Topics created by Scottbg1

Thanks for the clarification. I just re-read the Wiki and for V1.18 it mentions the default value of P=1.0 (my bad)

My cartridge is from Aliexpres and specifies 24V/50W. However I have measured a resistance of 8.1 ohms, which would mean 20W if powered with 12V and 71W if powered with 24V. That got me thinking of the quality…...

The current forum software has a number of limitations, which is why we are going to change it.

Thanks so much!

I will lower it now!!

I might break out my gopro one of these days and do a recording with a high jerk setting so we can compare the noise across different parts and moves.

I have a unique printer design that is rather light and strong at the same time so turning it up really isnt going to damage much more than the motors and we'll be able to hear when jerk is applied

I would love to do it now but I am in the middle of building a craft studio for my wife and in my free time am designing a new type of bowden extruder for flexible filaments

@Scottbg1:

Here's some craziness that maybe you guys have run across but it's surprising to me…

The roll of Hatchbox PETG has about 1/3 of a roll left and it's been sitting in an air tight box with a handful of silica gel baggies lining the floor for about the last 1 1/2 months.. There are various other filaments stored in there as well.

I mentioned earlier the trouble I was having with the eSun. So I am tweaking my settings per the conversation I had with Whitewolf with the Hatchbox roll.

I used to have to set my retraction length and speed pretty high to minimize stringing and blobs with the very roll on the old printer.
I am printing out a cylinder and a cube at various settings, and I have Pressure Advance turned off and the retraction settings at about what I had set for PLA and I have ZERO stringing and blobs. I had to double check the label to make sure I grabbed the right roll.
I know I haven't tweaked this machine to perfection. Do you think that maybe it sitting in the storage container so long has effected it? The only issues I have is a little under-extrusion during the infill. But I slowed the speed down a touch and it has improved a lot.

I am just shocked. Because of my personal experience and EVERYTHING I have ever read about PETG stringing and ooze is a normal characteristic and I am getting none of that. I think I will let the eSun roll of disaster bake in the box for a few weeks and revisit it just to see.

Yeah, if you want to improve your dry box a bit there is a guide on Taulman3d website that can put filaments in tip top shape: http://taulman3d.com/drying-materials.html

As deckingman explained TechG can vary Taulman themselves have three different PETGs under different names and different characteristics all three print amazingly so does the rigidink so i had some ignorance as to why others had such issues with PETG i guess i was just spoiled out the gate because ive been using taulman TechG every since i started printing in PETG a couple years ago

@dc42:

@gnatman:

Nice, I'm trying to figure out my endstops on mine.. Seems the LED is always on unless I slip something in between it to trigger it. I tried asking for help on fb group but I'd love to get some help if at all possible. I can't wait

That is the normal way round for optical endstops. Use S1 in your M574 command.

Thanks, I was able to get the x and y to trigger. it took me a little bit to figure out why they weren't doing anything before. basically I was having an issue where M119 wasn't showing it triggered. Once I looked more at the code and changed values here and there I finally got it working. Now I need to mount all of my endstops so that I can home the printer properly. currently I'm hitting home and stopping it shortly after with an object triggering the sensor.

Fixing the blobs isnt the heat… just because it works doesnt mean its the right thing to do.

What is your pressure advance settings, does exactly 100mm of filament come out when you extrude with hotend detached?

You really need to get a caliper, they can be found at harbor freight for cheap.

Hmmm….

Ok, then I need some advice then. I thought I had the nozzle height adjustment thing down pat but apparently I don't.
My first printer, (a Prusa clone) maintained the same nozzle height after homing.
I always understood that manually setting the nozzle height using a piece of paper folded in two as a feeler gauge, between the nozzle and bed, then adjusting the bed height screws to get a perfect distance for printing. So when the print started, this manually adjusted height determined the print height, and the layer height was determined by settings.

If I am understanding you correctly, I should adjust the nozzle height to be touching the bed completely, and the gcode will raise the nozzle, (or in my case, lower the bed) per the layer height I have entered in the slicer?
I always assumed that layer height = extrusion rate + print speed.

Educate me.

BTW....I just ordered your Mini IR height sensor from Filastruder. I read that it works well with a glass bed, which is what I use.
I am hoping it will take the aggravation out of adjusting the bed level.

Yes exactly the same.

Ha! Forgive my weak attempt at humor.
Yes, I knew full well you were the designer for the Duet. As well as a huge contributor to 3D Printing in general.
And if you don't own an island yet, I hope you get it! 🙂

And regarding the Pilot license. Excellent! I have always wanted one. As a matter of fact, as I am experiencing my scheduled mid-life crisis, I have seriously considered jumping off the cliff and getting my Helicopter license and become a pilot for the oil industry. I live on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico and there is a steady flow of helicopters carrying oil rig workers miles out into the Gulf.
I think it would be cool to do and it would probably impress the girls, I think.

@dc42:

Try M574 X1 Y1 S1 instead of those 2 lines.

Fantastic, that worked! I probably would have gotten it eventually just trying other configurations of the M574 command. Thanks again for your help I'm so excited to be one step closer to printing with this build. Next step is to order the zesty.