It was worth the cost a few years back. I will have to wait and see a few reviews before considering upgrading. I have a hard time putting my money towards a company that has had almost no interaction with the community for years (that's at least my perception).

Maybe it will be really good and worth it, but PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer and Cura are so good right now, its going to be an uphill battle for Simplify3D.

@leckietech

How many more are you planning on adding? You could use the daughterboard expansions to add up to 4 more PT100/k type thermocouples and should be a lot easier than creating the network you’re describing.

@jay_s_uk

Ya that would be a cool usage for the SBC. I have issues with SBC right now as it doesn't appear to have a high enough polling rate during triggering.

If I was good enough I would consider writing a plugin for it.

@hebigt
This is a bad idea.
Rule of thumb is that machines should not move without you telling it to do so.

Yes you can call your homeall.g file in your config.g file. This is one way to home the printer automatically on start up. Please do not do this.

Depending on your printer setup it could cause major failures/crashes. For instance this would cause the machine to home every time the emergency stop is activated.

@Nordle

If your slicer is configured to use slicer based retraction it will use the updated parameters from the slicer using straight line g code. Specifying retractions with a simple G1 Exxx Fyyy type commands. If you use firmware retraction in the slicer it will send G10 and G11 commands to perform the retraction; RRF will then interpret those and use the parameters from M207.

@giostark

Lets start with the basics. Please post your config.g file for us to take a look at.

If I had to make a guess right now you have two problems, your acceleration and jerk are too high for your extruder setup or you don't have enough current running to the motor.

The video you posted makes it sound like the stepper is missing steps. This would negate the PA and probably cause over extrusion in the corners.

And you have a Bondtech BMG I am assuming? Or a different model?

In my experience S1.2 is way too high for your given set up. S0.5 is more reasonable but maybe still on the high side. As a reference from my similar setup to yours, I use 0.1 for my PA.

I posted how I handle this problem here:

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/31641/how-to-set-heaters-temp-from-prusaslicer-in-start-g?_=1677801339355

@mikeatfhc

Both phases should have similar resistances. In my opinion that amount of difference in the stepper phase resistances clearly shows the stepper is bad. I would replace the stepper before doing anything else.

@giostark

I have one other thought. Measure your filament diameter and ensure there is not interference with the Capricorn tubing. I ended up getting rid of the Capricorn on all of my setups because it caused too much drag on the filament and I was unable to retract without losing steps in the extruder. Or that you are not changing the shape of the filament too much by squeezing it so hard with the BMG.

@reaperrhs

You need to perform heater tuning. See the link below for additional information.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control

@dc42 The binary for the 1LC worked to resolve the issue. Thanks for the fast turn around and I will continue beta.2 testing.

By the way it is a V1.1 version tool board.

I think I may have found a minor issue.
After upgrading to 3.6.0-beta.2 from beta.1, my extruder temperature is very inconsistent. Temps while the machine is just sitting idle will jump around several full degrees and when running a print will jump around about ten full degrees.

I tried turning on heater feedforward to see if it would help but M309 P0 S0.01 had zero effect on the results.

To help troubleshoot I downgraded just the 1LC back to beta.1 and the temp readings went back to being within 1deg. at idle and while up at temp.
Below is a screen shot showing my machine sitting at 180C with beta.1 installed and then uploading beta.2. No other changes made.

My machine is setup as follows.
6HC(SBC)+3HC+1LC+1HCL+1HCL.

So sad to hear about his passing. Thanks for your contribution @deckingman. You will be missed!

@chrishamm
Hoping you or someone else can help me out. I am trying to install the Motion plugin through DWC. I have upgraded to Bookworm (64 bit) and have all of the latest updates and firmware, 3.5.1. I am using a Pi4.

When installing the plugin I am running into an error as seen below. Any ideas?

Everything seems to be working well.

Are there any plans to update the motionwebcamserver plugin to allow it to work with 3.5?

https://github.com/Duet3D/DSF-Plugins/releases

@usinjin

First off, I am no expert with tuning the 1HCLs. That being said I have been using them since they first came out.

I would drop your D value down to D0.1. That will immediately quiet them down, and I found it to have little impact on the performance.

I would also increase your P value. The auto tuning function tried setting my P value down in the 20-ish range like yours and I noticed very poor performance. Just for testing sake I would try a higher number like R100.

The other thing that might help is to post a picture of your tuning graph.

@dc42

Awesome I missed that capability!

@c_ern

While I can't answer all of your questions I have a very similar setup with but with a 1LC V1.2.

1. I believe this is the case. I put a resistor in the wiring because it allowed for more flexibility in the future. May want to wait for others to chime in.
2. I think I was one of the first people to have a version 1.0 1LC on a V2.4 and ran into canbus errors when i ran standard wiring along the cable chain. Others didn't have the same problems I did. I ended up with shielded wiring and ran my Z axis stepper motors outside of the cable chain. That being said I think twisted wires are a minimum requirement for this length of run. You can always twist them yourself.
3. Yes you sure can do this.
4. If you can swing it I would just start with tap (or klicky). The Omron probe was finicky for me and melted several times. I've used the Omron probe, a Chinese version of the Omron, BLtouch, Klicky, and Tap. Klicky and Tap are by far the best.

The tap connects directly to the 1LC; in my case IO2.
Here is my current voron tap config:

;Voron TAP probe setup
M558 P8 C"!20.io2.in" T18000 F150 H5.0 A1 S0.01 B0 R0.0 K0
G31 K0 P25 X0.0 Y0.0 z-0.8

And just for reference here was my Omron config:

;NPN NO switch (stock voron sensor)
M558 P8 C"^0.io5.in" T18000 F600 H5 A3 S0.01 B0 R0.2 K0
G31 K0 P25 X0.0 Y25.0 z2.458					         ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height,

5. I didn't ground the board separately. Sorry can't help much with this one.
6. Not sure on this one, I need to do this still someday.

Hope this helps.

@Mr-Crispin

Yes the roto tool board comes with a connector pack, similar to the other 1LC boards.
.

@Phaedrux

Just did. Unfortunately no change.