Topics created by PuterPro

@Phaedrux - Another note - I'll now do the Calibration for the PT1000 per:
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_connecting_thermistors_PT1000

Puterpro - Out. Be well my distant friend.

post removed - starting a new thread

@PuterPro said in Advice on upgrading from 8mm Lead to 2mm Lead T8 screws:

@deckingman
Thx! @Phaedrux was quicker on the keys!.............

Yes - by 9 seconds 🙂

@Phaedrux said in BLTouch Bed leveling oddity:

The reason for going to 3.0 first is ...

Makes sense.

The json file is a one way street.

I suspected that when I used my last old one and a lot of it wasn't what I had done manually.

The configurator is a jumping off point, .... it's best to just get used to modifying the config.g directly.

That was becoming apparent this time. It's fine when I'm all mired in it, but not touching it for over a year ... "You don't use it, you lose it!" Gets worse as I get older too. Grrr. LOL

Using the endstops as an e stop is perfectly fine idea. You can also drop your Z axis motor current during homing/leveling so that in the event of a crash there is minimal chance of damage which kind of negates the need.

Just like the idea of a backup plan, the BLTouch can be cranky.
I toyed with the idea of dropped current but never got around to it. Good idea, I'll do it now until I'm all squared away with RC 2.8 Milllion. Poor David, every time he thinks he's got it nailed some major buggy-boo bites him in the ass! Guy's a Saint.

Thanks Jason, you always get me back on track, your work here is truly appreciated. 🙂

@bearer Yep, that was the post! Thanks!

Just wanted to check back in and post this for others chasing this madness ...

I went back to the PT1000 sensor and all's well.

HOWEVER, just for fun I hooked up the PT100 and set the config.g to R22000 and I can confirm that at least with a short wire and at room temp it does indeed work on a Maestro. I put it on my hot bed and it did climb, who knows how the curve works ... but it does indeed read.

I hadn't seen the INVERT option relative to the reset -but that did the trick. Thanks.

For my part.
If I do not display the current values in the web page, there is a problem with the configuration.

For engines that the value does not change, I redo a configuration in another location (in the config.g), I think there are conflicts following the instructions that are used later.

In my case, I had a problem with extruders on the DUEX5, which remained at 0mA, while on the DUET the command worked.
Putting this line further in the code corrected the problem.

M906 E800:800 ; Set motor currents (mA);pour test>> necessaire sinon pas de courant du tout

@dc42 said in 12v Fans on 24v Maestro question:

Yes, if the negative outputs of the 2 powers supplies are connected together.

Yep had that one. Was just being overly cautious, as I always am when wiring power, don't like when the magic smoke appears 😇

I'm up and running with my new steppers, heater & 24v P/S. Fans & bed on 12v supply.
PID done, now off to fine tune steps.

Thanks so much David, you're the best!

@dc42 - My pleasure (small bow) LOL.

4-6-19 Updated to fix some minor problems and add some info about fan selection.

@puterpro said in Upgrading CR-10S Steppers & PS to 24v Suggested Z replacement:

There's a slot above and below, kind of hard to see on the STL viewer. If you hit "Thingiview" at the top and rotate it so see the front you can see the mounting post through the bottom hole.

I see it now.

OK.. it´s old.. but...

A workaround ist.. define the 2. FAN.. as Thermostatic controled.. and it´s gone in WBC.
Reason.. you can´t control a thermostatic controlled FAN

@puterpro said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:

@deckingman
Diamond HE, eh? Do you get a lot of clogs? That fan must sound like a 747!

I've done an awful lot of work on "taming" the 5 colour Diamond - see my blog https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/23/the-diamond-5-colour-part-3-finally-tamed/

No clogs now but that's after a lot of work re-designing fan ducts and increasing the fan size from 50mm to 60mm in order to get the requisite air flow. 27 cfm is sufficient and the current fan I use for that is rated at 39dBa so not too bad. During my experiments, I had one fan that was rated at 66dBa. That one sounded like Concord (much louder than 747) ☺

@Phaedrux - Thanks for the quick reply! The R value was put in originally by RRF Config Tool, it's a Maestro so it has a 2200Ω resistor onboard (unlike the other Duets which have 4700Ω), so I just left it in when I changed the line for the PT1000.

Extenders - used the original extensions.

Re-run at lower - well, I intend to do a lot of hotter stuff so I wanted it to be tuned a bit north of normal.

