Vertical lines vs. geared extruders
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Interesting videos. New gear design required. I had the thought of using two motors to drive in unison but that comes with it's own issues.
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I guess I don't feel so out of date for still running a single gear titan aero like a pleeb.
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I have tried a few of the test prints from the videos. I have been unable to get the “wood grain” pattern to show up with an LGX extruder(pleased about that).
I’m going to try a few different parameters to see if I can excite it in some way because it’s a dual drive and I would expect similar results in some form or fashion.
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I just printed "rectangular 2 recommended.stl" using recommended settings and reported my results with photos through the survey page linked in the video description. I have a genuine Bondtech BMG suspended with a 140mm bowden on my delta and I see no such artifacts. Perhaps I got lucky with my BMG unit or maybe the bowden is long enough to compensate (though my usual retraction is under 2mm).
Perhaps this is an issue of stacking tolerances leading to problems in some setups. -
@alex-cr
the LGX is the one with the bigger diameter gears?
I suspect they made them bigger, also to have better bearings for the gears.
The usual barrel bearing and the super small main bearings might have an influence on the lack off smoothness of extrusion, too? -
@ajdtreyd
bowden wont show those problems , it is masking it .its a combination of things , bondtech style drive + short filament path .
i have V6 style heatsink that was cut in half (to shorten filament path) , after cutting the pattern or "inconsistent extrusion" became much worse . -
@hackinistrator
that would explain, why my old Prusa I3 had such terrible ringing (I thought it was ringing). The heaterblock was mounted right below the extruder and the drive gear was just a fine-pitched pinion gear.
I tried to tighten the belts, but made no difference -
I said it was a cogging issue with the spur gear teeth at the beginning of this thread, and suggested herringbone gears! However, the problem isn't the gears not meshing (the second one just becomes an idler), it's when there's too much pressure on the gears, ie the idler pressure is done up too tight, so they bind on each tooth. All straight cut gears have this issue; they are not meant to be pushed hard into each other.
It would be interesting to print the trapezoid shape while reducing the idler pressure by half a turn every 1cm of height, between maximum pressure and when the filament slips. Might show that there is an optimum pressure to avoid the issue, while still having good grip.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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Just printed the 'rectangular 2' with a Bondtech BMG (BMG-M w/Mosquito, to be precise) - its very, very faint, but the wood pattern is there.
FWIW the most consistent outer wall (smoothest) prints I've personally seen come from the Stratasys 1200 series printers with the closed loop Maxon DC motors (excluding all other wall artifacts).
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@droftarts said in Vertical lines vs. geared extruders:
I said it was a cogging issue with the spur gear teeth at the beginning of this thread, and suggested herringbone gears!
I thought that sounded familiar.
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Hmmm. One of the reasons I switched to the BMG from stock was because my prints exhibited the woodgrain pattern. The BMG ended that. The stock extruder was a single gear drive. Before I moved the BMG to a flying extruder mount it used the stock mount at the end of a 750mm bowden tube.
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Here's a single walled vase, PETG, 1.2mm line width, 0.6mm layers, Bondtech BMG extruder:
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@mrehorstdmd that's a
paddlin'woodgrain. -
@alex-cr I have simple parallel vertical lines (not what I'd call wood grain) on my Railcore, but I'm still wondering. It's not ringing, because it's all the way across a side. I've replaced just about the entire hot end, including the Bondtech with another identical one I had. In the entire hot end and moving parts, the only parts I haven't replaced are: the heat sink in the hot end; the belt; the linear rails and carriages. Every change has either had no effect, or made the artifact print all the more clearly (unmasking it some, perhaps).
The other oddity is that it can be improved a fair amount by printing perimeters at break-neck speed. I lowered jerk a LOT and lowered acceleration some to keep the corners from getting bad. Faster speed should not make a motion artifact better. Looking at microscopic images, the extrusion looks like a very nice sine wave of narrower and wider, with a regular period. I know that could be motion but then I'd expect it to vary depending on which stepper/belt was more active in a particular movement direction, which it doesn't. So it looks to me like variation in extrusion.
The reservation I have about "extruder design" is that this is a fairly new problem to me, but I've had the BondTech extruder since day 1. So what changed? Not the dual-gear design.
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@donstauffer
..maybe replacing the needle roller bearing with a brass bearing would help?
They roll off under pressure like a 9-spoke wheel without rim.@all
we could try to put an acceleration sensor to the idler pressure lever and check the reading for countable peaks.
Is it 17 peaks or 9 peaks or just 1 peak per turn? ( 17 teeth, 9 needles or just a wobbling gear) -
@donstauffer If you have lines that are completely consistent, it's likely drivetrain related. I have faint lines that seem to be related to the drivetrain. Timing belts, pulleys, etc. I have a loose hypothesis that my belts have worn out because of trying different tensions, etc. They are a consumable item. Perhaps they need to be replaced much more often than we think.
*not actually a robot
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@sebkritikel said in Vertical lines vs. geared extruders:
FWIW the most consistent outer wall (smoothest) prints I've personally seen come from the Stratasys 1200 series printers with the closed loop Maxon DC motors (excluding all other wall artifacts).
I'm with you on that. We have a couple 900's and a 450 at work that have the same extrusion system. Vertical wall quality is superb even with Ultem. There are ringing issues around holes however
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If you want to determine if it's the extruder then do several test prints changing ONLY the extrusion width. This way the motion system does exactly the same thing every time, but the extruder is moving filament faster as the EW increases. If it's the extruder, the period of your sine wave will decrease (or if you prefer, the frequency will increase) as the extrusion rate increases. If the sine wave stays the same the issue is somewhere in the motion system.
I had the vertical line artifact on my delta in the past and resolved it by replacing the smooth bearing idlers and belt with genuine Gates belt and toothed idlers.
Of course once those artifacts were gone I was able to see the next set of subtler artifacts. And on it goes ... -
@ajdtreyd said in Vertical lines vs. geared extruders:
If you want to determine if it's the extruder then do several test prints changing ONLY the extrusion width. This way the motion system does exactly the same thing every time, but the extruder is moving filament faster as the EW increases. If it's the extruder, the period of your sine wave will decrease (or if you prefer, the frequency will increase) as the extrusion rate increases. If the sine wave stays the same the issue is somewhere in the motion system.
I had the vertical line artifact on my delta in the past and resolved it by replacing the smooth bearing idlers and belt with genuine Gates belt and toothed idlers.
Of course once those artifacts were gone I was able to see the next set of subtler artifacts. And on it goes ...You would have to make large changes in flow to have observable changes in drive gear speed.
