3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?
-
@timothyz said in 3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?:
no male and female, but insertion is one way
That's not necessarily good. The gender often prevent you from connecting thing that shouldn't be connected. For example, with RC batteries you want to be able to connect a battery to load but not to another battery. Same goes for connecting two Duet driver outputs to each other.
-
@zapta
That's understandable, with this really being focused to the hotend, I guess I would be able to connect a fan outputs to another fan outputs if I wired them to two pin connectors. Looking at the size of everything, there really isn't much difference so I'll probably buy some more microfit 3.0 connectors (they are basically the same size as nanofit, weirdly enough). -
@zapta said in 3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?:
That's not necessarily good. The gender often prevent you from connecting thing that shouldn't be connected.
You would have to use connectors with different numbers of pins for each "class" of device - not ideal.
Frederick
-
I don't like crimp connectors.
You never have the right crimp tool at hand (at home) nor can be sure, the cable has the right wire gauge (AmericanWireGauge [AWG] or metric system)
I solder everything and protect it with shrinktube. -
@o_lampe said in 3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?:
You never have the right crimp tool at hand (at home) nor can be sure, the cable has the right wire gauge (AmericanWireGauge [AWG] or metric system)
Look in my tool drawer - I think you will find the crimper you need - if you rummage around long enough.
Frederick
-
@o_lampe said in 3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?:
You never have the right crimp tool at hand (at home)
i can crimp nearly everything 3d printer related with the engineer pa-09
-
Crimp connections are more reliable if done correctly. If you can't do them right then soldering is likely better for you.
-
properly crimped connectors are better then soldered , specially on high speed moving parts like 3d printer .
i use molex and AMP connectors . for high current heaters (no longer use them , moved to mains powered) i used RC soldered connectors like XT60 and XT30 .
-
I personally hate dupont but e.g. for stepper wires its super conveniant because you can change direction.
On heaters I use Molex Micro fit or Mini fit Jr.Custom ANET A8
Custom Delta: D-PATCH (Delta Printer with Automatic Tool CHanging) https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/16082/d-patch?_=1596131234754All I do here is under this license: CC BY-NC-SA
-
i use Molex Micro fit for heaters as well.
for other i use jst locking ones
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32856368582.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dyysxU1 -
@hackinistrator said in 3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?:
i used RC soldered connectors like XT60 and XT30
I got recently this version of XT60 with the black covers and like it more than the older shrink tube version.
Other interesting high current connector are Anderson Powerpole https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anderson_Powerpole which are modular and genderless.
Apropos connectors, WhamBam came recently with an interesting 3D printer gantry connector system https://whambamsystems.com/mutant
-
@zapta said in [3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?](/post
Apropos connectors, WhamBam came recently with an interesting 3D printer gantry connector system https://whambamsystems.com/mutant
Shame they can't design a belt drive correctly...
-
-
I know this is an old topic but I have a relevant update:
I started with Dupont style connections for the hot end heater for my 12V based printer. That caused all kinds of grief fairly quickly due to overheating of the connector (40W heater). I then went to a JST style interlocking connector. That worked for a while but is again causing failures due to overheating of the connector.
Up to now, these connectors where sourced from China .... and are costing me way more in frustration and spoiled prints than they are worth.My next and hopefully final connector style will be a genuine Molex Microfit 3.0 connection system sourced from Digikey. I just had a print abort after about 4 hours of printing and it just isn't worth the pain and suffering any more.
Even at ten times the price of the China product, it's worth it if it fixes this mess! -
@jens55
dc42 also suggested to use the MicroFit 3.0, but I couldn't find a reseller (accepting paypal) with all the required parts in Stock. I guess, the German/EU components-market is empty, due to the well known issues. (and the supercontainership blocking Suez-channel forever) -
@o_lampe All my printers use Microfit 3.
In the UK I can get them from CPC, Farnell and if I have a big enough order Mouser.I use DuPont for things like accelerator where it is not a permanent fixture.
-
@o_lampe
Reichelt.... -
@o_lampe said in 3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?:
... supercontainership blocking Suez-channel forever
Now it's the canal that blocks the ship
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FESrIXpsQJcThere is a general shortage of electronic components to a point that car manufacturer dropped features or stopped production because they can't get the chips they need.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=car+chip+shortage
Did it affected Duet3D in any way?
-
@o_lampe said in 3D Printer Connectors - What's best for in-line connections?:
@jens55
dc42 also suggested to use the MicroFit 3.0, but I couldn't find a reseller (accepting paypal) with all the required parts in Stock. I guess, the German/EU components-market is empty, due to the well known issues. (and the supercontainership blocking Suez-channel forever)There appear to be plenty on eBay. https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=molex+microfit
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42
That's where I was looking. The problem was the crimp connectors for both housings. I'd have had to buy from here and there to scratch everything together.
