Best posts made by PuterPro

@deckingman OH my goodness! I certainly didn't mean to offend ANYONE, and am certainly aware of how helpful you are here!!! My DEEPEST apologies for any slight!!

I was not referring to any of the "regulars". Certainly "a LOT" was a simply a poor choice of words.
I would edit the post and remove the offending remarks but that would break this discussion, so I'll just take my whipping like a man.

What I was referring to was NOT any of the regulars who spend a lot of time helping people and sharing their work, but every forum out there has lurkers that either don't post, or only occasionally, and DON'T share but only come for help.

Pros with "industrial" machines would understandably be reluctant to divulge what might be a proprietary design, which is what the OP had ALREADY STATED earlier, I was replying to that.

Despite being a complete noob here, I've already attempted to share what little knowledge I have and have always tried to be upbeat and helpful. That I'm here posting at all when I'm not try to solve my own problems should speak to that. Simply being only a member for three months doesn't mean I'm stupid or just an ass, it just means I've only recently started in the Duet world, how long someone is a member doesn't make who they are. You hurt me with your remarks.

I've also stated several times both here and on some other forums how great a forum this is, very little of the BS found on some of the 3D forums, and have referred people here.

I think you were a bit harsh and quick to jump me. I know full well who you are and regard you as "one of the good guys" who could be counted on to help out (as you have in some of my questions).

NO implied insult or put-down was intended in the SLIGHTEST. I really don't get how you could have read this as an attack or criticism, it wasn't aimed at you or anyone else here, it was a reply to the OP who was reluctant to share what might be a business advantage (HIS words). I was BEING NICE TO HIM, not attacking you.

Most sorry you took it that way, and my DEEPEST apologies.

Hi all !

Just wanted to let you know I've posted a rework to an actively cooled case on Thingiverse for the Duet Maestro.

Please take a peek and let me know of any issue or improvements you might like to see. Thx!!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520236

A total minefield for a newbie

I LOL'd at this one. I setup mine almost two years ago and thought that. After a lot of work and mind numbing reading of posts and articles (and a HEALTHY dose of help on here!) I finally mastered the beast.

Here we are, a while down the road, and I made some upgrades to my machine and the house of cards came down. The old adage "If you don't use it you lose it" kicked in and again I found myself banging my head on the desk as I struggled relearn AND to grasp the changes that occurred since last time!

I'm now back in it (mostly) and it occurs to me that I might try my hand at writing a beginners guide aimed at the total noob. I'm fairly good at explaining things once I grasp them, my biggest hurtle is that I tend to long winded. Nature of the beast {SIGH}.

There are lots of guides out there, many of them excellent, but I'm thinking sorta a "Guide to the Guides" with some simple explanation of the major terms thrown in since that's often the main sticking point when starting a new field of learning.

The guides don't always define their terms up front, so the beginner gets lost in the terms rather than the concepts being explained. The old "Well, I'm at the end of the page and I'm more confused then when I started" thing.

I'm sure I'd be asking a lot of Q's of the old hands if I do it to ensure I don't send someone off a cliff, LOL! (I can hear the groans now )

Hang in Bob, it'll start coming together. Good luck!

Or you can just cheat, and use a 1500VA UPS, like I do, for the whole thing. You also get surge protection, and on the better AVR ones, it smoothes during slight dips to preserve the battery on brownouts.

If you really want to let out your "Inner Engineer" and want a little project, almost all of the better ones have a USB port that can communicate status & power loss. I imagine an Arduino or Raspi could grab that and send a signal to save and shutdown the printer when the battery gets low.

If you do it, post it on Thingiverse and here, OK?

@jameswood Thanks! I have it hooked up and working with the two cables (reversed the plastic to fix polarity), was just curious if EXP3 was setup for SD card use. Just curiosity, no real need...

It works fine but the contrast is terrible. Seems there's a pot to adjust it on most boards but if there's one on this one I sure can't find it!! Don't want to desolder the boards to look, but not visible from the edges.

