I would like to say thank you to this forum and in particualr to @deckingman @mrehorstdmd @Phaedrux for the help in rebuilding my d-bot.
I switched to 3 lead screw using deckingam setup. The bed is guided by only two carts on opposite angles of the printer each cart is made of 3 wheels.
I choose to use a bed with 3 levelling screws ( in the future I would switch to levelling the bed by the lead screws) the levelling screws is mounted using mrehorstdmd setup .
The bed is a 330x340 die cast pei covered 8mm thick. I switched to a 220 volts heating element from Kenovo
Now I cna print on 100% of the bed surface and I swithced off the
This is my first real print and I ma very happy with it I also disabled mesh grid compensation that for now seems useless

I still have to tweak a lot of stuff but the start seems promising!!

I am still trying to understand the bed leveling procedure.

Now what are the differences between G29 and G32 ?
Which part of the configuration this 2 commands read?
If I understand correctly the button in the web interface on "Machine Control " tab called "Auto bed compensation " run a G32 command .
In my case this run a procedure of probing and at the end I can see the mesh grid map, so it seems to me that the G32 command run the bed.g commands, right?

Now , with G29 command all seems to work the same except that the probel ( bltouc) doesn't deploy , so where I can add the deploy routine?

In my other printer ,Marlin based ,I have a script that run G28 and G29 before all the printing , what script should I use for compensate bed in this case?

Thank you for your patience

My config.g part of bltouch
[c];*** BLTouch
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1
M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F200 T5000
M574 E0 S0
G31 P100 X0 Y-20 Z0.91 P1[/c]

And my bed.g
[c]G91
G1 Z6 F200
G90
M98 Pdeployprobe.g
G29 S2
M557 X30:270 Y30:270 S60
G29
M98 Pretractprobe.g[/c]

While I am trying to fix the squareness of the frame I finalized!the Z axis belt system
This is what it came out.
I tried to make the belt running as much as possible around the pulley with this setup all the pulley has 180 degree belt contact.
The 2 tensioners are temporary , I am going to print a support for it
Any suggestion will be appreciated.
Thank you
Andrea

Thank you all for such great suggestions.
I am still not sure which way to go.

I have a no cantilever 2 lead screw single motors setup , changing to 3?
3 lead screws with one motor: pro lead screw always in sync con need manual adjustment
3 lead screws with independent motor pro automatic leveling of the plane cons a little bit more expensive , need software setup , risk of out of sync motors?
with this setup is bed leveling system still needed or the bed plate can be mounted fixed on the frame? Is it possible , and make it sense, combine mrehorstdmd bed leveling system with 3 motors lead screws setup?
I already own the extra Z motors so costs isn't a variable in this decision.

These are some photos of my printer take a look , any suggestion is appreciated!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7bvnlctmiqushv1/AAB_oR3lea8S2ZBIfeM5EsyUa?dl=0

Other question for D-bot owners.
I have 3 wheels Z guide, is it worth converting y axis also to 3 wheels, I read mixed experience about it.

@minim can you tell some more of your setup do you have some photos for taking inspiration:-).

Thank you all
A.

Thank you for your answer ; i read the wiki many times but many basic concept is supposed as "already know " and not explained from the basics. I am reading the reprap site also and I am starting to understand.
Please can you answer to the last question regarding this subject,
If I want to use a fresh bed level for every print it is sufficient put G32 in the slicing software start script

Hi all.
I am not a very old and experienced 3d printer user,but during this 4 years , from the time I bought my first 3d printer, many things are changed.
When I started ,calibrating the step per unit and feed rate was te only and more "complicated "things to tweak for improve 3d printing quality and precision.
Now , we have a lot of stuff to play with ( pressure advance , jerk, ecc..). and I am quite overwhelmed form all this options.
Would be great to build a "complete guide to 3d printer calibration" collecting in a single place all suggestions and procedures spreaded in this forum and all over the internet.
Is there someone with time and knowledge able to start something like this ?
What do you think?

Hi guys , I am planning to change my D-Bot Corexy Z axis setup. My bed is quite heavy ( 330x330x8 aluminum ) and I would like to manage better the vertical forces applied on the lower ball bearing adding a thrust bearing.
This is what I am thinking about.

I have another question .
I saw people fixing the lead screw both on lower and higher part of the frame with 2 KP08, and in the middle a T8 screw attached to the bed structure. It seems to me an overconstrained structure and I am thinking about using only 2 fixture point bed and lower frame.

