Posts made by giostark

Hi all ,
i know maybe I should not open this 3d , but to me this was enough singular so I have to report the success of the finding...
The smart effector the last year at one point it started to flicker/dimming . To me was strange some wiring malfunction just because I tried and checked so many time that all was correctly connected ... Frustrated at one point I give up. Then ... a sparkle... Do you want see that the Super Lube (grease) suggested to be used with the magnetic rods have inside some mineral that make it conductive? Nailed. I used some alcohol with cotton fioc to clean between the rods on the smart effector and magically it start to work as expected.
To me this was happened because the hot chamber raised the lube temperatures making it melt a little.

@Phaedrux said in Flickering LEDs and then dim:

@RogerPodacter May be best to start a new thread.

Hi folks ! I'm back on a CNC for make some part for a new 3D printer... so now i'm a little for other stuffs.

Today I start a print and this happen to me exactly in the same way.
I should open a new 3D but the things are exactly the same.
Tomorrow I'll check the connections and the suggested solution by David and report something.

@davidewen
On the Bondtech BMG I have settled E1200. Tie well the screw otherwise the gears will dent the wire.

@davidewen
Yep the Z in M566 could be higher. Right now I have just a delta printer and settled 800 on all 3 axis.
You have 900 on x and y. Why so slow on z with just 60?
David suggest the default as 600 in this post:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/310/m566-what-s-a-good-number
But someone use even 1200.

Please if you found the solution replay here so that will be useful to us all

ps:
I have to learn to check before the config.g and then the slicer , damn. Here the phaedrux's skill was evident!
My advice still remain good for refinement

@Phaedrux
Yo Phaedrux!
He posted the same thing here (link) and I tried to answer him... let see if he will solve the problem:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/14846/strange-blobbing-on-layer-change/32

ps:
i'm restoring a CNC for build some part for the full metal CoreXY high temp I'm assembling... That will be a very fine piece of hardware
Soon as possible I'll post stuffs

@davidewen
Hi Davide,
Maybe you are super skilled already with all those programs , I'll just try to be cooperative.
Is a little hard to tell for sure regarding just one possible solution.
I use Cura and I can try suggesting something using it.

• Try to use Cura 4.13.1. The 5.X series address some issue with concentric shapes (the width of the lines) and is removed the function of exclude tiny gaps, resulting in additional movement and extrusions. (maybe is not the case but on circular shapes could help the first point).
• Try to use defined seam. (so , not the shortest nor the random or sharpest) . In the preview look for the best position where to place the seam. (back , front, left etc) . Try to obtain on vertical line as seam. If necessary rotate the shape. (Cura is rotation sensitive , and you can discover it looking the support lines)
• Try to work on Wall > outer wall wipe distance. (should help to hide the seam inside the shape)
• Try to work on Travel > disable retraction at layer change (this avoid pause and leak of materials because the pressure)
• Try to work on Travel > combing mode on all (less retraction > less pressure changing > less leaking)
• Try to work on Travel > disable retraction before outer wall
• Try to work on Experimental > enable coasting . Here work on the number of the area of the nozzle. (moving without retraction should reduce the amount of material leaked for the variation of pressure. If you exaggerate with this option , or the sum of all those settings, you could generate holes instead of blobs).
• Keep in mind that if you change layer height , all those parameters will change. To my printer ,to print at 0.3 or 0.2 is not absolutely the same.
  And you have seen by yourself with the first shape on left that emphasize the issues.
• Keep in mind that not all the shape can use the same profile.
• The concept is to try to avoid the numbers of retractions and keep the material's extrusion the more constant you can.
• Then... is not exactly clear from the picture , because there are not 90 degree corners , check the belt tension. On quick and fast direction's change you can have a little of vibration of the nozzle. Or instead do not exaggerate with the speed of the print.

I tried to inspect your picture , thanks for the high resolution.
The lines seems good except for the seams.
I'm optimistic that you can nail the right combo of settings.