I'll control it from a touchscreen PC so the 12864 is strictly for redundancy. Thanks for the info!!

@3dmntbighker said in Using WiFi Router on Maestro:

Things get a little cranky at times routing traffic. The routers don't seem to reliably route traffic between the two domains.

LOL Yeah, that's WiFi in a nutshell!

Fortunately, I have several (like a dozen) of various makes and models, Computer Tech if you didn't guess by my name ...

So if I find it being naughty I'll swap out for another. Doesn't seem like there would be all that much traffic most times.

Fortunately I'm in an undense WiFi environment, except for all MY stuff LOL, and that I spread around the spectrums, so I don't expect to have much interference.

A great app to get a handle on what's around you is WiFi Analyzer (Android only, Apple doesn't allow such things in their store). Works for both 2,4 and 5GHz spectrums, and it's free.

Very much appreciate the heads up! Thx!! Also a big thanks for your other activity here, I've read a lot of your posts since the Ender is a cousin to my CR-10S.

Now it's my turn to stalk you ...

That's looking REALLY awesome. Love the dual printhead setup. You posted a video of it yet?

What's the bed surface, PEI?

Love the idea of two steel plates with rigid spacer blocks for the bed, Light but stiff, never saw that one, very cool.

@zapta said in Crimping tool?:

This one for example doesn't need adjustment and will never nick the wires https://www.amazon.com/Teledyne-Thermal-Stripper-Without-Temperature/dp/B00DNQHBCS

Well, if there was ever a tool that begged for a Chinesium knock off, that one sure fits the bill!

A bit of looking around found this:
https://smile.amazon.com/PATCO-Thermal-Wire-Stripper-PTS-10/dp/B00R3R86JU

a bit less coin of the realm... With of course a downgrade in quality. Seems a great Instructables project for someone.

@deckingman - I'm with ya!! You made me LMAO. I can do flat plaster, but when it comes to corners - looks like a three year old with palsey did it, and the more I try to fix it the worse it gets.

If I need to crimp a plug with more than 4 wires I'll get three perfect, after much effort, then mangle the fourth, which of course make it too short now, so I have to settle for an uneven looking job or let my OCD take over and redo the d*mn thing.

I just converted my CR-10S which is just a bigger version of the CR-10. Still nailing down some little things but it's pretty straightforward, if a bit of work.

For the Bed - they used a standard thermistor on it, it's not a PT100 (unless it's a brand new machine and they did something weird recently). As @dc42 says, use the standard thermistor, the Configuration tool default setting works fine.

If you plan on doing real high temp stuff like nylon or Polycarbonate, etc. you might replace the thermistor in the hotend with a PT100 or PT1000. The PT100 is more accurate but more of a PITA as it requires an amplifier board (sensor has very low signal) and really should be wired with a 4 wire shielded cable rather than the current 2 wires you have.

The reason for the change is the standard thermistor doesn't really have the accuracy at those high temps, it's at the end of it's range. It's a bit of a safety issue as well, but again, only if you plan real high temp stuff over about 260°C.

I went with the PT1000 as it's almost as good as the PT100 but plug and play, especially if you go with a Maestro board, it's setup for it.

The configuration part is the tricky part as the G-Code setup is pretty different than Marlin, but it makes a lot of sense and it really flexible, but be prepared to learn.

I agree with @genghisnico13 - take the time to put some thermal compound on that MOSFET.

Octoprint - I imagine you can use it still, but I think you might take a look at Duet Web Control, it's how most people control it. Here's a link to the Manual: DWC

I have all the motor info if you get stuck when configuring, and there's a bunch of other Creality people hanging around here.

The screen - You can also use a tablet or laptop for Duet Web Control.

It will be an adventure, but you'll have a big smile when you get it running, it's head and shoulders above the Marlin setup.

@bot said in I built a printer! Thank you everyone for everything.:

I believe the bed assembly, excluding the ball screw and linear rails completely, weighs 16 kg!

