I would like to say thank you to this forum and in particualr to @deckingman @mrehorstdmd @Phaedrux for the help in rebuilding my d-bot.
I switched to 3 lead screw using deckingam setup. The bed is guided by only two carts on opposite angles of the printer each cart is made of 3 wheels.
I choose to use a bed with 3 levelling screws ( in the future I would switch to levelling the bed by the lead screws) the levelling screws is mounted using mrehorstdmd setup .
The bed is a 330x340 die cast pei covered 8mm thick. I switched to a 220 volts heating element from Kenovo
Now I cna print on 100% of the bed surface and I swithced off the
This is my first real print and I ma very happy with it I also disabled mesh grid compensation that for now seems useless

I still have to tweak a lot of stuff but the start seems promising!!

I am still trying to understand the bed leveling procedure.

Now what are the differences between G29 and G32 ?
Which part of the configuration this 2 commands read?
If I understand correctly the button in the web interface on "Machine Control " tab called "Auto bed compensation " run a G32 command .
In my case this run a procedure of probing and at the end I can see the mesh grid map, so it seems to me that the G32 command run the bed.g commands, right?

Now , with G29 command all seems to work the same except that the probel ( bltouc) doesn't deploy , so where I can add the deploy routine?

In my other printer ,Marlin based ,I have a script that run G28 and G29 before all the printing , what script should I use for compensate bed in this case?

Thank you for your patience

My config.g part of bltouch
[c];*** BLTouch
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1
M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F200 T5000
M574 E0 S0
G31 P100 X0 Y-20 Z0.91 P1[/c]

And my bed.g
[c]G91
G1 Z6 F200
G90
M98 Pdeployprobe.g
G29 S2
M557 X30:270 Y30:270 S60
G29
M98 Pretractprobe.g[/c]

Thank you all for helping me.
I solved opening the case of the magnetic sensor and cleaning it. A lot of debris of plastic was around the ball bearings.
I made 2 hours of printing without issue.
Thank you

While I am trying to fix the squareness of the frame I finalized!the Z axis belt system
This is what it came out.
I tried to make the belt running as much as possible around the pulley with this setup all the pulley has 180 degree belt contact.
The 2 tensioners are temporary , I am going to print a support for it
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thank you
Andrea

Hi all.
I am not a very old and experienced 3d printer user,but during this 4 years , from the time I bought my first 3d printer, many things are changed.
When I started ,calibrating the step per unit and feed rate was te only and more "complicated "things to tweak for improve 3d printing quality and precision.
Now , we have a lot of stuff to play with ( pressure advance , jerk, ecc..). and I am quite overwhelmed form all this options.
Would be great to build a "complete guide to 3d printer calibration" collecting in a single place all suggestions and procedures spreaded in this forum and all over the internet.
Is there someone with time and knowledge able to start something like this ?
What do you think?

Thank you for your answer ; i read the wiki many times but many basic concept is supposed as "already know " and not explained from the basics. I am reading the reprap site also and I am starting to understand.
Please can you answer to the last question regarding this subject,
If I want to use a fresh bed level for every print it is sufficient put G32 in the slicing software start script

Thank you all for such great suggestions.
I am still not sure which way to go.

I have a no cantilever 2 lead screw single motors setup , changing to 3?
3 lead screws with one motor: pro lead screw always in sync con need manual adjustment
3 lead screws with independent motor pro automatic leveling of the plane cons a little bit more expensive , need software setup , risk of out of sync motors?
with this setup is bed leveling system still needed or the bed plate can be mounted fixed on the frame? Is it possible , and make it sense, combine mrehorstdmd bed leveling system with 3 motors lead screws setup?
I already own the extra Z motors so costs isn't a variable in this decision.

These are some photos of my printer take a look , any suggestion is appreciated!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7bvnlctmiqushv1/AAB_oR3lea8S2ZBIfeM5EsyUa?dl=0

Other question for D-bot owners.
I have 3 wheels Z guide, is it worth converting y axis also to 3 wheels, I read mixed experience about it.

@minim can you tell some more of your setup do you have some photos for taking inspiration:-).

Thank you all
A.

@engikeneer thank you very much for your input . I think I discovered the problem in a far from perfect printed angle.
I gonna try to check every angle I let you know

Thank you for sharing with us.
I have a magnetic sensor from about 1 year and it works flawlessly.
I don't know if laser costs less of magnetic, but the need of a bearing system in the laser sensor affect the simplicity of this device reducing or annulling the advantages over the magnetic one.
IMHO
.
good idea anyway

Hi guys, I am stressing many forum members with all kind of questions on how I could improve my D-bot so I decided to post some photos for let the curious guys see the " responsible " of all my questions

The printer: ( for now)

• Duet wifi ( thx @deckingman for the case)
• changed from cantilevered to 4 point sustained bed
• 3 wheels Z carriage
• 2 lead screw with belt driven by single motor
• Dual 24 v Meanwell PSU
• Switched after some weeks to direct with titan extruder
• Magnetic Duet filament sensor that works great ( I can't understand why duet crew didn't make it available on the market)
• Cable chains on Z and hotend
• Originale Bl touch
• Self designed radial fan for print material that work very well

Upcoming change.