However - re-ran at 240° , To my amazement and delight the stupid damn thing straightened out, nearly flat now. Duh. Should have tried before posting (hindsight and all, LOL).

What threw me was the large temp difference I was observing / measuring. I understood the PID tune to adjust ramp up, overshoot and dwell, not change the total (or "top") temp. Am I misunderstanding this?

@dc42 - Thx, as always! Well, after re-tune it ended at M307 H1 A425.6 C235.0 D5.3 S1.00 V12.2 B0
Completely different C & D values, with D way up . Smooth as silk now. Who knows what evil was at work I think sometimes these machines screw with us just for fun (insert machiney chuckle).

Thanks guys! Running it now and all appears well (well, minor fan issue but separate post going up)
Cheers!

So the BED is P0 !! Duh. Knew it was something stupid I was missing ... Got confused by the hotend being E0, so I thought P0 ...

Thanks guys! You guys rock! Off to do a PID tune ... 😀

I was referring to the E1 heater output, not the E1 motor output. They are independent of each other.

Read too fast since I knew it wasn't currently a problem, noted.

MOSFET - Thx.

I was just about to edit to add this:0_1551114763466_Fan MOSFET.jpg

Doesn't LOOK blown, but I haven't metered it out. Non issue for now tho', if I ever go dual extruder I'll fix it.

@dc42 I thought that might be it, but it was crossing my eyes. I know you get not liking unsolved mysteries... Thx again.

@phaedrux said in 2nd Z Endstop Missing in RRF Config Tool:

1a. The configurator isn't perfect. It's basically just a working starting point. Manual editing of the config.g file ... will be needed.

Thanks a lot!! Makes a whole lot more sense.

1b. The BLTouch is quite reliable. Once it's configured and working it's a very simple mechanism in and of itself. Not much to fail.

Good to know, but I've seen people have them fail in various forums, and I doubt it's as reliable as a mechanical switch, so I'll stick with "mildly paranoid" a good attitude towards any electronics, particularly DIY setups, LOL.

Yes you can have a microswitch wired up and used as a backup emergency stop if you want. ... As a general trigger though it can be active at any time, and you can wire multiple switches together to trigger all of the axis if you wish. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_an_Emergency_Stop

Recall seeing that now, but haven't had time to read my way through ALL the good data on the Wiki, thx for the reference, I'll check it.

However, ... A safer and simpler approach the protect against the failure of a probe or switch during a homing move (which is really the only time when you're actively trying to go towards an axis limit) is to adjust the motor current down during a homing move so that even if the probe or endstop fails, the motor won't have enough force to damage anything. You can use a M915 command in the homing files to scale the current to a percentage before the move, and then return to normal after the moves are complete.

EXACTLY what I was looking for, that you can limit current is perfect.

Defining the U axis and endstops and then recombining them will be done in the homing files or bed.g.

*OK, got it, I think I know how to do it, if not ... 😁 *

Thx again!

@JamesM - Thanks so much for your reply! I get what you're saying, I've lived with this sweet but annoying beast since Nov 2017 and as @Phaedrux says that's what I'm trying to avoid.

Having to level the X rail then re-level the bed every time you stop printing is like having to pump air into two tires everytime you want to drive somewhere! I've minimized it to a small amount mechanically, but it's a frame & wheels problem and I can't get it perfect.

Additionally, as I understand it, the Za & Zb setup you're using puts the motors in series not parallel as the CR-10S Melzi board does and that's not ideal for the NEMA 17 motors we're using, working better with larger motors like NEMA 23. But again, thanks for jumping in!! 🙂

@Phaedrux - Thanks for the simplification! OK, I re-read the article after reading more about M584 in the Duet3D Wiki G-Code section. I had read about it in the RepRap G-Code and there's a big difference in explanation levels. I also go a better understanding from a thread on "Incorrect Z microstepping" where @Surgikill was having CoreXY problems.

Makes sense now. Part of it was just brain overload trying to grasp everything I have to do to get this into my CR-10S, LOL.

Still have a confusion on this:

In the RRF Configuration Tool when I specify I want E1 to drive Zb, then move on to Endstops, there's no way to ADD the endstop for Zb. It only shows X,Y & Z. Do I have to define it manually in the config.g file after the RRF tool is done? No problem I think I can do that, but ...
Note - I do not currently have a probe. Plan on a BLTouch soon once the Wife Finance Committee recovers from all the other purchases 😁

@dc42 - No probe yet, soon tho' Thx. And get some sleep, will ya. Even with the time difference to the East Coast US you're still working too late. 😉