I would like to say thank you to this forum and in particualr to @deckingman @mrehorstdmd @Phaedrux for the help in rebuilding my d-bot.
I switched to 3 lead screw using deckingam setup. The bed is guided by only two carts on opposite angles of the printer each cart is made of 3 wheels.
I choose to use a bed with 3 levelling screws ( in the future I would switch to levelling the bed by the lead screws) the levelling screws is mounted using mrehorstdmd setup .
The bed is a 330x340 die cast pei covered 8mm thick. I switched to a 220 volts heating element from Kenovo
Now I cna print on 100% of the bed surface and I swithced off the
This is my first real print and I ma very happy with it I also disabled mesh grid compensation that for now seems useless

I still have to tweak a lot of stuff but the start seems promising!!

I am still trying to understand the bed leveling procedure.

Now what are the differences between G29 and G32 ?
Which part of the configuration this 2 commands read?
If I understand correctly the button in the web interface on "Machine Control " tab called "Auto bed compensation " run a G32 command .
In my case this run a procedure of probing and at the end I can see the mesh grid map, so it seems to me that the G32 command run the bed.g commands, right?

Now , with G29 command all seems to work the same except that the probel ( bltouc) doesn't deploy , so where I can add the deploy routine?

In my other printer ,Marlin based ,I have a script that run G28 and G29 before all the printing , what script should I use for compensate bed in this case?

Thank you for your patience

My config.g part of bltouch
[c];*** BLTouch
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1
M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F200 T5000
M574 E0 S0
G31 P100 X0 Y-20 Z0.91 P1[/c]

And my bed.g
[c]G91
G1 Z6 F200
G90
M98 Pdeployprobe.g
G29 S2
M557 X30:270 Y30:270 S60
G29
M98 Pretractprobe.g[/c]

While I am trying to fix the squareness of the frame I finalized!the Z axis belt system
This is what it came out.
I tried to make the belt running as much as possible around the pulley with this setup all the pulley has 180 degree belt contact.
The 2 tensioners are temporary , I am going to print a support for it
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thank you
Andrea

Thank you all for such great suggestions.
I am still not sure which way to go.

I have a no cantilever 2 lead screw single motors setup , changing to 3?
3 lead screws with one motor: pro lead screw always in sync con need manual adjustment
3 lead screws with independent motor pro automatic leveling of the plane cons a little bit more expensive , need software setup , risk of out of sync motors?
with this setup is bed leveling system still needed or the bed plate can be mounted fixed on the frame? Is it possible , and make it sense, combine mrehorstdmd bed leveling system with 3 motors lead screws setup?
I already own the extra Z motors so costs isn't a variable in this decision.

These are some photos of my printer take a look , any suggestion is appreciated!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7bvnlctmiqushv1/AAB_oR3lea8S2ZBIfeM5EsyUa?dl=0

Other question for D-bot owners.
I have 3 wheels Z guide, is it worth converting y axis also to 3 wheels, I read mixed experience about it.

@minim can you tell some more of your setup do you have some photos for taking inspiration:-).

Thank you all
A.

Thank you for your answer ; i read the wiki many times but many basic concept is supposed as "already know " and not explained from the basics. I am reading the reprap site also and I am starting to understand.
Please can you answer to the last question regarding this subject,
If I want to use a fresh bed level for every print it is sufficient put G32 in the slicing software start script

Hi all.
I am not a very old and experienced 3d printer user,but during this 4 years , from the time I bought my first 3d printer, many things are changed.
When I started ,calibrating the step per unit and feed rate was te only and more "complicated "things to tweak for improve 3d printing quality and precision.
Now , we have a lot of stuff to play with ( pressure advance , jerk, ecc..). and I am quite overwhelmed form all this options.
Would be great to build a "complete guide to 3d printer calibration" collecting in a single place all suggestions and procedures spreaded in this forum and all over the internet.
Is there someone with time and knowledge able to start something like this ?
What do you think?

Hi guys , I am planning to change my D-Bot Corexy Z axis setup. My bed is quite heavy ( 330x330x8 aluminum ) and I would like to manage better the vertical forces applied on the lower ball bearing adding a thrust bearing.
This is what I am thinking about.

I have another question .
I saw people fixing the lead screw both on lower and higher part of the frame with 2 KP08, and in the middle a T8 screw attached to the bed structure. It seems to me an overconstrained structure and I am thinking about using only 2 fixture point bed and lower frame.