OMG! Not quite light, LOL! You could use that as a ballistic shield in a battle!

my wife told me I need to change the design to be like that

It's really cool your wife is not only understanding, but helping. Mine pretends she's not very knowledgeable but I explain everything to her as I go and she's probably a better engineer than a lot who pretend to be ... she's extremely smart. (Smarter than me for sure!) She's forever saying something when I'm fighting a problem that totally solves it from an unexpected angle.

Look forward to a nice "Walkabout" video where you tell some of the decisions you made and why.

Catch ya later, and again, well done.

I have a CR-10S with dual Z, setup as independent axis (Z & U), as well as a BL-Touch.

My homing routine for Z runs the bed down (towards home for me) until both Z endstop switches activate, then up a bit and final Z home with BL-Touch. This compensates for a very slight X carriage tilt that occurs when the right Z motor is released, an inherent problem in a lot of CR-10S's, and ensures a level X & bed.

I haven't implemented it yet (always other projects ... LOL) but I intend to setup an "Emergency Stop" if the Z switches ever actuate during BL-Touch homing, in case of sensor failure.

The BL-Touch's plastic probe is always exposed. On a failed print you can get plastic strings that can catch it and bend it (ask me how I know ...), which can cause the nozzle to smash into the glass if homed with a bend pin.

@bot Interesting thought, and it's always cool to discuss these things, it's how the software advances, but I must disagree.

Endstops are ENDstops, and should be respected. Compensating for Accell & Jerk during homing is an entertaining theoretical discussion but never gets off the ground in the real world. As @dc42 points out, every software out there does the same, including multiple million dollar machines.

The amount of force needed to damage the ball screws when stopping would require a very high rate of speed. Running at such speed past the endstops would cause a heck of a lot more damage than simply stopping the motor would create to the ball screw!

If this was a real problem, we would be seeing wear being reported by the hundreds of print farms that run dozens of machines 24/7, demanding a fix. We don't.

Endstop = Edge of World = Beyond here lie Monsters.

Endstop.

{Giggle} Love to know you're thinking about things, keep it up!!

Welcome to the Duet world!

If you're just starting with RepRap Firmware (RRF) it can be a bit of a ride. For example, if you've adjusted VRef on your board before, now it's done in a line on the config.g file. That's also where you would define the motors and what outputs do what. Everything is software controlled and configured by G-Code commands.

It's a very flexible system since, as @dc42 points out you can use an unused extruder output to drive a motor, or a "Fan output" for a sensor!

Your main guide will be here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/ which has all the info you need to setup your system. That said, it can be a bit confusing at first. If you've done any programming or are familiar with command line structure like Linux or DOS you'll be fine.

The main G-Code reference page is here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode and the wiring & differences from Marlin is here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/#Section_Getting_started_with_the_Duet_2_WiFi_or_Ethernet

You might bookmark those, you'll live there a lot at first. Read the getting started while you're awaiting your board.

If you get stuck there are many experienced hands here to help, it's a very friendly forum! Have fun!

@bot said in I built a printer! Thank you everyone for everything.:

Hahaha. Yes, my wife is great. ...

That's tres cool. It's wonderful that our society is starting to really emphasize S.T.E.M. for women. I suspect if we came back in 100 years we'd find a matriarchal society with women in charge of everything.

I get the sharing it part, do what's comfortable for you, don't feel pressured to share away any slight advantage, as you pointed out this is a great community and people will understand.

Considering that the Duet boards are aimed at the higher end user, there are a LOT of people on here who are doing pro based machines that won't share E/T and we all get it.

Post yer Benchies matie! People will jump in and help you fine tune that beast.

EDIT:
Just watched the video ... Wow. That thing is industrial grade, my Friend. Nice build. Fusion 360 must be your Bioch, LOL!

That's quite a nice looking rig!

You can relax this coming week, you found the right place.
You'll get all the help you need here, there's a bunch of really knowledgeable helpful people here, many with homemade or highly modified rigs.

