Topics created by CarlBosson

@mikeabuilder said in Swipe/prime Nozzle macro:

absolute coordinates for extrusion

i think you nailed it

@CarlBosson for a 100C enclosure you will need to find a high temperature microswitch, or have spares around for temperature induced degradation. There is a high temp version of Euclid but you need to get in touch with @sinned6915 directly to get one.

@soare0 Thank you.

@jay_s_uk Thank you

@T3P3Tony Under Firmware installation. Just keyed in "YAT". I found a lot of problems with YAT but not where to find the program.

Carl

@CarlBosson Well done, that does look like a pretty nice Benchy!

Ian

@fcwilt Thank you all for your input. Have a great day.

@jay_s_uk
It turns out, I have still never seen a heating element fail in this manor. The problem was a loose connection. I have a small two pole screw terminal connecting the heating element in the hot end back to the control board. As I began to disassemble the hot end I found the loose terminal connection. It is heating and controlling as it should at 400 deg. C. You can mark this one solved! Thanks for all the help.

Carl

@norder Also very helpfull! Thank you again! 😁

https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start

@engikeneer You were correct. I rewired the stepper and the problem is solved! Back to printing. Thank you for all your help.

Ok here is the update. The test was a success! If you do not mind losing a mirror 😊. After I got back up and running, I also changed filament, I changed to 3Dxtech CarbonX™ NYLON PA6+CF. This filament prints very well by the way.

So, to recap, I used standard 12" X 12" mirror tiles from Home Depot. I particle blasted the mirror to get it some texture then added two layers of Nano Polymer Adhesive letting it dry between layers. I did not use a brim this time with the added texture from blasting the glass it was not nessary. Enclosure temp was around 82⁰C Extruder 275⁰C Bed was 110⁰C. I started to print last Thursday and printed thru the night until Friday then shut everything down around 10:30am with about four hours left to go in the print. I came back in on Monday morning and restarted the print it finished without to may problems.

First issue there is a small visible line where the print restarted but I could clean this up if I wanted. This restart line did not affect the strength of the part at all. I dare you to try to break this part! Next, The part was stuck to the mirror so well that it broke trying to remove the print. It also left small pieces of glass stuck to the bottom of the print. I removed these with a small die grinder and proper PPE of course.

Finished part with scale.png

You can see the re start line at around 62mm in the photo.
Final Part.png
This is the finished part.

I think I will keep trying but will cut back on the adhesive. Thanks for all your help and have a great day.

@CarlBosson said in controlling a heated fan in my enclouser:

I find that now it is set up, the controller for E1 gets an error because it expects a change in temperature equal to 1.7 degC persec.

Ok thanks for clearing up the fan/heater confusion. In order to solve the error of not heating up fast enough you will need to do a PID autotuning of the heater so that the firmware can generate a model of the heaters performance. to do this you may need to increase the dead time though.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_a_chamber_heater
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control

@dc42 said in Thinking of adding a auto bed leveling sensor.:

Bear in mind that the IR sensor does not work well with glass beds if they are coated with glue stick, hairspray etc. It works reasonable well on clean uncoated glass that has a matt black surface underneath it. You can put a sheet of black paper between the bed and the glass, or spray paint the aluminium with matt black barbecue paint and cure it at a suitable temperature.

Now that's very odd because I use various types of glass and ceramic bed surfaces in conjunction with printafix and have no issues with the IR sensor getting a reading

At this point everything is running as it should.

@veti Thank you, I missed adding the adjustment after S. All seems to be working now! Thanks

Thank you

@carlbosson said in X and Y movment:

Thak you, I have not done a Conversion. it is in its stock form. Thank you for your help.

In that case I suggest you go back to the configurator. You can import the config.json file that it generated before so that you don't need to re-enter all the settings. Then in the General tab, change the Geometry to Cartesian. After that go to the Finish tab and click the Finish button to generate new configuration and homing files.