Topics created by Martin_S

BTW, Sorry if making threads of non-duet related stuff is not allowed. But the knowledge in this forum is superb.
Maybe add a general hangout discussion area?

Well, It must have been a wiring issue (or something else), because now the extruder is working under 24v.
For now, I will rewire the entire extruder connection and see how it goes. If the problem appears again I will report back.

Did my homework though, here is the M122 report:

[c]With 24v PSU
Bed set to 60ºc
Hotend set to 180ºc
Hit "Extrude" from DWC. 50mm feed amount, 1mm/sec feedrate
Waited 10 min
Hit "Extrude" again, just in case the 10 min wait could let the driver cooldown.[/c]

=== Diagnostics === Used output buffers: 3 of 32 (10 max) === Platform === RepRapFirmware for Duet WiFi version 1.20beta6 running on Duet WiFi 1.0 Board ID: 08DDM-9FAM2-LW4SD-6JKFD-3S46T-93XZX Static ram used: 15472 Dynamic ram used: 97048 Recycled dynamic ram: 2168 Stack ram used: 1368 current, 4920 maximum Never used ram: 11464 Last reset 00:04:24 ago, cause: power up Last software reset reason: User, spinning module GCodes, available RAM 11340 bytes (slot 1) Software reset code 0x0003, HFSR 0x00000000, CFSR 0x00000000, ICSR 0x00400000, BFAR 0xe000ed38, SP 0xffffffff Error status: 0 Free file entries: 10 SD card 0 detected, interface speed: 20.0MBytes/sec SD card longest block write time: 0.0ms MCU temperature: min 21.3, current 29.3, max 29.5 Supply voltage: min 23.8, current 24.0, max 24.2, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0 Driver 0: standstill Driver 1: standstill Driver 2: standstill Driver 3: standstill Driver 4: standstill Date/time: 2017-12-16 16:28:52 Cache data hit count 1113211460 Slowest main loop (seconds): 0.004874; fastest: 0.000041 === Move === MaxReps: 1, StepErrors: 0, FreeDm: 240, MinFreeDm 239, MaxWait: 2677025694ms, Underruns: 0, 0 Scheduled moves: 5, completed moves: 5 Bed compensation in use: none Bed probe heights: 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 === Heat === Bed heater = 0, chamber heater = -1 Heater 0 is on, I-accum = 0.0 Heater 1 is on, I-accum = 0.2 === GCodes === Segments left: 0 Stack records: 2 allocated, 0 in use Movement lock held by null http is idle in state(s) 0 telnet is idle in state(s) 0 file is idle in state(s) 0 serial is idle in state(s) 0 aux is idle in state(s) 0 daemon is idle in state(s) 0 queue is idle in state(s) 0 autopause is idle in state(s) 0 Code queue is empty. Network state is running WiFi module is connected to access point Failed messages: pending 0, notready 0, noresp 0 WiFi firmware version 1.20beta2 WiFi MAC address 8c:cf:7f:a4:05:f8 WiFi Vcc 3.10, reset reason Turned on by main processor WiFi flash size 4194304, free heap 39128 WiFi IP address 192.168.1.5 WiFi signal strength -62dBm, reconnections 0, sleep mode modem HTTP sessions: 1 of 8 Socket states: 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Responder states: HTTP(1) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) HTTP(0) FTP(0) Telnet(0)

Sorry for the trouble.
Martin

Edit: report added

I recommend PT100 sensors over thermocouples, except where very high temperatures are required. The E3D PT100 sensor (without the amplifier board) and Duet PT100 daughter board are sufficient.

@Martin_S:

Hi all, quick question, I'm about to have some parts water-cut and need to buy the aluminum sheets.
I wanted to buy MIC6 but it seems that it doesn't exists around here, so what would be a good alloy for the heated bed?

6061? 5083? 7xxx? other?

Thanks in advance
Martin

I do not know if he already solved it, I'm new here. Undoubtedly I would choose aleaceon 6061, you just have to think about which temple T will ask for it, 6061 is used in aircraft, it is secret is the temple, in T4 it would be well machined well.