• I bought a 330x340x8 PEI covered here https://clever3d.de/ with 3 regulation point ( thank you @mrehorstdmd )
• New heated bed 220V 750W 300x300 so I'll remove a PSU
• I would like to rework my Z axis that works good but not as good as I would like my actual idea is to shift to 3 lead screw driven by single motor ( thank you @Phaedrux for all the input). I need to decide how many guides to use if stay with the actual 4 or go for 2.

In the future I am tempted to test 3 Z motors for autolevelling but for now I want to follow advise of all the people that suggest me that a good solid printer don't need bed leveling more than occasionally

For me aesthetic is very important so cable wire is a large part of the time spent building this printer,

@claustro up

Thank you all for helping me.
I solved opening the case of the magnetic sensor and cleaning it. A lot of debris of plastic was around the ball bearings.
I made 2 hours of printing without issue.
Thank you

@lo-fi Thank you all for your help.
I printed your mod and another original one using a SLA printer I'll remove the sensor and I'll check it.
I never had an issue in not using the PTFE tube because the sensor is mechanically fixed to the extruder, anyway I'll can add it .
thank you

Hi guys,
I am having a lot of random false alarm with my filament sensor. It worked like a charm in the past.
The typical behavior is that the min % gradually, very fast, goes to 0% and stays there forever event the filament extrusion remains regular.
The error appears in almost every kind of print and print materials
During printing the led of the filament sensor is almost green but in specific head movment it become first off and then red.
Here a video that show it

https://youtu.be/3U9-kPt0wGs

my machine:
Board: Duet 2 WiFi (2WiFi)
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.4.0rc2 (2022-02-22)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.26

15/5/2022, 10:46:01	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 132 agc 77, measured sensitivity 30.31mm/rev, min 0% max 123% over 51.3mm
15/5/2022, 10:46:00	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 132 agc 77, measured sensitivity 30.31mm/rev, min 0% max 123% over 51.3mm
15/5/2022, 10:45:58	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 132 agc 77, measured sensitivity 30.31mm/rev, min 0% max 123% over 51.3mm
15/5/2022, 10:45:57	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 132 agc 77, measured sensitivity 30.03mm/rev, min 0% max 122% over 48.3mm
15/5/2022, 10:45:55	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 132 agc 77, measured sensitivity 27.68mm/rev, min 38% max 112% over 44.5mm
15/5/2022, 10:45:53	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 132 agc 77, measured sensitivity 27.68mm/rev, min 38% max 112% over 44.5mm
15/5/2022, 10:45:52	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 132 agc 77, measured sensitivity 26.11mm/rev, min 53% max 106% over 40.5mm
15/5/2022, 10:45:44	M591 D0
Duet3D rotating magnet filament monitor v3 on pin e0stop, disabled, sensitivity 25.00mm/rev, allow 50% to 150%, check printing moves every 3.0mm, version 3, mag 131 agc 77, measured sensitivity 26.35mm/rev, min 54% max 107% over 34.5mm

this is my filament line config.

M591 D0 P3 C"e0_stop" S1 R50:150 L25 E3.0

this is my hardware setup

The only thing I changed lately in my setup is the extruder switching from a E3d V6 to a Revo six

@claustro Any help?

@dc42 Thank you very much for your answer and all the help you are giving to us.
I collected the samples as you suggested. Here the results.

do these results make any sense?
I am reading the documentation about input shaping but I can't understand which input sharper method apply. ( ZVD, ZVDD , ZVDDD ecc...)

Will something like this work or the frequency is too high?
M593 P"zvd" F139

Hi all ,
I installed a LIS3DH ( waiting for a LIS3SDH ) on my DBOT corexy style printer
this is my first result running G1 X-50 G4 S2 M956 P0 S1000 A0 G4 P10 G1 X50 F20000.
Can someone explain if this result has some sense and how to interpret it?
0_2022-02-24_10.46.14.csv

@dc42 Thank you very much for this rocket-fast answer!

Excuse me for my dumb question.
this is my setup

Board: Duet 2 WiFi (2WiFi)
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.3 (2021-06-15)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.26

which files do I have to update if I would like to try the beta firmware

 Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin512 KB
 Duet2Firmware_SBC.bin438 KB
 Duet3Firmware_EXP1HCL.bin145 KB
 Duet3Firmware_EXP1HCLv0_3.bin145 KB
 Duet3Firmware_EXP1XD.bin113 KB
 Duet3Firmware_EXP3HC.bin129 KB
 Duet3Firmware_MB6HC.bin679 KB
 Duet3Firmware_MB6XD.bin667 KB
 Duet3Firmware_Mini5plus.uf21.4 MB
 Duet3Firmware_SAMMYC21.bin121 KB
 Duet3Firmware_TOOL1LC.bin128 KB
 Duet3_SDiap32_MB6XD.bin19 KB
 DuetMaestroFirmware.bin491 KB
 DuetWebControl-SD.zip8.66 MB
 Source code (zip)
 Source code (tar.gz)

Thank you

Update .
I reinstalled the resistor and the old bltouch classic , al works as expected .
At this time I am thinking about a defective bltouch

If I connect to brown and red wire to a 5 volts power supply sometimes bl touch
skip self-test and goes in error blinking red