Topics created by nikker

Just to follow up, i did get my slic3r dialed in using a volumetric max speed of 8 mm^3/s and 60mm/s max auto speed. I tried letting slic3r do all speeds automatically except the first layer and small perimeters. Print speed wasnt too bad, every now and then a single layer would print very slow while the rest appeared to be closer to the max of 60mm/s. I was not trying to really print faster, just make sure that the filament flow was consistent. I ended up going back to Simplify3D. While i wish they did more updates and had some newer features like setting up more speeds for different features and native firmware features, the prints came out better even with similar settings. I also ran out of PETG and picked up another roll. I was using eSUN white but the local fry's electronics store didnt have anymore so i got some MG chemicals PETG natural… they have a pretty poor filament selection. The MG chemicals PETG prints much different than the eSUN and actually is drastically better in terms of quality and strength. FYI for those interested.

Im printing with Taulman Alloy 910 quite a lot. Im using 6 to 7mm retraction on about 550mm bowden length without pressure advance.
For me pressure advance causes over extrusion as described in another topic, so you may want to disable it just to eliminate this possibility.

Another problem i encountered is that there are bubbles forming where water in the filament is boiling. This is most pronounced on retractions and while bridging, so where the material can more easily expand, this can cause blobs.
You could try to put you filament in an oven at 80-90 degrees celsius for 4 hours, however it will reabsorb most of the water within 24 hours from air humidity. Im doing this before printing very dimensional critical parts.

Thanks! I was hoping some G or M codes would exists. Got love the duet firmware

My delta also has a 600mm Bowden tube and I need 6mm retraction. I hope the retraction needed may be a little less when I replace the tubing with Capricorn tubing.

The mounting holes on the Duet are not connected to anything, so that won't introduce a ground loop.

It does sound that the processor has developed a fault. Forum user W3DRK, who is based in the US, may be able to replace it for you.

@nikker:

So guess i just wasnt too sure on the wiring, I had all 3 wires hooked up. Just have the 2, ground and stop with the switch being normally closed and seems to work now.

Edit: I did not see your reply. Just to clarify, I have the ground connected to the switches common and the pin labeled stop connected to switch's normally closed pin. The switch has 3 connectors but I am only using 2

That's the normal way to connect standard microswitches. See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches#Microswitch.