Thank you for your time.
Andrea

Thank you for sharing with us.
I have a magnetic sensor from about 1 year and it works flawlessly.
I don't know if laser costs less of magnetic, but the need of a bearing system in the laser sensor affect the simplicity of this device reducing or annulling the advantages over the magnetic one.
IMHO
.
good idea anyway

Hi guys, I am stressing many forum members with all kind of questions on how I could improve my D-bot so I decided to post some photos for let the curious guys see the " responsible " of all my questions

The printer: ( for now)

• Duet wifi ( thx @deckingman for the case)
• changed from cantilevered to 4 point sustained bed
• 3 wheels Z carriage
• 2 lead screw with belt driven by single motor
• Dual 24 v Meanwell PSU
• Switched after some weeks to direct with titan extruder
• Magnetic Duet filament sensor that works great ( I can't understand why duet crew didn't make it available on the market)
• Cable chains on Z and hotend
• Originale Bl touch
• Self designed radial fan for print material that work very well

Upcoming change.

• I bought a 330x340x8 PEI covered here https://clever3d.de/ with 3 regulation point ( thank you @mrehorstdmd )
• New heated bed 220V 750W 300x300 so I'll remove a PSU
• I would like to rework my Z axis that works good but not as good as I would like my actual idea is to shift to 3 lead screw driven by single motor ( thank you @Phaedrux for all the input). I need to decide how many guides to use if stay with the actual 4 or go for 2.

In the future I am tempted to test 3 Z motors for autolevelling but for now I want to follow advise of all the people that suggest me that a good solid printer don't need bed leveling more than occasionally

For me aesthetic is very important so cable wire is a large part of the time spent building this printer,

@engikeneer thank you very much for your input . I think I discovered the problem in a far from perfect printed angle.
I gonna try to check every angle I let you know

I made a pid tuning at 190 degree instead of 240.
changhed the m305 as suggested.
Seems ok for now , let's see.
Thank you all

@dc42
Yes it is correct.
This problem occurred before. I dismantle the HE changed thermistor and cartridge many times and without a clear reason ti starts working again correctly , till yesterday

@droftarts

This is the string suggested the seller where I bought the thermistor.
I can try to change it .

@droftarts @cosmowave
thank you for answering me. The problem arised suddenly so I don't think a config problem.
The thermistor is semitec 104gt-2 , is the same I always use with this printer
I tried to make a pid tuning but it stops because it can reach the set temperature, maybe I can try to make a pid tuning at 180 instead of at 200 for one time.

FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet FIRMWARE_VERSION: 2.05.1 ELECTRONICS: Duet WiFi 1.0 or 1.01 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2020-02-09b1

; Communication and general
M111 S0                             	; Debug off
M550 PDBOT                   		    ; Machine name (P + anything you like)
M551 heather9                        	; Machine password (used for FTP connections)
M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED  	; MAC Address - If you have more than one Duet on your network, they must all have different MAC addresses, so change the last digits
M552 S1           			            ; Enable WiFi
M555 P2                             	; Set output to look like Marlin
M564 H0


;M575 P1 B57600 S1                  	; Comms parameters for PanelDue; Machine configuration
M569 P0 S1               		        ; Drive 0 
M569 P1 S1              		        ; Drive 1 
M569 P2 S0                 		        ; Drive 2 
M569 P3 S0               		        ; Drive 3 
M569 P4 S1                	          	; Drive 4 
M574 X1 Y2 Z0 S0            	     	; set endstop configuration (X1 is at MIN end. Y2 is at MAX end. (active high switch = S1, active low switch= S0)
M667 S1                    		        ; set CoreXY mode

;M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1             	; Set 16x microstepping with interpolation
M92 X100 Y100 Z1000          		    ; Set axis steps/mm. Check that the printer really move as much as you tell it. Not more and not less.

M92 E422:422    		                ; Set extruder steps/mm. Change this to match your extruder.  
M906 X1200 Y1200 Z1300 E800            	; Set motor currents (mA). Increase if motor is to weak. Lower if motor gets too hot. 800-1000 is good for most.

M201 X1500 Y1500 Z400 E4000         	; Accelerations (mm/s^2). The acceleration, speed and jerk is a setting you can alter to try making the printer to print as nice as possible.. 
M203 X15000 Y15000 Z300 E1500       	; Maximum speeds (mm/min)
M566 X600 Y600 Z24 E1200             	; Maximum jerk speeds mm/minute
M208 S0 X334 Y290 Z300            		; set axis maxima (adjust to suit your machine)
M208 S1 X0 Y0 Z0                    	; set axis minima (adjust to make X=0 and Y=0 the edges of the bed)
G21                                 	; Work in millimetres
G90                                 	; Send absolute coordinates...
M83                                 	; ...but relative extruder moves; Z probe
M404 N1.75                              ;spessore fialmento per cprint monitor



;*** You can use S and B parameters to define the parameters of the thermistors you are using. Standard 100k thermistor from E3d is 4388 or 4725.
M305 P0 T100000 B4388 R4700 H0 L0   	; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the bed thermistor ADC correction
M305 P1 T100000 B4267 R4700 H0 L0   	; Put your own H and/or L values here to set the first nozzle thermistor ADC correction