PS Love the panic button!

@taconite - Taken.

Didn't see the "keep this code" until I had already clicked "Finish". Don't know what you had in mind there, but you need to make it more prominent if it's really needed.

Good luck on your thesis!

@phaedrux said in I built a printer! Thank you everyone for everything.:

a toy for my 10 month old baby boy. I actually tried annealing the PLA in the oven to toughen it up, and so far it's taken a lot of abuse

Nice benchie(s) ! Just as a note, although PLA itself is "chew safe" that only applies to the pure (clear) plastic. The colored PLA is food safe only if they submitted it for testing, and only a few do.

Most of the stuff comes out of China, and who knows what impurities are in there; lead, arsenic, multi-syllable compounds of all sorts! Certainly your decision, but personally I wouldn't give it to a baby. NOT judging you, just sayin ...

I bought a Power Fryer XL that has removable shelves and found it's perfect for drying two reels at once and also annealing. I check the temps with a K type Thermocouple and they were pretty spot on with excellent regulation. The Dehydrator mode allows 5-6 hour low temp drying.

It's this one https://smile.amazon.com/Power-Features-Professional-Dehydrator-Rotisserie/dp/B0769Y1JVN

Oh, and it makes killer Fries & Crispy Chicken too! LOL. I always clean it carefully and run it empty for a few mins after putting plastic in there ....

@Phaedrux - Another note - I'll now do the Calibration for the PT1000 per:
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_connecting_thermistors_PT1000

Puterpro - Out. Be well my distant friend.

Thes best thing to do is get familiar with the different filaments and their temp & handling needs.

A 5°C change can be very big a difference for some filaments while others it's no big deal. It can also matter how fast you're printing. If you ramp up the speed it's generally better to increase the temp slightly (like 5°) to compensate for less heating time through the hotend (called Dwell time).

Obviously we couldn't tell you what to do with so many filaments available. Even, as you say, there are reel to reel differences (although less so with the higher end ones, better QC).

The Duet Web Control (DWC) has the ability to store filament specific settings so you can simply click to set & load / unload a filament once you've worked out the proper temps and speeds.

Here's a couple guides that may help (most are trying to sell you theirs ... LOL):
https://all3dp.com/2/the-best-printing-temperature-for-different-filaments/ (LOT OF INLINE ADS)

https://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare (one of the better ones)

http://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide (also fairly good, scroll down past the 1st part)

https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-printing-basics-how-to-get-the-best-results-with-pla-filament
(Mostly about PLA & ABS, but the site has lots of well written articles, this one has a great discussion with illustrations of adhesion issues)

@Phaedrux said in BLTouch Bed leveling oddity:

The reason for going to 3.0 first is ...

Makes sense.

The json file is a one way street.

I suspected that when I used my last old one and a lot of it wasn't what I had done manually.

The configurator is a jumping off point, .... it's best to just get used to modifying the config.g directly.

That was becoming apparent this time. It's fine when I'm all mired in it, but not touching it for over a year ... "You don't use it, you lose it!" Gets worse as I get older too. Grrr. LOL

Using the endstops as an e stop is perfectly fine idea. You can also drop your Z axis motor current during homing/leveling so that in the event of a crash there is minimal chance of damage which kind of negates the need.

Just like the idea of a backup plan, the BLTouch can be cranky.
I toyed with the idea of dropped current but never got around to it. Good idea, I'll do it now until I'm all squared away with RC 2.8 Milllion. Poor David, every time he thinks he's got it nailed some major buggy-boo bites him in the ass! Guy's a Saint.

Thanks Jason, you always get me back on track, your work here is truly appreciated.

@bot said in Can't change current for new stepper:

M584

You mean this one?
; Define Axis ;
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 U4 P3 ; With Second Z motor defined as U axis on E1 driver, P3 to hide it

1st line of my config.g , left it out since I didn't think it applied ...

Hey are you stalking me?