Topics created by Dezdoghound

@dezdoghound as @dc42 mentioned I think this is from the power supply. It is common that a switched power supply generates a whining sound when no load is applied.
/Fredrik

@dc42 I'll definitely move to AC bed in the future for sure. For now I've put two layers of cork on the underside of the bed which has now increased my max bed temp up to 105C. Can heartily recommend this to anybody also struggling with this issue.

So after some experimentation, I've found that I don't get issues when extruder jerk is at 120mm/min and accel is at 3500 mm/min. This however slows down a print a fair bit (calibration cube took 19min20 instead of 15:42).

I've tried lowering microsteps to x8 and x4 but it just makes such a lot of noise that I don't think I want to have it like that even if it works!

this would be nice to see working again so I can avoid the location of the magnets I have under my PCB bed.

2.05.1 is the last of the RRF2 stable line. 3.01 is in active development and will require some changes to your config.g and possibly other files.

For the time being, please test with 2.05.1. Take a look at the release notes for the versions between 2.02 and 2.05.1.

Just in case anybody wants to do this in the future, I've solved it. The issue with having it not move when using G1 Z-999 H1 was my M574 needed to be set as a probe (Z) and I used the Z probe input pins. I had previously been trying the Z probe pins with S1 and the Z endstop pins with S1 (unsure as to why the endstop pins with S1 didn't work.)

At some point I'll show the new probing method...

So just for if anybody looks back to this from a google search and for documenting it solved this issue (don't worry it didn't take 4 months!).

At the time I was using a precision piezo on the hotend using the printed mount. The bowden coupler that I had wasn't holding the tube firmly enough (even with a collet clip in there), so when I was retracting, the tube was being pulled up and away from the hotend. When enough extruding was done to push the tube back down is where a splurge would occur.

I figured this out by marking the bowden tube with some pen, and watching it move slightly further out with each retraction. I've now changed the mounting method (and z homing method too) and all is well!

Basically, yes.

Rather than connecting directly to the Duet, consider getting something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/BlueFire-Waterproof-Voltmeter-Motorcycle-Black-Blue/dp/B07MKFYQHQ/

They can be wired directly to your PSU and should provide exactly what the phone needs to charge. Then you can use a plain USB cable. Plus it also has a handy voltage display.