@jens55 for the PETG one, have you dried your filament? It can absorb a lot of water which will give rough bits that then affect the next layer etc, plus curling, poor adhesion and other print defects.
ABS one might be cooling depending on where your fan points?
Edit: I'd also look at where your seam is. Seems like a lot of them are starting on an overhang which is not great...
@axiom you don't. The shapers cover a frequency range, so if you pick one that covers a wider range and set it to be in the middle of the two frequencies, it should help both. You can't input shape different axes with different frequencies
In the second image you posted, you can see frequency range the ZVD shaper is filtering as a green dashed line. Play with the others in the plugin and see what works.
M593 P"zvd" F49.4
Becomes
M593 P"zvdd" F49.4
Or
M593 P"ei2" F49.4
Or whatever else. Its really that simple. As DC42 says, you may want to tweak the centre frequency (F parameter) so that it better covers both of your peaks.
Basically those other shapers have a wider frequency range than ZVD. You'll see that using the shaper tool when you switch between them!
@Chriss what you want is to use G53 in front of yiur G1 commands in your toolchange files. That means it considers the G1 command to be in machine coordinates, not tool coordinates, so doesnt apply the offsets.
More generally have you read up on the E3D toolchanger and motion system? You could probably get 90% of the eay there with your comissioning by just cribbing their config files and setup guides. No point reinventing the wheel! There are probably similar materials also available for the Jubilee and other toolchanger printers if you look too.
https://github.com/e3donline/RepRapFirmware-SD
https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/sections/6186313376413-ToolChanger-Motion-System
@breadandbudder check you have assembled the hotend correctly with a decent clearance between the heater block and the heatsink. 9 times out of 10 when I've seen V6's that can't hit temperature it's because the heater block is clamped up tight against the heatsink.
If you're not sure, you can post an image of your hotend here.
Also agree that I'd only really trust the proper branded heater cartridges. I've played with cheaper ones in the past and they are generally smaller and less round so don't clamp as well in the block. I had one fall out during a print once, though will never be sure if that was poor quality part or poor quality assembler... 
30w should be plenty for what you need, but a 40w would also be fine. Much above 50w on a v6 can get very hot if you get thermal runaway so I would avoid those unless you are using copper blocks etc to reach real high temperatures (400C plus)
@Ralms so basically, when you called G30 from console, Z was already homed, so the problematic G1 line to move an unhomed axis in your deployprobe.g wasn't an issue? But when calling homez.g with just a G30 in it, the z axis is marked as unhomed before deployprobe.g is called and hence you got the error. Your problematic command was to move z anyway so x and y don't come into it.
My point is that I think the behaviour you're seeing there is fully expected and 100% explainable
@Ralms note that when you call a homing file it first flags the axis as unhomed. My guess is when you did it from command line you had already homed the z axis?
@DonStauffer the PID tuning cycle measures both heating and cooling rates. Its always going to take longer to cool down, especially with the additional insulation, hence the tuning cycle took longer over all despite the heating being slightly faster.
As the bed goes through the tuning cycle it kicks off heat and warms up the air around it, more so if the printer is partially enclosed. This means the cooling rate changes slightly over time. This may happen more with the insulation applied as less heat comes out the first few measurement cycles.
Your tuning took the full default 25 cycles to complete. I'm guessing this is because the cooling rate was changing over time (as explained above), meaning it wanted to use more cycles to collect more data, and hence the warning message you got.
I'm guessing previously it did not need to use as many cycles, so also took less time.
The important thing is how it performs in a print. Does it heat up any faster/slower? Is it stable over a print? Those are all that really matter
@GPetropoulos I notice in your picture that most of your motor connectors are just the black dupont plugs going into the Duet, and that the one proper one has some scorch marks.
Whilst neither of these are a definite source of your fault, they are not ideal. It could be a poor connection in the connector (crimp or pin contact) caused overheating and/or a short? Not much you could do about it now, but it's worth taking the time over the wiring if you invest in a new board
@jens55 that's on the Raise3d Pro I think
@deckingman I've used eSun and Eryone for some things and generally been okay.
If you want UK based though, I'd recommend 3DPRINTZ based in Telford. They don't have so many specialty filaments, but I've always been impressed with their PLA and PETG
@Charlie if you've narrowed it down to the stepper midband resonance (which I'm inclined to agree with), then your options for tuning are limited.
Your stepper is basically acting as a spring damper with a natural frequency that is excited at that speed range. The stiffness comes from the magnetic interaction in the coil, and the mass is the rotational inertia of the stepper. If you increase the stepper current you may effectively make the stepper stiffer and so push the resonance to a higher frequency, else lower current and additing a mass disk to the stepper my drop the resonance to a lower speed/frequency and potentially damp it out a little.
If that doesn't work then either try mounting the steppers on some anti-vibration mounts, or buy some different steppers.
When I built my first machine, the sides of the steppers were butted up against part of the frame, meaning any vibrations were transmitted straight though causing noise. Pulling them out 1mm removed that transfer path and quietened things down a bit
@droftarts I'd say the general idea of CAN is brilliant and massively simplifies the setup over older non-CAN printers.
