatures of at least 120ºc. I use the hot bed to cure parts made with SAKATA PLA INGEO 850 in a closed environment. It momentarily loses grip but regains it when it cools. When I'm not printing, I'm not worried about this momentary loss.

@wkellyo

With this in mind, in a configuration like ours with Duet2 + DUEX, only PINs 100-103 are available on the GPIO & I2C connector in the DUEX5, which are not so many.

In RRF3, which will be effective from now on, I use this command to set the PIN in order to be able to use it later with the M42 of the macros.

M950 P0 C "duex.gp1", which may be the value of gp1 to gp3 depending on the GPIO to be used

@wkellyo

for sure,

I attach a file with the .ino I use and a folder with the macros that send the value to pin P100 (GPIO1 on DUEX5) or duex.gp1 for RRF3.
Once the arduino is programmed, it prints the value it receives from the Duet via the serial port by sending the M42 commands to it.
This makes it easier to adjust the values that need to be compared with the Arduino to display each color using the serial monitor.

As you can see, the comments inside the macros and the .ino file are in Catalan, as it is my native language, but Google Translator is quite efficient in Catalan.

best regards

I put the link in my drive because I couldn't upload a zip file. If anyone can guide me in how to do it, I would be very grateful

Zip File

Solved!! Just read this post to see that ZIP files are not supported....

@wkellyo
glad that it served you.

@wkellyo

Given the ease of programming the WS2812b type RGB LEDs in the arduino environment, here's what I've done:

• set an output PIN for use with M42
• Connect this output pin to an analog input pin of the arduino. In my case I use an ESP32 which can bé easily purchased.
• Monitor the input of the arduino to see what values ​​it gives according to the values ​​set on the M42. Depending on whether it is 8 or 32 bits the sampling may be different
• Decide what values ​​I use and why (Warm up, start, print, ....)
• Program the Arduino with the FastLED library that will assign a color / effect according to the value of the input PIN
• Write a macro in the DUET for each output value of the PIN that connects to the Arduino
• Call the Macro in order to provoke the output by the DUET PIN which will be sampled by the Arduino and execute the code to put the LEDS in the color chosen in previous steps.
  I have it that way and set different scenarios for Standby, warming, cooling, calibrating, printing and off. I call macros from confit.g at printer startup or from G-code generated by Slic3r. Alternatively I can enable them from the PanelDue.

Hope it helps as Google Translator helps me

@c310
i use this commands to declare the "virtual" sensors

M308 S20 Y"mcu-temp" A"CPU" ; Defineix sensor S20 com a temperatura de la CPU
M308 S21 Y"drivers" A"Duet_drv" ; Defineix sensor S21 com a temperatura dels drivers de la duet
M308 S22 Y"drivers-duex" A"Duex_drv" ; Defineix sensor S22 com a temperatura dels drivers de la duex5

In this case, sensors 20 to 22 to declare mcu & drivers.
After that, use it as a standard sensor.

Hope it helps you. I'm runing 3.0RC1 on a DuetWifi + Duex5 and there is no issue at all. A little tricky to configure but not impossible, using Reprap config tool as a start point.

@fcwilt

Certainly, the same thing happens to me since I installed the Mac Osx Catalina. Chrome works correctly but Safari loses the connection with the DUET and I have to reload the page in order to get the password correctly. I have the latest version of both firmware and DWC (2.04)
At home I have a WebCam that I view through DWC and I have seen that if I leave the tab of the webcam activated it does not block and can be in the background indefinitely. I think that the video streaming has DWC enabled in Safari

It is not a solution but if you have a webcam, here's a little trick

good night,
I take advantage of google translator services to better express what I want to say.
I've been battling for a long time with print surfaces. From an MK2 base of aluminum with lacquer, borosolate glass with or without lacquer, abs glue or stick.
The first attempt to make a removable base was with a sheet of ferritic steel attached to the base with a series of magnets. On that sheet, not very flexible but enough to remove the pieces, I put an original buildtak sheet. He did not convince me, although at that time it was the best option I tried.
It lasted little and the price, for a non-professional use, was excessive. I started testing Aliexpress printing surfaces. The only advantage was the price. But any error of first layer that lowered the head caused that the sheet was broken when retiring (or to try) the piece.
It must be said that I use DC42 IR Probe to adjust the two Z motors and to level the print surface (G32 and G29). That is why there were errors in the first layers depending on the material / color of the print surface.
Reading David's instructions at miscsolutions I tried to test the PEI sheet that has received such good reviews everywhere. So I bought a kit from Aliexpres and a sheet of magnet from Amazon.

The first thing I tried was the PEI directly on the flexible surface of steel. Too much reflection The IR sensor gave too irregular surfaces and each first layer had to be adjusted by Z Babystepping.
I leave the image to see how the IR sensor detected the surface as it arrives from the vendor.

The result was not very good and I tried to paint the metal surface before sticking the PEI sheet. I gave two "layers" of paint with a permanent marker then I attached the PEI sheet on top. Unlike other sheets, the ones I have used are very fine, in the order of 0.125mm. and they are not manipulable as mentioned in the Miscsolutions website that I have indicated before. The result was not encouraging, on the contrary. The permanent marker was excessively bright and the IR sensor detected the surface in a more erratic way as can be seen in the next image.

Finally I bought the paint spray-on barbecue & stove paint recommended on the Miscsoutions website and all the problems were finished. I gave two layers of paint with two separations between them. I cured them in the oven at 170 ° C for two hours, I stuck the PEI sheet and the result is in sight.

It must be said that between the tests, there has been no correction of the height in Z. My printer is a Hypercube Evolution with a micro switch on Z- and the IR sensor to level the surface and that all the tests I did same day, since I have several sheets of flexible steel and I have been able to mount the three configurations to see the differences.

Regarding printing features, I have found that PETG does not need any adjustment. First layer at 15-20mm/s, bed temperature between 50-70 ° C and filament at the temperature marked by the manufacturer.
ABS I have not tried it yet, until it gets hotter and can have the ventilated house I will not print with ABS.
As for PLA and other compounds of PLA (Glow in the Dark), I must say that I raise de bed temperature of the first layer between 75-80ºC so that the first layer adheres well. In first complicated layers, which have many profiles, shapes, hard angles and holes, it helps a lot of lacquer, but lowering the speed does not need lacquer.

I usually print at 0.15mm layer height with a first layer of 0.2mm

The best of this system is that you can remove the print surface outside the base and remove the piece by flicking the steel sheet with PEI.
I first tried with high temperature magnets, which needed a base machining to be able to reliably put them. Then I went to the magnetic sheet and, for now, holds 115 ° C without losing magnetism.
Sorry for the extension of the answer and for any mistake that that has passed the google translator reef, but I think it's good to share what has cost me time and money to get.

For days I have printed without any problem in the first layer and removing the pieces by simple bending of the base. Great!!