;***Use for autotune. 
M307 H0 A142 C293.5 D5.4 B0 		   ;Autotune result for bed
M307 H1 A588.5 C242.9 D6.7 B0		    ;Autotuen result for first nozzle; Fans
M106 P1 T45 H1			            	; enable thermostatic mode for fan 1 at temp 45 degrees. Fan turns on when P1(extruder 1) is above 45 degrees.; Tool definition
M563 P0 D0 H1                       	; Define tool 0
G10 P0 S0 R0                        	; Set tool 0 operating and standby temperatures
T0                                  	; select first hot end

;*** Fan config
M106 P1 T45 H1
M106 P2 H-1

;*** BLTouch
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1
;M307 H7 A-1 C-1 D-1
M558 P9 H10 R0.2 F100 T7000 A5 B0
M574 E0 S0	
G31 P25 X-31 Y19 Z0.950   ;  OFFSET Z !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Numeri più alti avvicnano al piatto
M376 H15 ; fade compensation limite 15mm
M557 X24:324 Y0:290 S40
M375					         		; Load heightmap.csv


; Manual Bed leveling assistant prerequisite  DA CONTROLLARE
M671 X3.0:321.0:160.0 Y245.70:250.7:-30.0 P0.5  ; in ordine prima tutte le X poi le Y P sta per il passo delle viti M4=0.7 M5=0.5


;*** Autupause
M911 S23 R23 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" 	; Configure automatic saving on power loss
M501					                            ; Load Config-Override.g that is created using M500


;*** Filament sensor
M591 D0 P3 C3 S1 R50:150 L25.5 E3.0 ; prova messa da nuova mm   TOGLIERE ; PER RIATTIVARE
;M591 D0 P3 S23.2 C3 R70:130 E5.0  ; Duet3d sensor for extruder drive 0 is connected to endstop input 3 (E0), 23.5mm/rev, 50%  error detection tolerance, 3mm comparison length
;M591 D0                       ; display filament sensor parameters for extruder drive 0 mm
;D = extruder drive number
;P = filament sensor type. P3 = Duet3D filament monitor without additional filament presence detection switch, P4 = Duet3D filament monitor with switch.
;Snnn = mm of filament fed per complete rotation of the sensor wheel. May be positive or negative.
;C = endstop number (0 = X, 1 = Y, 2 = Z, 3 = E0 etc.). Endstop inputs 5-9 which are on the DueX2 or DueX5 expansion boards cannot be used. Endstop inputs 10-11 on the CONN_LCD connector can be used.
;R = relative tolerance in %, default 20%
;E = minimum extrusion length before a commanded/measured comparison is done, default 3mm

/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*
END OF CONFIG.G
/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*

Suddenly my heater going fault. ( temperature rise too slowly)
I changed the thermistor and heating cartridge with an identical model but the problem remains the same.

I connected an extra thermometer to the hot end and what I see is that the temperature, in reality, reaches 260 but the printer thermometer stops around 196 and doesn't go further.

During cold down the external thermometer register, a fasted drop-down of the temperature than the printer thermometer.

Any idea what could be wrong. The problem arised suddenly after a regular switch off the printer

@Veti In this case it would difficult for me to add more information than what I provided because I didn't know my config file could be involved. The last time I edited it, excluding z offset was many weeks ago, but I didn't notice the defect before, maybe because lastly I printed many "organic" parts Also, the broken belt drift my attention to a hardware problem, I never thought about a configuration problem till all other causes was canceled
Anyway, my printer is now more squared

@Veti My post wasn't a critique for someone. It was just a follow up of my story

@engikeneer

Thank you all for your help. I managed to solve the problem ...but not as expected:-)
I reprinted main frame parts. disassembled all the printer and reassembled as perfectly as I can. Changed the belts
Then I printed the test part and it come out exactly as the previous one!!
At first, I thought about an error in the stl so I designed another one by my self but also this one come out skewed.
Then a flash in mi mind! how a can a part come exactly skewed ass the previous one even after building and rebuilding the printer? I checked the configuration file and the m92 was
M92 X101 Y100 Z1000 !!!!
Maybe changing stuff in config I mistyped a 1 and so the problem suddenly appeared!
M92 X100 Y100 Z1000 and now print a 300x300 square with diagonals in 0.5mm tolerance.

@engikeneer thank you very much for your input . I think I discovered the problem in a far from perfect printed angle.
I gonna try to check every angle I let you know

@Veti Yes I know what a parallelogram is I understand what my problem is but I misread your post as " your frame does not have TO HAVE 90 degree angles" so this was
confusing me