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    Topics created by siblues

    • siblues

      Heat bed heater help?
      General Discussion • • siblues

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      siblues

      Thanks for the link the time it will take is a bit longer than what I am currently experiencing but it isn't too bad 10-12 minutes.The weird thing is the calculator only shows a 4 minute difference between the 300 and 600 w versions of the heater.The 600w is only available in the 110v or 220v versions.The 12v version looks like a better option for me with this printer,I will look into the 110v version and 24v PSU on my Corexy plans.

    • siblues

      Motor phase disconnected problem?
      General Discussion • • siblues

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      siblues

      I had some motors on the way so I tried what Tony mentioned and it was a bad motor.

    • siblues

      Meanwell remote turn on question?
      Duet Hardware and wiring • • siblues

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      insertnamehere

      @jv43

      0_1558657318621_446186b4-8563-431e-bb07-93d2650e4829-image.png

      The Meanwell input is opposite logic to the Duet PS_ON output. I made this circuit up to isolate the Duet from the supply input and to invert the PS_ON output. The +5V is from the Meanwell aux 5V supply which also powers the Duet board in standby. Working now for maybe a 6 months, not a problem. RC- can be left floating.

    • siblues

      Horrible print results.Help needed?
      Tuning and tweaking • • siblues

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      PuterPro

      @siblues said in Horrible print results.Help needed?:

      I can do the retraction test but the temp tower I can not figure out how to adjust the temps in Cura to work.I am new to all of this so I am still trying to learn even the basic stuff at the moment.

      I just want to address this one - The temp towers in Cura are a bit tricky but REALLY worth the effort. What you have to do is this:

      Go to Thingiverse and open the Customizer on the model @Veti linked. Create your model (suggestions below). Save the model (Publish) don't make it public unless you want to.

      Load the model into Cura, setup the settings you want with the Default Temp set to the HOTTEST you'll go (say 220° for PLA). Be sure the two Initial temps MATCHES the default temp. Final temp should be the lowest the tower will be doing.

      Slice the model and go to Preview. Slide the layers slider all the way down then go up until it reaches the first temp switch point, Write down the layer number. Keep going up, writing the layer numbers at each switch point.

      Now go to the top menu choose Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code. Then Add a Script.

      What you want is ChangeAtZ. It will have Trigger - Change that to LAYER No. and put the first layer change you wrote down (say 35). Go down and Check the box Change Extruder 1 Temp and put the first step DOWN that you need (like 215° if it's changing by 5° increments). Leave the rest of the settings alone.

      Add a Script again and repeat step 4 for the next change point you noted (say layer 70) and change temp down to 210°. Repeat until the you have all the changes down to say 180°.

      SLICE AGAIN then save your G-Code. ALSO go to the File -> Save and save it as a Cura project (see below)

      Print away. 😀

      NOTE WELL: CURA REMEMBERS THOSE SETTINGS EVEN IF YOU CLOSE THE PROGRAM!!!!
      YOU NEED TO REMEMBER TO GO INTO IT AGAIN AND REMOVE THE CHANGEATZ SCRIPTS OR YOU'LL GO NUTS WONDERING WHY YOUR FUTURE PRINTS GO SCREWY ON YOU!!!!!

      Ask me how I know ... 😇 It's gotten me more than once, just last week it got me again, I was going CRAZY at a model not printing right and found Cura was dropping the temp every 35 layers because i forgot I did a Temp Tower! I felt SO stupid.

      One way to avoid all this work next time (and there WILL be a next time) is to SAVE the print, not just as a G-Code, but as a Cura PROJECT. Then you go in immediately and delete the ChangeAtZ commands while you remember it.

      Temp towers will really help you in dialing in your temps, which appears to be what you're battling.

      I run one every time I get a new type of filament. Write the settings on the reel. Some say they do it for every reel as it changes a bit, but that's nuts for most good filament. The change will be minor.
      However, I find COLOR matters! Black eSun PLA will not print the same temps as Aqua eSun PLA. Do a tower for each type of filament, it's worth the work.

      The tower I like is the same one @Veti linked. You use the Customizer to create the exact range you need.

      Generally I start my tests at 10° over the top temp recommended by the filament maker and take it down to 5° under (don't go too low you'll start grinding in the extruder), go down 5° steps. Be sure to slice at the speed you expect to use for real prints.

      Once you get the temp basic range that's best for your machine you can try another tower with 2 degree steps to really get the best spot (if you're OCD like me ... LOL!)

      Just File -> Open the project file (.3mf) in Cura and change the starting temp & temps for each step, then re-slice. (The numbers will be wrong on the print, but just use your head, easier than redoing the Thingiverse tower). I assume you can subtract by twos ... 😈

      It's a bit of a pain, but once you have done a few you'll have a better handle on what temp you should actually use for that brand & type of filament. Just don't forget to remove those changeatZ commands!

      Have fun! You may want to print this as a guide as you go. Like most things, 1st time is the hardest.

      BTW, a general tip - stop trying to go fast. Seriously.

      This is a hobby that requires patience. If you slice at 70mm/s then slice at 40mm/s you'll find it's not that different, but the quality sure will be. Speed kills in this hobby. Printing twice because you pushed the speed is dumb, be patient, you'll get much better results. As you get better and you dial in the machine you can sneak up but in general, slow and steady saves the print.

      Good luck!

    • siblues

      Heater fluctuation
      Tuning and tweaking • • siblues

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      siblues

      I will check the wiring and I am using a E3D cartridge style thermistor.I checked the wiring and even tried moving the wires closer to the cartridge body while the machine was printing but I could not reproduce the problem.

    • siblues

      Issues after updating DWC
      Duet Web Control • • siblues

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      siblues

      I am using a backup as we speak to get up and running again with one issue.I will be starting a thread to figure that out in a few seconds.

    • siblues

      Heater fault?
      General Discussion • • siblues

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      siblues

      Thermistors ordered and you are a savior.I didn't even realize that was there and I have no idea how I managed to do that.The printer and Duet are working ok right now trying to tune things a bit more for better results.

    • siblues

      Individual fan testing?
      Duet Hardware and wiring • • siblues

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      siblues

      Thank you for the quick reply

    • siblues

      First layer issue?
      Tuning and tweaking • • siblues

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      siblues

      Here is the height map.

      Heightmap

    • siblues

      SOLVED Warranty replacement fried?
      Order discussion • • siblues

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      crynool

      Glad you sorted it out 😄

    • siblues

      Dotstar questions?
      Duet Hardware and wiring • • siblues

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      Phaedrux

      I'm not aware of a tutorial, but between the wiki page and the meta command forum section you can find some examples and ask questions.

      https://forum.duet3d.com/category/34/gcode-meta-commands

    • siblues

      BlTouch randomly deploys probe twice.
      General Discussion • • siblues

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      siblues

      I will check again to make sure but was your BlTouch working while it was doing this? Mine keeps working just fine while it is doing this. I do get quite a few the probe was triggered before move messages.

    • siblues

      BlTouch not responding to commands?
      General Discussion • • siblues

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      tjb1

      @phaedrux said in BlTouch not responding to commands?:

      @tjb1 Ideally your printer should be configured to use a left hand cartesian coordinate system

      0_1542214160026_Cartesian-coordinate-system.png

      So if the offset is to the left or below the nozzle it will be negative value. If it is to the right or above it will be a positive value.

      Thank you, I think that would be a good picture to add to the G31 command in the wiki.

    • siblues

      A few questions regarding switching to Duet
      General Discussion • • siblues

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      siblues

      I am going to make a new thread specifically for the BlTouch problem.I would love to hear your input in there.