Thank you for your time.
Andrea

Thank you for sharing with us.
I have a magnetic sensor from about 1 year and it works flawlessly.
I don't know if laser costs less of magnetic, but the need of a bearing system in the laser sensor affect the simplicity of this device reducing or annulling the advantages over the magnetic one.
IMHO
.
good idea anyway

Hi guys, I am stressing many forum members with all kind of questions on how I could improve my D-bot so I decided to post some photos for let the curious guys see the " responsible " of all my questions

The printer: ( for now)

• Duet wifi ( thx @deckingman for the case)
• changed from cantilevered to 4 point sustained bed
• 3 wheels Z carriage
• 2 lead screw with belt driven by single motor
• Dual 24 v Meanwell PSU
• Switched after some weeks to direct with titan extruder
• Magnetic Duet filament sensor that works great ( I can't understand why duet crew didn't make it available on the market)
• Cable chains on Z and hotend
• Originale Bl touch
• Self designed radial fan for print material that work very well

Upcoming change.

• I bought a 330x340x8 PEI covered here https://clever3d.de/ with 3 regulation point ( thank you @mrehorstdmd )
• New heated bed 220V 750W 300x300 so I'll remove a PSU
• I would like to rework my Z axis that works good but not as good as I would like my actual idea is to shift to 3 lead screw driven by single motor ( thank you @Phaedrux for all the input). I need to decide how many guides to use if stay with the actual 4 or go for 2.

In the future I am tempted to test 3 Z motors for autolevelling but for now I want to follow advise of all the people that suggest me that a good solid printer don't need bed leveling more than occasionally

For me aesthetic is very important so cable wire is a large part of the time spent building this printer,

@engikeneer thank you very much for your input . I think I discovered the problem in a far from perfect printed angle.
I gonna try to check every angle I let you know

@Veti In this case it would difficult for me to add more information than what I provided because I didn't know my config file could be involved. The last time I edited it, excluding z offset was many weeks ago, but I didn't notice the defect before, maybe because lastly I printed many "organic" parts Also, the broken belt drift my attention to a hardware problem, I never thought about a configuration problem till all other causes was canceled
Anyway, my printer is now more squared

@Veti My post wasn't a critique for someone. It was just a follow up of my story

@engikeneer

Thank you all for your help. I managed to solve the problem ...but not as expected:-)
I reprinted main frame parts. disassembled all the printer and reassembled as perfectly as I can. Changed the belts
Then I printed the test part and it come out exactly as the previous one!!
At first, I thought about an error in the stl so I designed another one by my self but also this one come out skewed.
Then a flash in mi mind! how a can a part come exactly skewed ass the previous one even after building and rebuilding the printer? I checked the configuration file and the m92 was
M92 X101 Y100 Z1000 !!!!
Maybe changing stuff in config I mistyped a 1 and so the problem suddenly appeared!
M92 X100 Y100 Z1000 and now print a 300x300 square with diagonals in 0.5mm tolerance.

@engikeneer thank you very much for your input . I think I discovered the problem in a far from perfect printed angle.
I gonna try to check every angle I let you know

@Veti Yes I know what a parallelogram is I understand what my problem is but I misread your post as " your frame does not have TO HAVE 90 degree angles" so this was
confusing me

I am missing something.
Phaedrux told me to square EG and EF so if I understand correctly he is holding me that the angle between EG and EF must be 90 isn't it?
I measured the distance between EF and NG and it is constant at every point.
So I am assuming it EF and EG are parallels.
This is true for all the part of my frame
so AB, BP,PQ,QA.
So I thought that the problem is that my frame is skewed as I sketch in my post above.

I really cant' understand why the frame don't have to be at 90 degree

Can you tell me a practical process for "square " EG and EF other than measuring distances if the angle isn't the problem?

Thank you for your help.
My situation is this .

This is face 5 ( x/y top plane). I can't understand best way to fix this.

The printed part come from another printer and seems ok.

I am rechecking all the structure but I am missing something .
I'll try to explain my situation.

Assuming the d-bot is a dice it have 6 faces each one delimitated by 4 vslot peaces

1 left ( AEQR)
2 back (AGBL)
3 right (BFPS)
4 front (NPOQ)
5 bottom (RLSO)
6 top (GFNE)

I measured the distance between the vertical parts of the frame
A-Q
A-B
B-P
P-Q
All are the same so they should be parallel

I measured the diagonal on the top ( face 5) here I have a small differences of about 1.5mm between the 2

But when I measure with a 90-degree square the angle EG and GF thera arent at 90 degrees with a maximum difference of about 0.75 degrees that produce a difference of about 2mm at the and of the square.

I don't know if this is somehow clear
From where I can start solving this?

thank you very much for your help, I am gonna re-crimp the cables