Topics created by giostark

@dc42
Thanks David!
The idea would be stay at max 100d in the enclosure. This should be enough for the material I'll go to print . But to have some margin can be useful , for safety and maybe upgrade. The link is very appreciate !
For peek I read that the enclosure should stay from 70 to 150d . I cannot effort the 150 target (because all the hardware limitation) but maybe a compromise is achievable and enough at the end.
I'm not in hurry to finish the printer so I would like build something that have sense and is coherent with all its parts.
I'll keep you informed on the progression of the selection and installation !
Cheer !!! 🤗

@giostark It was also my night time!. 😴

@giostark
Hi all !
After the first enthusiasm I managed to make my printer work a little sustained and the limit of some materials come up.
Unfortunately the only thing that make those bars not valid for be used in an enclosed environment is the Delrin. This is a good material for lots of application , it versatility lies in the good resistance at friction and the possibility to be cnc milled very good. BUT with the heat the game change.
With Haydn make we made this experiment and unfortunately it didn't succeeded.
After long print in an enclosed system with a temp of 60 Celsius (i meant 20+ hours at print) , despite using the proper lubricant changed at each print (super-lube), the Delrin start to consume making the magnet inside the bar come to touch the metal ball , finally scratching it.
I have several other ball sets so now the evolution of this project is substitute the Delrin with some metal ones. I have to ask to friends with good lathe.
I'll let you know how to the stuffs will go...
20211104_202633.jpg
20211110_210445.jpg

@diy-o-sphere
Actually the one that melted was a "Jingzheng" (the fantasy to call a SSR LOL) , but probably the "Fotek" too are clone. I switched for the black ones from amazon.de (i'm in Italy). The review was good enough for try an attempt.
Hope nothing will fry it self , now are cooled properly.
Those for me was the first SSR ever so honestly I can't distinguish the variants. And I'm not expert in electronic , so apart the sticker I would not know what to check.

@giostark said in Always ON fan pins for ON/OFF DC use:

@fcwilt TNX Frederick
I thought that but the signal is intermittent. And the cascade SSR+potentiometer+thermometer doesn't like a fast intermittent. I think that inside the potentiometer there is a slow component that need a continuous current.
I have to open 2 3ds , one for the external resistor of the circular glass and the second for the enclosure (that work pretty good now!).

I don't think the signal has to be intermittent. A PWM signal of 100% should be always on.

I'm not sure how you would configure the output for just on or off but I think it may be possible - @dc42 would know for sure.

Frederick

@phaedrux

The board is 2m in strait line in the same room of the router.
"Intereference" ... maybe the fan (120mm) over the board? But is the first time happen and the fan is always the same as always.
(I swear ones finished the enclosure I'll fix that mess of wires 😑 )
fan-over-board.jpg

- WiFi - Network state is active WiFi module is connected to access point Failed messages: pending 0, notready 0, noresp 0 WiFi firmware version 1.26 WiFi MAC address 68:c6:3a:cd:1e:cf WiFi Vcc 3.31, reset reason Power up WiFi flash size 4194304, free heap 25936 WiFi IP address 192.168.1.4 WiFi signal strength -48dBm, mode 802.11n, reconnections 0, sleep mode modem Clock register 00002002 Socket states: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

@jens55
Yep , I usually print the first 3 layer without the 10% ... (fan totally off).
@mrehorstdmd
Ok understood.
@zapta
Thanks for the link I'm looking it.
@Dad003
I could give it a try. But I the list I have to settle other stuff first.

Thanks to all for the contribution !

@o_lampe
Hi lampe , I have one for the next coreXY full metal I'll be mounting. But for this system I'm a little concerned because the internal temps.
The glass transition for the ASA is rated (as I can read around) at 105 degree. All the times I removed a small part from the hot bed even at the temp of 100 degree the part was almost soft. The cause of my last bite of filament by the extruder I can suppose was because of this. Now , before this system I realized, I had the original metal part of the Tevo , that is an aluminium plate. That part , as the small cylinder of the extruder, came so damn hot during the print. I'm not competent in this area so empirically I just noticed that the metal is far more capable to accumulate heat despite the ASA that I was using for the rest of internal part I printed. Seems the plastic is more insulator and cooler material.
So for the ASA filament or in general those softer material I would stay with the plastic version of the extruder in this delta printer, for the coreXY and polycarbonate and PEEK I'll use the full metal version.
This is my idea , can be right?

@phaedrux
Yo Phaedrux !
So... the culprit was not the soldering between the 80cm and the 20cm of arduino but the soldered pins in the smart effector jack... (the bad pins - for remove it I damaged it a little but one seems cooked)
Probably the arduino wire are too thin to be used in this case.
20210629_164553.jpg
Now I have substituted all the wire with ones thicker and re-soldered all the connections and... seems to work everything. (temp, and calibration)
I have to finish the work but I'm going on...
20210629_190330.jpg

So I can conclude that was a bad wiring . Solved! (hope didn't get still the spurious over shot temp , in case I'll open a new post)

@phaedrux
Bam! Solved with the AO3400A !
Of course i didnt soldered it. A laboratory close to me made the job. Is not beautiful but it work.
Also...I had too many fans attached to the board. I removed 4 of them to the external power supply.
Now it work like as it should.

20210611_172421.jpg

Perhaps try a higher top speed but lower jerk and accel along with pressure advance.

I just finished building a new CoreXY printer with the goal of no 3d printed structural parts at all. The only printed parts are the enclosures for the controller boards and the extruder mount (dual BMG extruders).

I've been 3d printing for several years on both cartesian and corexy. A more rigid printer usually produces better prints. The best improvements were around bed stiffness. I recently went to the 3 independent "true level" setup with a 1/4 thick MIC6 aluminum plate + 1/4 tempered glass. Each z axis motor is controlled by an external stepper and has a 3:1 gear reduction for both higher resolution and higher strength (HERE is a vid of my bed setup). Since this vid, I've added 12mm smooth rods to each ballscrew to improve linear motion.

Attached are a few pics of my printer:20200701_072113.jpg 20200701_072120.jpg !

Ok, I just removed the 3 folders and some bin file not related with DuetWIFI (ex maestro etc). I will see at the next update what will happen.

@oliof said in How to interpret autocalibration results in delta printers:

towards

I see , ok I'll go investigate my build deeper...

@dc42
😵 I didn't even know I had to check this ... ok I'll have a look at it. Thanks as always for sharing knowledge 👍
Edit: yep of course I had all N and S placed 😑 But it was easy alternate looking the stickers!

To read deeply and with more attention unveil lots of good stuffs. 😳

@dc42 said in [SOLVED] Setup the 3rd (virtual) thermistor:

Thanks for the further tip ! 😀

If you're intending to use a 40w hotend heater then as already meantioned you'll need a lot more power to heat the enclosure.

Try looking around for something like this, they come in a range of power and temperature ratings, and ship as a complete unit with fan and over temperature protection (in addition to having a positive temperature coefficient to be somewhat self regulating if the protection fails)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32696347267.html