Topics created by tjb1

If your board is still under warranty then I suggest you ask for it to be repaired or replaced. The soldering on pin 119 of the MCU should be checked and the Y motor driver probably replaced.

Argh that I was not aware of been a while lol

@tjb1 Here:

http://reprap.org/wiki/Duet#Wiring

@tjb1:

Is it normal to have to take F down to 10 to get PWM to work below 99%?

With some types of fan, yes. For example, the heatsink cooling fans supplied by E3D. Most of the fans we use were not designed to be used with PWM, so it's amazing that so many of them do work.

I've adjusted that and can't really tell if it's working or not. It didn't drop yesterday but it went into alarm shortly after starting the print. I'm going to try adding another ribbon cable for the BLTouch tonight and see if that works. Maybe the one from TriangleLabs isn't a great copy? I'm hesitant to spend $40-50 for an "authentic" one that may have the same issue.

I'm sorry to hear that you received a PCB with a dented wifi module. I doubt that it will affect the wifi, but as we can't be certain of that, please ask your supplier for a replacement Duet under warranty.

What does the diode do in this situation? If I'm reading that correctly, the signal wire from the sensor will be attached to the cathode which will not let current flow until the breakdown voltage is reached. The breakdown voltage for both the BAT43 and BAT85 are 30 volts. I'm not very good with electronics and I assume I'm missing something here due to "(typically to VIN because these sensors usually need between 6 and 30V power)"and it has nothing to do with the breakdown voltage but I would like to understand what is happening.

Before I got my Delta Smart Effector, I was using a modified version of this Thing:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:932959

As delivered, it has 20x20 screw spacing; but I had to modify it for 20x16 spacing to attach to the sliders I'm using, which I accomplished by editing the "for (y = [-10, 10])" line to "for (y = [-3, 13])". I made a few other tweaks, too.

When I got my Smart Effector, I needed to change the ball stud spacing to 55mm, which is done via the rodSeparation and ballStudDistance variables (they're semi-redundant). I'm now using my modified version of this Thing with my Smart Effector, without the carriage pieces provided with the Smart Effector. This seems to work fine – or at least, as well as can be expected. (There's a bit too much play in my carriage, and printing parts like these, rather than using manufactured parts, might be a contributing factor.)

In any event, you should be able to make similar changes, just with a tiny change for 20x15 spacing. If you're not comfortable with OpenSCAD, I could do this for you and send you the files; PM me if you want this. Note that I can't promise how whatever I produce would mate with your slider; it might be awkwardly high or low. If you do it yourself, you can adjust the y range in that "for" statement to get it to fit the way you want.