However the mix of different connector types used and mix of 2-wire and 4-wire adds some confusion and complexity. The simplicity of the RJ connectors on the 6XD and 3HC is brilliant, but try adding a Mini5+ or toolboards in there and you're back to fiddly crimps or burning yourself with solder sleeves. I basically had to wire up my toolchanger twice because of hard to trace issues and intermittent connection problems when I made up my first set of cables.
My preference would have been for Duet to supply a set of standard length cable options. Even if they were excessively long for my build, I think a few coils of properly made cables would be preferable to the bundle of home-made mess on either end I have on my toolboard connectors.
@gnydick I'd suggest trying to give us a bit more information if you want some help. We're not mind readers!
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5909/guide-for-posting-requests-for-help
At the very least, I'd suggest providing:
You say it only happens after a fresh reboot. Does that mean only on the first tool pickup? What about when it happens from homing? Have you tried running each axis homing separately to see which is the offending axis?
@JustSumDad Sorry been away for a couple of days...
For changing your homing as you want, you simply need to change the G1 moves in your homeall.g file. e.g:
; homeall.g
; called to home all axes
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Sat Mar 28 2020 12:55:30 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
M561 ; ADDED -> for good practice, clear any mesh compensation before starting
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-243 Y280 F1800 ; move quickly to X or Y endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 H1 X-243 ; home X axis
G1 H1 Y280 ; home Y axis
G1 X5 Y-5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-243 F360 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 H1 Y280 ; then move slowly to Y axis endstop
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X90 Y120 F6000 ; CHANGED -> This sets where the printer goes before probing the bed
G30 ; home Z by probing the bed
G1 Y275 F6000 ; ADDED -> This moves to Y=275 keeping X and Z where they are
; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing
;G91 ; relative positioning
;G1 Z5 F100 ; lift Z relative to current position
;G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X20 Y250 F6000 ; Move to 20,250 at a rate of 6000mm/min
You may want to tweak the exact X/Y numbers as you see fit.
For your other issue of poor first layer, I think there could be several things to start looking at.
Check your probe offsets are correct. You currently have configured it with the probe 29mm to the right and 10mm behind your nozzle. Is this correct? An image of the print head may help us?
Does your carriage have any play in it? Could be that the weight of the cables makes the head bend over different amounts in different positions which will impact the probe accuracy.
I don't think you have set up your system for 2-point levelling of the Z-motors? Posting your full config.g plus a couple of images of the printer will help us see more about your setup, else you can read up on it here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_auto_levelling
Note: there is a difference between mesh compensation (i.e. the heightmap) and bed auto-levelling.
@JustSumDad by post your G28, G29 and G32, @moth4017 means post your homing files, mesh.g and bed.g files.
The homing file are what control what your printer does when homing so will be wherr to change where it finishes
The others may help with your poor first layer. May also help if you can post a photo of your print head so we can check you have your probe offsets correct
@GeneRisi said in Any possibility to implement keep out area on Duet 2?:
With my e3d toolchanger, i would love to have keep out area implemented. I can’t justify upgrading the Duet boards when they work so well!
Going back to your original question, the way I achieve this is that I change the machine limits in each of the toolchange macros, wipe macros etc. Takes a bit of setting up to make sure you set the limits up for all cases and switch between them properly, but seems to work okay. I have macros that I use to set the limits which I call from the toolchange macros etc so I can easily find and update the limits as necessary.
Its generally only suitable for defining a rectangular go-area, rather than specific no-go areas
@brian why are you changing your board and motors???
It's only the heaters and fans that are voltage specific on most 3d printers
@Kodachrome doesn't matter whether it is the motor skipping steps because it doesn't have enough torque or the extruder gear slipping against the filament. Fundamentally the extruder system cannot push the filament through the nozzle at the rate you are asking. Apologies I have kind of used the terms interchangeably
@Kodachrome you are facing a melt rate problem. Just it's manifesting itself in the fact that the back pressure caused by your high volumetric flow rate is too much for your extruder to overcome, hence it skips steps.
If you increase the extruder torque, you probably will manage to get to higher flow rates. However, you will probably soon start running into problems with poor layer adhesion etc because you the filament simply isn't being properly melted through to the core because you're pushing it through so fast.
Have you tried calculating the volumetric flow rate you're actually demanding and compared to the figures e3d advertise?
Have you also tried increasing the nozzle temp? When you try to do long sustained extrudes, the nozzle temperature will drop because so much heat is going into the filament. Lower temp then means poorer filament melting and increasing back pressure for your extruder.
Equally, higher nozzle temps mean the melted filament is less viscous (more runny) so will flow better at high extrusion rates.
Finally, at high extrusion rates you are needing both high torque and high speed. Generally stepper motor torque drops off at higher speeds, especially if you are only running 12V. I can imagine that the mechanical losses in the nimble cable and gearing also increase with both speed and torque, hence you may be needing the motor to do even more than you think...