@Legrand, look at the bottom side of the board - it might be toast (literally).
At minimum, you need to replace both the header on the board as well as the connector on the wires. If the copper traces on the back side are damaged (that includes being heavily oxidized from heat) then you can either toss the board or you can do point-to-point wiring from a suitable undamaged area of the copper traces to the header. It might be better to have the header off the pcb (hanging off the point-to-point wiring) if the board is heavily damaged from the heat.
How this happens is if there is a connection with too much contact resistance. The current flowing through the contact resistance heats the contact and eventually you get what you see. In this case it would appear that the third connector insert from the top (yellow) was causing the issue. You could have had a bad connection between the contact and the header or, more likely, the crimp was not done correctly.

@oliof I did chat to Stewart about this at ERRF last year. it is very cool that Kiri:moto already has 4 axis for CNC

I also think that the term "slicer" is probably not how we want to think about using the combination of multi axis and non planar (like what Michael Wüthrich is doing with 90 degree overhangs by printing at an angle). "toolpath generation" is a bit long winded but more accurate. In some cases the approach of slicing in layers may be fine but in many cases layers are just not appropriate.

@dc42
thank you. changing M593 is helpful at the moment.
It´s a pt1000 from STD& hotend.

@Niels-0 have you tested the Z endstop, to check that it doesn't appear to be already triggered to RRF? If it appears to be triggered at the start of the Z homing move then RRF will skip the G1 H1 Z500 F900 move and proceed directly t the G1 H2 Z-5 move. You can check that Z endstop using either M119 or the object Model Browser in DWC.

once again thank you gtj0 and chrishamm, couldnt have done it without you.

Screenshot from 2023-06-20 14-28-40.png

@droftarts Thanks for the Update

I have created a trigger macro file in the sys folder, and now the end stoppers are working well.

@dc42 It may have been a signal issue the first time, however I don't think it is anymore when it won't stop crashing despite rebooting itself. I see when it gets stuck - I had the usb console hooked up hoping to see some output on it, which means that the duet wasn't completely power cycled even when I attempted to hard power cycle it. Anyway, there is some left-over state maybe in the lis3dh itself that causes this crash even after it reboots, and there is no longer a signal issue, at least temporarily.

@uami The important thing is that you match whatever you use in your slicer, with your configuration. This will "tell" the Duet board how to interpret extruder moves. Relative is generally best, not least because the firmware has to internally convert absolute values to relative when doing a G1 Xn Yn En move. So if you have set your slicer to output relative extruder moves, then use M83 in your config.g. If for some reason you prefer to use absolute extrusion moves, then set the slicer accordingly and use M82 in your config.g.

@frontrange said in Is there any reason not to use an AC powered heat bed?:

Since I've never done anything but low voltage DC heaters I'm just checking to see if there is any reason (other than aversion to mains) that I would not want to do that?

The only reason not to do it is if you don't have enough knowledge and experience to do it safely. Things to consider:

The metal parts of the printer (including those on the bed) must be grounded, for safety The terminals carrying AC mains power must be safely kept away from prying fingers The wires must be sufficiently insulated and prevented from chafing. This is easy if the bed is fixed (e.g. in a delta printer), more difficult if it is moving. A moving bed requires strain relief at both ends of the cable to prevent it breaking where it enters the terminal.

Additionally, you should consider what will happen if the bed heater gets stuck on at full power. With an AC mains bed it is easy to use a high powered heater that will raise the bed temperature to a dangerous value. So you should either choose the bed heater power carefully so that the temperature rise will be limited to a reasonably safe value at full power, or use a thermal cutout mounted on the bed or bed heater.

For a 300mm x300 mm bed I would definitely use an AC mains bed heater.

@matthew-81 can you start a new thread please? also post your config and an output of M122

@uami That's a pretty extreme setup you have:
15360 steps/mm for the extruder but only 1100mA. It seems to be a highly geared small stepper?
Above all that, a nozzle with ~0.1mm diameter (0.15 extrusion width)

I guess you've checked already if all these parameters are correct.
Maybe you have some settings or startup-code in your slicer that messes them up?

The only F-parameter I see in the gcode snippet is F900 = 15mm/s
Maybe that's too fast for the extruder?

NM, Figured out how to make a 5i work.

You may be exceeding the maximum extrusion speed of your hotend.

See here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/How_to_guides/Calibration#h-4-find-maximum-extrusion-rate

@oliof yep I double checked and sure enough wire color was messed up and phases were in wrong order.
only had power at 950ma. works now on different driver

@Phaedrux

I got it going, it was a wire that was backward. thanks a lot for your help appreciated !!

@Phaedrux said in Help entering new wifi password:

; Add default wifi network;M291 R"Add default WIFI network? Y/N" P"This will add duetwifi access point." S3 T10 M552 S0 ; Disable network moduleG4 S5 ; wait 5 secondsM587 S"NETWORKNAME" P"PASSWORD" ; Add duet wifi SSID to remembered networks listG4 S5 ; wait 5 secondsM552 S1 ; reenable wifi module M291 R"duetwifi SSID added." P"Check console to verify IP address."

That worked! Thanks!!!

@ctilley79 sorry. the hiccups

@abindarraez1 It seems to be working. I will upload a new ticket if there is a failure

@dc42 Thanks a lot

@o_lampe I haven't printed on FR2 either, but it sticks very well to PEI, sometimes too well. dribbling a little IPA around the edges of the print seems to help it release. It might help on FR2, too.

100 um seems pretty thin for a single layer.