I solve by moving with my hand the pin of the BL. I read somewhere that this is because small particles get introduced and make it difficult to move

@dc42 you are right, that slipped my mind, my first delta printer and there is so much to learn. Thanks again!

You might need to add some foam under the piezo to improve damping.

If the wires from the piezo disks to the Universal controller are long or are routed next to heater or stepper cables you may be getting interference.

Finally, with the mass of the bed providing inertia, you need to do everything you can to reduce the impulse when you start homing, even though your bed is not moving. Reduce instantaneous speed change for Z to zero, at least during probing. Reducing Z acceleration will also help. This should allow you to set the trigger threshold closer to the resting value without getting spurious triggers, improving accuracy.

Idris

@Phaedrux All working!!! Thanks

@Phaedrux I actually measured my bed from the gantry and it was quite a bit off. The gantry itself is super square but the bed was slightly tilted. Also after watching some videos from TH3D I wasn’t calibrating the actual sensor properly. The bed needs to be heated when probing and the probing speed lowered to 15mm/s. The sensitivity of the sensor has to be adjusted as well with the nozzle touching the bed and the sensor approximately 2mm off of the bed.

Printer is an Ender 3 pro with 1Z motor but dual axis setup and linear rails. There is a lot of weight on the X&Z axis now with the 3Dfused linear rail kit and direct drive setup so I may need an anti backlash nut. After I did the Z calibration my nozzle was slightly going into the bed.

I think the PETG available today is generally as easy to print as PLA. Hotter temps and less cooling are the big differences. Otherwise most print settings can remain the same.

thanks,

i will try later..., and give feedback

Your application requires a very sensitive force measuring device. A load cell sensitive enough for such low amplitude of vibration can work or you could also resort to using other types of sensing techniques but I think they might be costly. You could learn more about the force sensing techniques and related concepts through here: https://tacunasystems.com/knowledge-base/an-overview-of-load-cells/

For those of you who have a beautiful "Red, Blue, Yellow, Black, White"-cable-BLTouch:

Blue goes to expansion pin 1 (+5V)
Red goes to expansion pin 2 (GND)
Yellow goes to expansion pin HEATERx
White goes to Z_PROBE_IN
Black goes to GND on ZPROBE port

Maybe this can also be added to the documentation.

@g-biel @jay_s_uk @HtRabbit Sorry for replying so late, been busy. Many thanks guys, problem solved.

Sorry everyone I wasn’t getting email notifications. I have never actually seen a ! In a command but ^ was common. The dozuki has this example M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F100 T2000.

So ^ is pull-up regardless of value and ! Is invert. Ok.

So I’m betting that 3.0 let me use I1 but I have to use ! In 3.11

Thanks.

@jens55 yeah it's 34" L x 30"w x 30" T, Double walled Cardboard with inner surfaces tinfoil lined. The top definitely leaks, I need to add some foam adhesive strips to fill gaps.
This is my design, ABS plastic fittings hold it together
Honestly, I don't need DWC control just want something with temp monitoring and shutoff. For obvious reasons. My Amazon special space ceramic heater must have a temp sensor bc I only runs for like 5mins in there before it shuts off, which is nice but it won't stay running long enough

@gorf26
How is it normal with precision piezo v2.85 20mm, on reprap NO or NC.
Have you in you in your config NO or NC

@Phaedrux said in BLTouch very occasionally not deploying:

Also, for the future, it's a good idea to use M913 to drop the motor current during homing just in case there is a crash. That way the motors will stall before causing much damage.

Turns out I'm already doing that, I just never added a Z parameter (sensorless homing on X/Y).

It's also a good idea to add a alarm release and retract command to the start of homeall and to the end of config.g just to get the BLTouch ready in case it is not. Ask me how I know.

No need to ask, I should know myself. In fact, I had assumed I was already doing that, but I was not. 🤦

Also found out that my "look backward" index is off. See lower block. Argument of 2 gets latest and 0 or 1 blows up.

Will fix later today.

./DuetVersion.sh Highest Available DuetSoftwareFramework = 2.1.2 Currently Installed DuetSoftwareFramework = 2.1.1 Dependencies for DSF version 2.1.1 are: duetcontrolserver (= 2.1.1) duetsd (= 1.0.6) duettools (= 2.1.1) duetwebserver (= 2.1.0) duetwebcontrol (= 2.1.5) reprapfirmware (>= 2.1.1-1) reprapfirmware (<= 2.1.1-999) ) reprapfirmware apt version 2.1.1-1 is internal version 3.01-RC10 ./DuetVersion.sh 2 Highest Available DuetSoftwareFramework = 2.1.2 Currently Installed DuetSoftwareFramework = 2.1.1 Command line arg specified to request Release -2 from highest available. Highest-2 is DuetSoftwareFramework = 2.1.2 Dependencies for DSF version 2.1.2 are: duetcontrolserver (= 2.1.2) duetsd (= 1.0.6) duettools (= 2.1.2) duetwebserver (= 2.1.0) duetwebcontrol (= 2.1.5) reprapfirmware (>= 2.1.2-1) reprapfirmware (<= 2.1.2-999) ) reprapfirmware apt version 2.1.2-1 is internal version 3.01-RC10

@Phaedrux got it. I will look for Both in Cura. No big issue except the speed is shaking everything. Still prints well I am guessing due to the box frame of the 5+ but I think I can slow it down a bit.

The mesh bed I have set 0-330 for x and y and set it at 30mm increments this past run. Was using 60mm before. It probes a lot and takes quite some time to complete at that rate. But it still had issues printing in a certain area.

Not directly. Only Duet3 hardware supports direct drive of dotstar or neopixel.

With Duet 2, you'd have to drive a pin that switched a controller that, in turn, drove the LEDs.

Never mind. I just found that polarity in the control wires is irrelevant.
Heater works now.