@manuel
Hi ,
At this page you can find the delta printer calibration full explanation:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer

If you are sure about the numbers that you added (thickness of the glass) you can just modify the "System > config-override.g" file in the M665 line at the H parameter (subtracting the mm you added).
If this will go fine you can change the H parameter also in the config.g

In general for see the height of the printer:
1- power on the printer
2- home the printer
3- lower the head till the glass
4- when you are at the zero send in console G92 Z0 (to define the new zero level)
5- home the printer and read the new height value in the duet dashboard (Status > Z position) after the endstop are triggered. Keep in mind that the home position is lowered of 5mm (you can find your value in the homedelta.g , so you have to add also those mm to the height value you read in the Status > Z position.
6- write this new height in the config-override.g (and config.g)

If you dont have changed also the nozzle height modifying the head of the printer , should be enough adjust the height as above.

@phaedrux
Geeeeeez I can understand why you are happy . The miracle of life now have a gaze curious So many fresh neurons at work!
Poor little girl , now the father will automate the feeding bottle and change diapers !!! See... what 3d printing produce...

@ignacmc
Hi,
If you didn't touch anything (and before was working) it sound as the endstop are not read correctly.
Try to clean all of them. Look if the red light are operational.
Have you checked all the endstop? Try a singular independent move to see if all of them work regularly:
Testing the motors and endstops individually
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareDeltaPrinter#Section_Testing_the_motors_and_endstops_individually

Not related now because you receive the error soon as you try to move, but it could be useful in future: When the head was placed on the extreme part of the bed and try to home is also happened that in the home.g this line had the X Y Z parameters too small and received your same error:
; Move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 X640 Y640 Z640 F2500 H1

I'm at shortage of other ideas... hope some more expert can provide more suggestions

@incidrthreat
Hi, I have a delta so I'll try to be useful...
The error that is blocking your right probing is this , in "config.g":
Rnnn : Radius to probe

M557 R90 S20                                        ; define mesh grid

The R parameter MUST be bigger that the value (radius) you set in http://www.escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizardbed.php bed generator.
Now , as you wrote , they are coincident so they come skipped.
Your radius is 140 so try M557 R120 S20 instead.

Then, cosmetic stuff... I suggest you to erase the G31 line in the config-override and work for the zprobe in config.g for don't make splitted code. And leave geometrical and other auto-calibration in the override.

1)In config-override (remove this line and work in config.g):

; Z probe parameters
G31 K0 P500 X0.0 Y0.0 Z-0.31

-What is in G1 "K0" for? in the wiky https://www.reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G31:Set_or_Report_Current_Probe_status it is not mentioned.
I dont know if this can generate errors somewhere. Remove it.
-Try to set "Z-0.1" till you are not certain that all work as it should. Then you'll refine the stuffs.
-P500 . For the smart-effector this line is suggested G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.1. (look at commissioning)
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/16758/g31-trigger-value-what-is-it-good-for?=1641345568624

2)In config.g ,despite it come bypassed by the config-override.g ,change the Z from 5 to Z-0.1. 5 mean to fly too hight for the head.

G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z5

For the smart-effector this must be "P8" not "P5"...

M558 P5 R0.4 C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod"

For the axis limit set a negative value so that if your Z0 is too high (for some reason) and with babystep you have to go really close the bed , you'll can. Set it ex at Z-0.3.

; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1                                          ; set minimum Z

After you made those change to the code:

-power off , power on the printer.
-home (G28)
-run a single probe (G30). (it will be slow)
-keep the right height and write it in the override.g M666 H parameter.
-restart the printer
-run at least 3xG32
-in console type M665 for read the actual value and copy ONLY the R in the ovverride.g. (and leave the M666 to 0 for all the items)
In this way you will leave to the auto-calibration the job to recalculate the other parameters. In my experience if you put too much manual settings and they are not perfect , the result come even worse.
So basically for the M665 you can add manually : rod length , radius (after at least 3 calibration) , height.

It's late here in Italy... I dont' know if there are more errors in your files... but I'll collapse .... try those change and let us know

OT/ team at work , such a nice reading /OT

@gaou
And also check the wires , just in case. Can happen that if the movement of the head modify the tension of the cables , in some area of the bed the contacts could be not perfect.
Plus, if is it possible don't calibrate with everything too hot (bed and nozzle) , can occur inconsistency trigger read .

