Swap the X and Y motors back to how they were and use the M569 command to reverse the direction of the Y motor. If in doubt check that the head moves correctly when you command the the motors individually as described at https://duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_CoreXY_printer#Movement_section.

@Whitewolf:

…..........................
I am not a chemical expert but I can only guess that this same thing is happening with other filaments when they are spending too much time in the nozzle for a given temp.........................................

That's a definite, and can be one of the problems with a mixing hot end. What can happen is that the loaded but unused filaments "cook" inside the melt chamber even at normal printing temperatures if left for any length of time. Then when you come to start printing with that filament, what comes out to start with, for the first few mm, is a lot of vapour and a very runny, almost liquid messy stuff. You have to be aware of that and try to keep all the filaments moving, even slightly and/or arrange/slice the multi part object in such a way that no single filament is left unused in the melt chamber for too long.

I haven't had any issues with the plastic lead screw mounts on mine. I very rarely have to adjust the level (which I do by slackening the grub screws on the pulleys and rotating the screws). Maybe once every 6 months or so. But as you point out, yours is a bit thicker. The again, mine is 400mm square but I don't know what size yours is. If it's 300mm square then my plate may be heavier than yours. Ref the YoYo heat thing - that only happens with the temperature sensor sandwiched between the heat pad and the plate so putting the sensor in the side, near the top surface will be fine.

@Gerharddc:

Ok that makes sense. Unfortunately I think it's impossible to use Repetier Host in that way because in not-ping-pong mode it still waits for oks to send commands when it thinks the buffer has filled up. I'll check if I can another host working though. I have noticed that debug mode tends to come on the whole time and possibly destroys the serial bandwidth? I have no idea what is causing it but will keep searching.

The Duet does send the OK response so it does work if you disable ping pong.

Repetier seems to turn debug mode on by default but you can turn is off again, you just need to press a couple of buttons in the UI.

PanelDue doesn't send high volumes of data, so it doesn't need flow control.

If I where a rich man, Yubby dibby dibby dibby dibby dibby dibby dum

I don't know how to do that, but I think Tony does.

Use M307 to disable it as a heater, then you can control it using M42. See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_servos_and_controlling_unused_I/O_pins.

DJDemonD, I took some inspiration from your effector and redesigned mine, it is too bad that I loose some z-height now because the hotend is now a lot closer to the build plate, but on the other side part cooling fan designs are now a lot more straightforward.

Is your holder for the cooling fans available somewhere?

Michael

I got the problem solved. My drivers are active high but I don't have the R1 parameter in M569. so it's default to active low. It's still strange that the drivers would work without the Expansion Header Breakout.

no problem, in truth, i think i enjoyed the building phase more myself LOL I would be curious to see what it looks like when you get it done so plz post a pic some time. 🙂

I added a couple more renderings, I just noticed that if you look closely at the second rendering, you can actually see the path on each side where the bowden tube ends inside the body and where the filament path begins (the filament path is still encased in the body up until it makes contact with the gears

Try shutting off the heat sink fan or put it on a PWM connector and slow it down.

Connect a separate temp probe to it so you can fine tune at what temp things go wrong. Stay below that.

PanelDue does not support axes beyond W. I don't think there is room on the display to support any more. Maybe we could just squeeze in A if we didn't display the Z probe reading.

The one you've indicated with the arrow is for the touch interface. The larger one on the right is for the LCD.

manually lifting the probe works great, since then i have managed to print all bowden parts required, looking into bed lev eling

I'd be interested in those files also. Not sure I'm quite ready to build one but I'd love to look at how you did it.

@deckingman:

@jrlederer:

…................P.s. -> hey Ian, would you mind if I essentially copied your machine?

Cheers.

Jonathan

No problem but I don't have a build log or complete bill of materials. The entire thing was designed using OpenScad. I'm happy to put all the OpenScad files into a folder on my Google drive and create a shareable link so that you can download them. Note that I'm not by any means a professional when it comes to OpenScad, so some of the files might not be pretty but they get the job done. I haven't got time to go through the machine and catalogue all the various bolt sizes and lengths, but you can work them out from the OpenScad files. Send me a PM and we'll take it from there.

Ian

@Scottbg1:

Here's some craziness that maybe you guys have run across but it's surprising to me…

The roll of Hatchbox PETG has about 1/3 of a roll left and it's been sitting in an air tight box with a handful of silica gel baggies lining the floor for about the last 1 1/2 months.. There are various other filaments stored in there as well.

I mentioned earlier the trouble I was having with the eSun. So I am tweaking my settings per the conversation I had with Whitewolf with the Hatchbox roll.

I used to have to set my retraction length and speed pretty high to minimize stringing and blobs with the very roll on the old printer.
I am printing out a cylinder and a cube at various settings, and I have Pressure Advance turned off and the retraction settings at about what I had set for PLA and I have ZERO stringing and blobs. I had to double check the label to make sure I grabbed the right roll.
I know I haven't tweaked this machine to perfection. Do you think that maybe it sitting in the storage container so long has effected it? The only issues I have is a little under-extrusion during the infill. But I slowed the speed down a touch and it has improved a lot.

I am just shocked. Because of my personal experience and EVERYTHING I have ever read about PETG stringing and ooze is a normal characteristic and I am getting none of that. I think I will let the eSun roll of disaster bake in the box for a few weeks and revisit it just to see.

Yeah, if you want to improve your dry box a bit there is a guide on Taulman3d website that can put filaments in tip top shape: http://taulman3d.com/drying-materials.html

As deckingman explained TechG can vary Taulman themselves have three different PETGs under different names and different characteristics all three print amazingly so does the rigidink so i had some ignorance as to why others had such issues with PETG i guess i was just spoiled out the gate because ive been using taulman TechG every since i started printing in PETG a couple years ago

I was inspired by d42 to get into building a large delta. … I used smoothieware as at the time duet was in transition from 0.8 to ethernet/wifi (over a year ago). If I had to do it again, I'd go with duet -- I had a lot of trouble with the Azteeg board, eventually switched to authentic smoothieboard.

[Admin note: I'm very sorry, I accidentally edited your post instead of replying to it. Feel free to re-post it - dc42.]

I used to get that with my cheapo android tablet also, so I think thats a more widespread bug with tablets in general, but thanks for the info seems like it will work fine.

Yep, that worked. Thanks.