While we are on the subject of USB cables:

So I bought a couple of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-Dual-Head-Reversible-Micro-USB-to-USB-Sync-Charging-Data-Cable-Samsung-HTC/262500346853. So far, they've been great!

Well, the issue is the flexible cable, and the touch screen it's responding good now. But I can't explain why it needs to be pressed against the TFT pcb for it to work.
Watch this video, I'm having trouble explaining it properly:

https://youtu.be/BvVAHmd0aA8

To fix it, some kapton tape..

I know it's not a Meanwell PSU so I won't expect the same performance.
Tested it under motor load and the oscilation is practically none. Yes…. with this cheap multimeter. It's not the best way but I can't afford an oscilloscope or a more professional calibrated multimeter.

My concern was if I had to ask for a refund/return or to confirm the transaction.
I've already did the last one.

Thank you all for the help and have a nice weekend.
I will for sure stay at home nerding with the CoreXY build 😛

@BerTiNax:

Hi Lan

Your explanations are coherent and plausible.
I tried to translate your ideas into a drawing, but I'm not sure if I understood everything correctly.
See photos:
…...............................

BerTiNax

Yes, that's the idea. It'll be better still if you can arrange the linear guides so that they are on opposite corners, say front left close to the screw and rear right, or front right and rear left. The reason being that if the guides are close to the edge, then any play in the guides will be the worse case for the bed and should be minimal. So say for example that there is 0.1 mm play in the guide or flex in the guide rod, and the guide is close to a corner then the maximum XY play on the bed will be that amount (0.1mm). If however the guides are close to the centre of the bed, then any play or flex in the rods will be magnified at the corners so that 0.1mm might become 1mm at the edge.

I'm being pedantic and what you have shown should work well enough though.

The point is that when you use M350 to change the microstepping, the steps/mm that you already had at that point are automatically changed accordingly. So both examples and up using x128 microstepping and 640 steps/mm for X and Y.

A 2mm pitch leadscrew sounds good to me. My SCARA printer has one for the Z axis and it manages 1000mm/min Z speed easily. It would probably do more if I increased the motor current.

The Tevo Little Monster uses an anodized plate with a machined lip to hold the glass in place with the heater glued to that. That is held in place by some standoffs and M5 bolts. Wouldn't be hard to adapt that idea to the Onyx stack. I like the removable glass on a Max V3 versus the glued in glass on the Tevo.

Thank you David, but I can't make it work.
Sorry for these silly questions, I'm a total newbie here.

When sending G92 Z0, under "machine status", Z heads position changes to 0. But once I send G28 it goes back to the previous Z height. Config.g Z height value remains the same.

So, I did it as you previously suggested and modified the H parameter. Made my first print and….
IT WORKS!!!! 🙂

I can't believe how silent everything is now, the only noticeable noise comes from the Titan Aero fan. Might change that one for a noctua or similar. Thank you so much for this incredible board.

30x30 test cube:

A little bit overextruding, but looks great.

The best part is that segmentation or vertical banding dissapeared now. This was the main reason to do the upgrade.
Still having some corner overshoot. Any help here would be much appreciated.

The black connectors that came with the PaneDue are for connecting it to different electronics, for example the older Duet 0.6 board. You don't need them for the Duet WiFi or Duet Ethernet.

The double entry bootlace ferrules are for use if you have a Duet X2 or Duet X5 as well so that you can daisy chain the power wires to that board. If you don't have one, use the single entry ferrules if your power wires will fit them. I was expecting to see 4 of them so that you have two for the bed heater as well. The small white ferrules are for the extruder heater connections.

I think in terms of marketing/customer education, this issue about how a wifi controller prints needs to be made quite clear to users, many of whom presume you can (or should!) drip feed gcode over wifi. I wonder if there is a way to make it quite obvious how it works such as

"Send whole gcode files to your card via wifi rapidly, then print direct from the memory card - total reliability, no PC required to print!"