Topics created by B0M0A0K

Sorry for the delay in responding.

I spent the weekend and every night this week running tests and tweaking my Cura settings. I also reran my tests for extruder steps calibration and all the tests as outlined in the "Mat's Hub" document here.

The results look like this.

0_1567604256301_Test-Results-Assorted-Tests.png

There has been a distinct improvement in the original issue as seen here with the central under extrusion..

0_1567604314288_Original-Angle.png

... which now looks like this;

0_1567604325173_Latest-Angle.png

This this been achieved by a change and test process of printing temp, retraction tests, extrusion multiplier tests along with a few other maintenance tests.

As you can see I still have work to do to stop the rounded corners on the last two right-hand pillars, and there is some warping of the base. I'm going to start playing with dropping the bed temp by 5% intervals and see if that helps.

@b0m0a0k Last time I did this, after I'd replaced the 28 with 0, it stuck.

Of course, you'll have to check each profile as you use it because it seemed to set the default of 28 on all my profiles when I upgraded to 4.2.1. So it might seem that it came back again, but in reality it was just that I was using a profile where I hadn't checked if the setting was zero or not.

Actually, I kept increasing the retraction and eventually the "tail" disappeared. I needed to increase retraction to 1.3mm before this happened.

I ended up cancelling the print, but I can see a marked difference in my prints already 😉

0_1561906340444_WIN_20190630_15_50_17_Pro.jpg

@b0m0a0k said in Modification to Z Offset makes no difference to Z height.:

When I set up the Mesh Grid am I right in thinking that I am working out the coordinates where the probe will contact the bed and not where the extruder nozzle will be.

Yes, where the probe will contact the bed - assuming you have set the correct probe X and Y offsets in G31. The firmware will take those into account when calculating where to place the nozzle for each probe point. If that position is outside the limits that you declared using M208, that point won't be probed.

@b0m0a0k said in Adventures in PID Tuning - Judging how much to change a setting?:

I go ahead and enter the following in config.g on the understanding that I can tweak the settings to get a result closer to stable once it's in place;
M307 H1 A456.7 C184.9 D8.9 S1.0 V12.4 B0
I also remember to add M501 to the end of the config.g file.

Read the instructions. Either edit the M301 command in config.g and make sure you don't have M501 at the end of config.g, or send M500 after auto tuning to generate the M307 command and write it to config-override.g, and make sure you do have M501 at the end of config.g.

@b0m0a0k said in Process for running a PID auto-tune and its results:

I read somewhere @dc42 answered a similar question and suggested adjusting the D parameter until the temperature settles down. Is that still the best approach resolve temp fluctuations?

If the temperature oscillates around the target value, increase the dead time (D) parameter. It it's slow to respond to changes in the environment (e.g. the print cooling fan turning on), you can try reducing the D parameter.

If the temperature overshoots, increase the gain (A parameter). If it undershoots, reduce the A parameter.

Replaced the cabling from the PSU to the Main board power connector with good quality AWG12 silicone cables. Tested the heated bed for signs of heating and there was no issue. This one's fixed.

That'll depend on what layer height you're printing at.

@b0m0a0k The sliders should control Fan 0. By default, both sliders in DWC are one and the same and will move together. To control Fan1 you'd need to disable thermostatic mode then send M106 P1 Snnn.

To understand the basics, I suggest you take a GCode file generated by your slicer, open it in an editor, and look up each GCode command in one of the pages linked to by @oliof. Slicers don't use many different GCodes.

To understand many of the configuration GCodes used by RepRapFirmware, do the same for the config.g file.

The easiest and best method is to match the wire gauge, splice propely, solder the connection and use heat shrink to cover the splice. Use connectors only where needed, typically at the end of the cable where it iterfaces with a board or device. Using a connector to splice on an extension adds another potential point of failure.

I resolved this issue last night. It turned out to be a dry solder connection in the cabling. This fan is now running as expected on one of the "Always On" connectors. Thank you again to everyone who took the time to try and help out. It's much appreciated.

also it is a good idea to have the M92 (steps/mm) line Before the M350 (Microsteps) line that way any change to the M350 will automatically adjust the steps in the firmware to be correct.

Thank you so much for the speedy response, It's very much appreciate it 🙂

@b0m0a0k said in Duet3d WiFi - MOSFET usage:

Not sure if this helps, but based on the comments I understand that the requirement for a MOSFET is something I could add if I want additional protection. Historically it was fitted to the Wanhao i3 to address reports of melted wiring.

Ad the others have pointed out, you'll be fine for the built in mosfets with those numbers, but you could always add an external as it would be easier to replace if it should get damaged due to a fault.

as far as melted wiring goes the only cure for that is thicker wires, or higher voltage and lower currents. (i.e ~100w bed at 12v pulls ~8A needs thicker wires than 100w bed at 24 which only pulls ~4A)