@giostark
Hi all !
After the first enthusiasm I managed to make my printer work a little sustained and the limit of some materials come up.
Unfortunately the only thing that make those bars not valid for be used in an enclosed environment is the Delrin. This is a good material for lots of application , it versatility lies in the good resistance at friction and the possibility to be cnc milled very good. BUT with the heat the game change.
With Haydn make we made this experiment and unfortunately it didn't succeeded.
After long print in an enclosed system with a temp of 60 Celsius (i meant 20+ hours at print) , despite using the proper lubricant changed at each print (super-lube), the Delrin start to consume making the magnet inside the bar come to touch the metal ball , finally scratching it.
I have several other ball sets so now the evolution of this project is substitute the Delrin with some metal ones. I have to ask to friends with good lathe.
I'll let you know how to the stuffs will go...

@phaedrux
Buya Phaedrux!! WOW ... simple stuff no eh?! Otherwise life would be boring
Me too I'm very glad the things are going fine ... second child?... so scaring there you must be a hero !
Ligament or meniscus ? Me too I'll have to be drilled. One month ago a car decided to change line without looking, in the highway... Of course I was in motorbike (GSXR1000) at the according speed of the instrument .
By the way , still here we are !

@deckingman
UP!

@zapta
Yea , I'm aware that some part can be printed also if big but those part benefit of "good" or very regular design that don't allow too much inner tension of the material.
Ex: In this part on the left there was a circle (it is a conveyor) . The vertical left and right side adjacent the circle , at 40 degree were bended toward the inside. Resulting in a non vertical strait line.
The only way to make them strait was reach an higher chamber temp.
My task in building the chamber was be free to print without the warp or bending agony despite an non optimal design of the part.

@zapta
That 40 degree is not enough for the ABS , at least for big parts. In my delta I started with that too... a single plexy layer and the result was poor. Then I doubled the plexy separated with foam and still the dispersion of so big surface was too much for rise the inner temp at decent level. Now applying a full surface of 3-5cm of foam for all the inner faces I can get good result over 60 degree ... and finally this damn ABS didn't bend anymore.

(edit)
See bottom!

---

Hi guys !
I have several post to open and I'm still lost in clouds but I finally manage to start at least one.
Haydn has shipped to me the upgrade bar for my delta (1cm thick x 40cm) and they look really good ! Despite the 6mm version I have to say that at least by hand there is not flexion. The 6mm have flexion the 1cm are totally sturdy. I have still to try different speed but I should be able to rise a little the speed without the wobbling problem.
Also, he used a new Loctite for guarantee a more hight working temperature. LOCTITE EA 9017 , +300 °F (+149 °C).
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/my/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_ea_9017.html
By the way I want be sure the hot chamber do not damage the glue and the Delrin (especially in long prints) so I insulated the bars with a 2.5cmx2 thick foam. (it is used for insulate the air conditioning tubes).
This insulation work great. Between the several attempts in building the hot chamber one SSR failed rising the temp in the chamber over the 100 degree (bending the filament and partially melting the extruder structure made in ASA Formfutura ; I noticed the fail from the other room because the bad smell of the SSR and I stopped the machine before the disaster ) . Well the 6mm bars didn't fail , so those ones should be even more resistant. Lesson learned , at first I settled the max temp to 140 but dint expect the chamber could pass the 100 degree , and instead can go even over .
My delta now is build for work not over the 80 degree so I should be more than fine.

@diy-o-sphere
Actually the one that melted was a "Jingzheng" (the fantasy to call a SSR LOL) , but probably the "Fotek" too are clone. I switched for the black ones from amazon.de (i'm in Italy). The review was good enough for try an attempt.
Hope nothing will fry it self , now are cooled properly.
Those for me was the first SSR ever so honestly I can't distinguish the variants. And I'm not expert in electronic , so apart the sticker I would not know what to check.

@fcwilt

I solved in a old style way
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/24785/cooling-ssr