@Triet there is a 2-drive daughter board that provided two extra drivers on the Mini5+. https://www.duet3d.com/duet3expansionmini2plus

@dbenhart said in Orbiter V3.0, Can the "smart" hardware be used with Duet2/RRF?:

I'm wondering whether anyone made progress on this topic, connecting a Smart Orbiter 3 to a Duet board. I have a Duet3 MB6HS and am trying to with up the SO3 to it. Specifically, I'm trying to connect the filament sensor and LED. I've got it wired up to IO4, with the yellow/LED being on IO4.out, and brown/filament-sensing being on io4.in. I've got blue/GND and red/+5v wired up to the corresponding pins on IO4 as well. I'm not getting anything from the LED, and the voltage change on the filament sensor doesn't make any sense either. I'm using a multimeter to measure IO4.in to GND, but the voltage change is only 0.1V when I put filament in. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Have you been able to make any sense of this? I just finished mounting the SO3 to my Toolchanger, and now need to tackle the electronic side: printing works, but would be nice to have the filament sensor working. I understand that the LED matrix is not addressable in Duet2 but hopefully the triggers/button can be read?

@simplesimson you can't connect steppers with external drivers to a 6HC when used in step/dir mode
You would need to use a 6XD or a 1XD. The 6XD is recommended over the 1XD.

You can't connect CAN controlled stepper drivers to duet boards as it's not supported and CAN isn't really fast enough for the high step rates required

I can't tell very much from your diagram because I can't see how far the SZP control board is from the hot end. If in doubt, put a layer of glass fibre tape or similar thermal insulation behind the control board to shield it from the heat.

@stuartofmt I slowly tend to that Shelly thing as it looks like a manageable and straightforward solution, until I am forced to do something more fancy. Thanks.

@genioluiz7 It looks like replacing the MCU is the only option now. We do stock refurbished boards at discounted prices, if you need a cheap replacement. Email sales@duet3d.com.

Ian

@U-Friedrich said in Control of SG90 hobby servos - which mainboard:

CTI Servo Actuator Travel-Tip-Delay

I've used this macro code to try and slow down my servo movement - but it is still a bit jumpy with probeSpeed 1

while global.probeAngle > global.probeOut G4 P{global.probeSpeed} M280 P5 S{global.probeAngle} set global.probeAngle = global.probeAngle - 0.1

See this video for a demo of the slow movement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpVAuKwoTiQ&t=4s

The biggest problem I always have with servos is that at powerOn they sometimes jump quite quickly to their home position if not already there, or jump to a random position if I disable them when not needed.

I'm planning on moving all of my Servo's over to stepper motors - some of which might need to be geared - mainly to avoid the fast moves issue, and also to give better control over the speed.

@jay_s_uk Thanks! Just looked this up and wow I wish I knew about M581 sooner.

@jay_s_uk OK, that's what I was hoping. Thanks!

@darylprice https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m308-set-or-report-sensor-parameters
I would suggest a B value of 4092

@jay_s_uk said in Re-purpose Duet boards from M3D Crane Quad:

@Kev1n i'm pretty sure that printer came with a Duet Maestro. You can expand it by adding 2 more drivers but thats pretty much it.
Also firmware support for it stopped with 3.5
Best to look at the Duet 3 Mini 5+ or 6HC

Wow! that was fast! thanks Jay

@droftarts
Thank you

@FHesse said in Connect Pyrometer:

Maybe I can connect an arduino to the 6HC via spi and then communicate with the pyrometer via the arduino?

You could do that, but unless you are prepared to modify the Duet firmware, you will need to program the Arduino to emulate a sensor that we already support, for example the MAX31856 thermocouple interface. Note, the SPI connector on Duets uses 3.3V signal levels, so do not connect it to an Arduino running from 5V.

@gratgrat27 and segmentation is M669, not M667

@jay_s_uk Great! Thanks

@ajmill21 best look at getting that baby on 3.5.4 now

@JJJJ How have you got the bed heater set up? Looking at the 'original' config from my machine, it's:

M307 H0 A119.9 C608.9 D1.4 S1.00 B1

The M307 B1 parameter on the end is for 'bang-bang' control, i.e. it turns on when it's not at temperature, and turns off when it is, so switching frequency is low. 'Bang-bang' control causes wider temperature swings, so usually B0 is used for PWM control of the bed. However, this comes at a much faster switching rate, set by the M950 Q parameter for the heater, which sets the PWM frequency in Hz.

It may be that you had the PWM frequency set too high for the SSR, which has either caused it to fail, or just to stay on. It's difficult to say what PWM frequency would work, as the 'Fotek SSR-100 DD' doesn't seem to be a current product, see https://www.fotek.com.tw/en-gb/product-category/144. The other SSRs in that range state a 'response time' of 1ms (millisecond). This might mean that it can switch at 1000 times a second (1000Hz), but realistically I'd tend to drive it at a much lower rate, eg 10Hz, as we suggest here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Heaters_bed#configuring-a-bed-heater

We also don't recommend this kind of SSR, see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Heaters_bed#bed-heater-driven-using-a-solid-state-relay

Ian