Posts made by Corexy

@deckingman

Hi Ian, how you been old fella?

The cameras are for my rural property, which has no power. My home where I live (and print) not only has power, we also have internet and hot running water. It's amazing all the shit we're getting these days!

Just winding you up... We've just had a few issues on the farm recently with trespassers and thieving, and even a crazy bloody real estate agent coming on the place and leaving me notes. It's time to catch them in the act!

I share your fears about the border. This "covid thing" is like a blank check for pollies, and don't even get me started on the media coverage. It's like everyone caught Stockholm syndrome rather than covid.

@phaedrux

How can I post my config.g without access to the DWC? I'll just have to set up the usb cable and go through the connection procedure again I guess. I certainly didn't change my config.g files, this thing's got a mind of its own sometimes.

I'm very busy with work this week, so I'll get back to it soon. Thank you in advance for all your help.

@arhi

Mate I'm a bit more resilient than that, but it's time to be well aware of the possibility down here. No use having one's head in the sand. I'm mostly interested in how to protect the retirement fund these days.

Don't worry about the emus, they're the last of your problems. It's the "dropbears" you've got to worry about...

@dc42

Here's what I'm getting.

Literally nothing has been touched or changed since I used it last. The IP address shown on the paneldue is neither the IP address on my laptop that links to the DWC, nor the IP address of the mobile phone that I use as a wifi hotspot. I have no idea why that would change... it's not like I have the computer skills to go in there and change it lol.

I've got no DWC at this stage, and I've got to pull a cover off (and clean the bench, but not the end of the world) to get at the USB plug on the board. Can I do anything via the paneldue to get it connecting again?

Home and other functions work via the paneldue by the way.

I should have known better than to mention it, more so just worrying a little openly as it is getting a bit heavy and I have 2 conscription age sons.

We've given up on the phone idea, and just gone with 2 of these, which we can claim on tax:

https://www.thegoodguys.com.au/uniden-4g-wire-free-full-hd-security-camera-solo4gkit

Of course they are made in China, but they're only 100 or so that an ebay cheapy, and Uniden has always been a good brand down here.

@arhi

Chinese telecommunications is a dirty word down under at the moment, I'm reluctant to use much of theirs, which is pretty much all of them. Makes it hard.

Then there's the little matter that we're literally one little incident away from a shooting war with them right now... maybe I can find something from Korea or Taiwan while they're still there.

@siam

Thank you.

I should have mentioned that it's rural Australia on a farm with no power.

Phone signal is OK, not great.

I'd love something that was in something like a waterproof junction box or whatever with antennas and the sim card port, so I could bolt it to a post or something with a solar panel, then connect the phones/cameras to it via wifi.

Hi all,

Odd question, but I'm sure it'll be easy for our tech heads here.

I have a rural property and we're having some trouble with thieves/vandals. There's no power, but there is phone signal.

Farm cams with back to base are expensive here, but I'm looking at trying that Alfred app with some of Galaxy S5's (waterproof) on solar chargers. We've had a little fiddle back at the house connected to our home wifi and it looks promising.

Question is, how would I get internet access out on the property? I can set one of the phones up as a mobile hotspot with a cheap sim card and connect a couple more to it, but the signal isn't best.

Is there some sort of cheaper Banggood etc router/extender/point of access that I can put a sim in with some sort of cheap data plan, then connect the phones to that?

The free app looks alright, and for a small yearly fee I can have higher res and a month of history storage or something like that. I can even flick a switch and yell and swear at them in real time, looking forward to that.

Please advise how I can do this on a micro budget.

Thank you

@droftarts

Hi Ian, how you been?

No, the blue light is flashing on and off, which I figured was no good.

The IP address shouldn't have changed. This thing seems to go wrong if you leave it without using it for months.

I have to pull the bottom plate off the printer to access the usb, I'll clean the bench off and make a job of it soon.

Thank you,

Neil.

Hi all, been a while.

Done it again, left it sitting idle for a long time and now I want to use it, it won't play dice.

It's starting up and seems to be connecting at the printer end, but the DWC won't open on the computer.

Absolutely nothing has changed since I last used it and it worked fine, it's a fickle bugger lol. It's a Duet 2 board with the last firmware version. Been pretty reliable generally.

Can't see anything in the docs specifically relating to this... where would I start?

Cheers in advance for any assistance.

I've never used a clone, but I have no problem paying for the original ON PRINCIPLE.

We all whine about jobs going over seas, but at the same time we want good pay...there's only one way that goes, higher prices but also better quality. The Duet boards are a classic example, also cloned by the way.

At them moment my life has been drastically changed, and my industry (Australian beef) was viciously attacked by China as a warning shot just for asking "what the fk happened?"

I'll give them as little as humanely possible until they lift their game. I don't think it's a cheap shot to mention the ethics of stolen IP, in fact it seems poor form not to acknowledge it.

When buying Chinese clones, you are buying STOLEN ideas executed poorly.

Any of us here would scream absolute blue murder if we invented something and went through all the drama and expense of bringing a product to market, only to have clones pop up everywhere. I'm sure we'd see it differently then.

