Best posts made by Hergonoway

if you use simplify3D try to add a wipe movement of 1mm for start and check "retract during wipe movement" you should get improvment on stiching between layer. If blobs appears elsewhere (corner for exemple) you'll need to tweak up jerk and acceleration and eventually use pressure advance settings if you've got bowden over 30cm.

@kerzal said in Fans vs Berd-Air:

What I wonder is if the two designs listed below + 2x 40mm fans will work on the smart effector, or if it will generate too much weight and interrupt the auto-calibration?

No problemo. No enough weight to "wobble" the hotend to the point it'll engage false triggering. Even if it happens you can fine tune the trigger sensitivity of the smart effector.

Hi,

Just heard of this plugin for octoprint (Thanks "CNC Kitchen" on Youtube), this is really the kind of feature that should be implemented in Firmware+DWC

https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/cancelobject/

"This plugin allows the user cancel single objects (or groups of objects) during a print while allowing the remaining objects to print normally. Currently, this functionality is limited to gcode sliced with Simplify3D using a unique process for each object (or group of objects). Regular expression settings will allow this to be used with other slicers if/when they include object-specific comments in gcode."

Note that using G10/11 won't handle "wipe during retraction" option in S3D.

I'll suggest you to use this model : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:909901

Add it X times in S3d and customize each process with different retraction settings. (Don't forget to print with piece by piece option with enough clearance) the model is small it'll be easy.

At least you'll end up with a clean base to fine tune reactions with more complex models.

@jacotheron & @t3p3tony thanks for your replies, I'll keep up with a DCDC step down at the Duet side then, I've got a bunch of these littles guys :

255K is way to high try 25K (F25000). In my case the sound and the temp dropped a lot.

Note that I've directly connected the 1/8" ID Tygon tube to the metal tube, it reduce pressured area and reduce heat from the pump mechanism (the white plastic part)

@chipsa82

Standard tubing used by berdair are 3/32" OD aluminium tube.

I've personnaly switch to soft brass tube of 1/8" OD (Wall: .014") from K&S. Used a wire in the tube to bend it (honestly it's almost mandatory for larger tube) and solder the end instead of pinched it.

I don't recommend stainless tube if you want to make a tube ring with 12mm ID, because it already not so easy with softer material.

If you go over 3/32" it "may" require makerbot type nozzle which has 8mm clearance compare to 5mm clearance from E3D nozzle type, mostly for convenience especially if you use a headblock sock.

@chipsa82 I'll post it on thingiverse in few days, need to rework some clearance for that damn screw under the fan duct

First prototype print works like a charm

@craig yeah welcome to the MotorOnTop club >high five<

@dc42

Almost sorry for my awfully dense explanation (I'm French)

White led draw 60mA on 1/6 of a meter (on a strip of 10 led out of 60) so we can say 360mA per meter and as you understood each color draw 1/3 of that so 120mA per color per meter.

So I'll stick with my initial choice with your recommendation about resistor. I'll post a picture once done

Thanks again!

@apak this looks very promising, is there any way to follow your progress on this project? like a thingiverse page or a forum thread?

Hello,

I've Just wanted to share my new design for crazy people like me with all electronics in the top triangle of a Delta

It's a compact powerbox to be installed at the bottom of the printer on a vertical 2040.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2954710

@mrac1 I'd be glad if you could provide the step file. I'd like to try something with the dc42's 80mm assumption base on your model.

I've got 2 questions:

• why did you choose this ball stud placement? Wouldn't it been easier to "just" offset the ball studs from the smart effector set horizontally to reach the desired clearance? Maybe it's just for the design aspect, or because of the top heater connector but I have to ask
• what's your feedback with this 2x4010 blowers configuration? Main issue with a smart effector and a mosquito is the vertical clearance to play with while keeping a good airflow distribution.

it's got the 5mm ID drivegear:

where the only drivegear alternative trianglelabs proposes (the 8mm) got this fatty look and doesn't have the same barrel bearings. The 8mm kit pic:
VS The ones in the kit:

@o_lampe said in Smart Effector including toolboard-capabilities?:

@hergonoway
I have to read up on ASA or PCmax filaments as alternative for ABS (I'm done with that) Do they need a heated chamber?

For ASA, no need. For PCmax, if you've got a chamber, I'd say it's better to use it especially if you target big printed pieces, but it's not mandatory. PC tend to build internal stress while being 3D printed. But you can anneal PCmax easily after print since glass temp is high, I usually anneal my pieces between 1h30 and 2 hour in the oven and let it temper as the oven cool down.

I personnaly don't have an heated chamber and print both without issue.

Also my advice for 2021 is to simply abandon ABS, it never has been a good material filament for FDM, just let it go. ASA is a far better alternative.

@mrac1 could you share a step/F3z file of your double blower mod for the mosquito I definitely need to try that, it looks awesome, but I can't find it on your thingiverse page... I assume that you've got a 713maker mount too.

I thought it was in the D3E step file, but I can't find it in either.