@JayT
I first had plain bearings that were changed to linear ball bearings. But install branded bearings here. I once had cheap bearings for Z that worked very badly. You notice it when you move the separated bearing by hand. They have an uneven, choppy running. Especially when changing direction.
Which cannot be checked when installed:
Put the bearing on the rod and tilt it until it starts running on its own.
Then tilt the rod to the other direction.
On the subject of tilting or distortion of the axle:
Push the axis to one end and check whether the axis comes to rest on both sides at the same time.
Push alternately on one side or the other.
Posts made by DIY-O-Sphere
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RE: Gap in printing concentric circles-(CW side)
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RE: Gap in printing concentric circles-(CW side)
@JayT
This behavior can be based on binding of the linear bearings or skewed axles.
I had the identical issue. After changing the bearings to higher quality ones, the problem was solved.
Remove the belts and move the axles by hand. they should not snap when the direction is changed.
This may be caused by linear axles not being aligned exactly parallel.
Can you show pictures of the mechanics?Edit:
You can also see that the wall thickness varies a lot.
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RE: Belt/idler issue and motors temperature
@Arminas said in Belt/idler issue and motors temperature:
I guess it's some kind of mechanical misalignment - when printhead moves in one direction, belt goes up to the upper flange of bearing stack. When printhead moves in opposite direction, belt slips down and jumps on the bottom flange. Any ideas?
The axle of the pulley is not perpendicular to the running direction of the belt.
The support probably consists of an upper and a lower plate. If they are only slightly offset from each other, this causes the problem. -
RE: home z bug fix
@Adamrobot
This has nothing to do with a problem in the power supply unit.
You have to check whether the heating cartridge is made for 12V or 24V.
Either check the marking on the sleeve or measure the internal resistance.
In general 24v supply voltage would be an advantage. However, you then also have to replace the heating bed and maybe the fans. -
RE: Please help understanding coordinated (bed, nozzle, ABl, ....)
@izeman
Please note:
The homing files have to be adapted as well.
Otherwise the print head will move in the wrong direction during the homing process -
RE: Duet conversion
@droftarts said in Duet conversion:
@DIY-O-Sphere that’s normal for a delta.
Sorry, I missed that.....
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RE: Duet conversion
@Legrand said in Duet conversion:
; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1 ; set minimum ZMost of the axis limits are missing......
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RE: NodeDSF : Interface nodes for Node-Red (V1.1.11 - 06-10-23).
@MintyTrebor
This should not be a criticism rather meant as a help for others.
And it's a bit strange that the latest image contains such old versions of node.js.... -
RE: NodeDSF : Interface nodes for Node-Red (V1.1.11 - 06-10-23).
@MintyTrebor
I would like to share my experience with installing NodeDSF.
I am running Node-Red in a Docker container on a PI4.
It is important not to load the latest Node-Red image when setting up the container.
If you do, NodeDSF will not install. (Incompatible node.js version).
With nodered/node-red:3.1.0-18 as image it worked.
Info about specific images are here https://github.com/node-red/node-red-docker
It took me hours to figure this out.... -
RE: High temp heated bed insulation
I use a ceramic mat wrapped in aluminum foil. Up to 240°C current, you can insulate it with kapton tape.
The mats are used in ovens or for heating fireplaces, so should not pose a health problem. -
RE: 12864 LCD on Lulzbot Workhorse
@SonnyD1
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/23034/12864-display-st7920-on-duet-3-mini5
But you have to adapt the input wiring.....
I can provide the schematic for the WIFI -
RE: Duet 2 Wifi 3 Heater control using bed output + messed up tools
@mikep91
The tool count starts with 0.
So P0 Is tool1 -
RE: Duet 2 Wifi 3 Heater control using bed output + messed up tools
I suspect the firmware is confused because it is not a complete configuration.
Maybe you can describe what you want to do.
As I understand it, you only want to control 3 heaters? -
RE: Duet 2 Wifi 3 Heater control using bed output + messed up tools
; Heaters M140 H-1 ; disable heated bed (overrides default heater mapping) M308 S0 P"spi.cs3" Y"rtd-max31865" ; configure sensor 0 as PT100 on pin spi.cs3 M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create nozzle heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0 M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C M308 S1 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtd-max31865" ; configure sensor 1 as thermocouple via CS pin spi.cs1 M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1 M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C M308 S2 P"spi.cs2" Y"rtd-max31865" ; configure sensor 2 as thermocouple via CS pin spi.cs2 M950 H2 C"e1heat" T2 ; create nozzle heater output on e1heat and map it to sensor 2 M307 H2 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit M143 H2 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 2 to 280C ; Tools M563 P0 H0 F0 ; define tool 1 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 1 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 1 active and standby temperatures to 0C M563 P1 H1 F0 ; define tool 2 G10 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 2 axis offsets G10 P1 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 2 active and standby temperatures to 0C M563 P2 H2 F0 ; define tool 3 G10 P2 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 3 axis offsets G10 P2 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 3 active and standby temperatures to 0C
Try that
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RE: Duet 2 Wifi 3 Heater control using bed output + messed up tools
@mikep91
You are mapping heater1 to the bed.... -
RE: Duet 2 Wifi 3 Heater control using bed output + messed up tools
; Heaters
M140 H1 ; disable heated bed (overrides default heater mapping)should be
M140 H-1 -
RE: BIQU Microprobe
@jens55
If you really want to know, you need a dial gauge.
The problem is that with every measurement the Z-axis is moved.
There is always some form of backlash. In addition, there are also statistical deviations.
Especially with a light granty, I would expect this to be more noticeable. On a machine where the bed moves in z, the weight of the print bed can be an advantage because it preloads the z-axis.
That is why a thousandth of a mm is never measurable on a hobby machine. You would need much more massive and precise mechanics for that.
Also, please don't look for one hundredth of a mm..... be satisfied if you get to about half of a tenth. You are trying to achieve an accuracy that our standard printers do not offer mechanically.
If your measurements with the BLT are correct, they are more than sufficient....
By the way, I also print my 1st layer with 0.1mm and a BLT V2. I print on FR4.
I have noticed that it degenerates after 3-4 prints at approx. 100°C.
The adhesion is then very spotty.
In my case, it does not help to clean the surface. Only sanding really solves the problem.
Until I realised this, I also spent ages optimising the 1st layer height! -
RE: pinout of TEMP_DB on Maestro
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