M307 H0
Heater 0 model: gain 149.3, time constant 841.4, dead time 0.4, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 23.6, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P2289.7, I119.068, D704.4 Computed PID parameters for load change:

M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 589.7, time constant 308.5, dead time 4.4, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 23.9, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P21.0, I0.568, D65.4 Computed PID parameters for load change: P21.

This is what I got:

M307 H0
Heater 0 model: gain 149.3, time constant 841.4, dead time 0.4, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 23.6, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P2289.7, I119.068, D704.4
Computed PID parameters for load change:

M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 589.7, time constant 308.5, dead time 4.4, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 23.9, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P21.0, I0.568, D65.4
Computed PID parameters for load change: P21.

It would seem that M500 didn't work?

M500
Warning: No M501 command was executed in config.g

@dc42 said in PID Controlled Heated Bed:

@Corexy said in PID Controlled Heated Bed:

While I'm waiting for the hot end to cool, I'm running the bed test (M303 H1 S240). But I've left these as is for now, is that correct?
M307 H0 A144.9 C625.3 D1.0 B0

The D1.0 value looks rather low for a bed heater, but not impossible for a silicone heater with the thermistor embedded within it. Is the bed temperature stable, or oscillating?

The A and C values look reasonable.

It's always been pretty solid to be honest. I've been chasing a bit of Z banding from the start when I built it, but it's starting to look like it might be mechanical.

I'm running M307 H0 S140 on the bed right now, so my understanding is that I run M307 H0 to see the test results, then M500 to save them in the config.g?

@deckingman said in PID Controlled Heated Bed:

@Corexy Hi Mate,

Looks like you are already using PID on the bed because the "B" parameter for H0 (the bed heater) is set to 0. For Bang-Bang you'd use B1.

True?! Cheers Ian.

So I'll just run up the PID tuning via M303? I'm wondering how any residual plastic in my nozzle will handle 350 degC? I'll unload the filament at least.

While I'm waiting for the hot end to cool, I'm running the bed test (M303 H1 S240). But I've left these as is for now, is that correct?

M307 H0 A144.9 C625.3 D1.0 B0

After messing around with my Z axis a bit on my old printer, I remembered my bed might still be set for bang bang control as I had initially set it up, meaning to get back to it later. It has the original Keenovo thermistor.

My hot end is definitely set up for PID, but it's using a 4 wire PT100. I've just upped the temp limit to 350degC, as I've got a new Microswiss all metal hot end in there and want to print some PC a bit hotter.

Here's the heater section in my config.g (firmware 2.05):

; Heaters
M143 S350 ; Set maximum extruder temperature to 350C
M143 H0 S140 ; Set maximum bed temperature to 140C
M305 P0 T100000 B4000 C0 R4700 L0 H0 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M305 P1 X200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 and remap it to channel 200
M307 H0 A144.9 C625.3 D1.0 B0
M307 H1 A892.1 C396.5 D6.4 V24.3 B0

H1 the hot end, H0 the bed.

Can/should I change the bed to PID? I do get a bit of Z banding, and the printer can be a little "bindy". I hoped it might help.

Once again I'm stuck at the wiki, as it seems things might have moved on from what I set up 4 years ago.

All help is appreciated thanks

@Hytek said in Not a Duet question, large print surface question:

@Corexy As soon as I have a chance to test it I will update the post. Options seem to be pretty limited for larger format printers at the moment. Kind of a case of take what you can get.

I'm kind of wishing I went with 300x300, but I did pull it up at 400x400 for just that reason.

Heater mats jump right up in price too.

@Hytek said in Not a Duet question, large print surface question:

Just an update on this topic. The only place I have had any luck so far is on AliExpress. Though they do not list the size I required they were more than happy to accommodate. The process to finally order is a bit of a PITA as it is not a stock line in their store.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_dSRK8LJ?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.209a3e5fIe2hQc

I ended up purchasing 3 of these to get one complete set plus a spare print surface. This came to round figures $200 AUD which I think equates to $4 USD

Anyway, hope this will help someone else who has a large printer

I've heard good things about this sellers build plates and his service, and am looking at one of these in 400x400 for my own upcoming build.

It will be good to hear how it works out for you.

@davidvh86 said in Plain old inductive sensor for Z height?:

@Corexy

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5CH491/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

out of stock but look for LJ18A3-8-Z/AX

If you havent got a plate yet check out ezflex

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezflex2-flex-plate-smooth-or-textured-pei-coating/

Thank you.

So that's an 18mm diameter body on that one? Isn't that the one that triggers around 8mm from the bed?

@fcwilt said in Plain old inductive sensor for Z height?:

Hi,

On my printers I use IR "beam break" devices for my end stop sensors.

I install them on the Z axis as well and use that for Z homing.

I am currently using BLTouch v3.0 devices for my Z probe and that is used for setting the Z=0 datum and creating the height map.

Many folks use inductive sensors for their Z probe but try to find one that does not output a voltage when inactive and pulls the output to ground when active.

I recently ordered one just to see if they can work on my printer. The silence would be preferred to the click-click of the BLTouch.

Frederick

Do you have a link to the one you ordered please?

Thank you all for your advice.