@dc42:

Looks like 2 different errors:

1. Probe triggered at start of move. Perhaps the, G31 P parameter is wrong, or the dive height is too low.

2. Trying to execute a macro file that it can't find.

Now works….

I have raised the dive height...

Nice mount.

I'm also glad to know I'm not the only one who has resorted to bodge fixing the E3D sock to my hotend! I use a thin strip of kapton tape but it was a PITA to get on…..

Any luck with the black printbite? Would love to see some pics of your levelling grids. I have the gridded printbite surface and it doesn't work on that.

I'm yet to decide if it is a dodgy IR sensor, or if it is hitting the grids and causing a strange pattern.

My bed levelling came out as such –

I could rip off my old printbite and buy a new one, or I could get it to only take readings from within grids, but my current set up works without an IR sensor… it is really only to have a digital readout of my bed flatness that I care about so I'm yet to take the plunge. Let me know how black printbite works though and maybe i'll take the plunge

My printer is Cartesian. This is a test rig to work the kinks out of my configuration before I deploy these sensors to my small (but growing) print farm. All of the farm printers are also Cartesian.

Changing the leveling method in Marlin was the ticket. I enabled linear leveling instead of bilinear and I got a perfect first layer! I went back and enabled 9 and 16 point bilinear leveling and tried it once more after having some success with linear bed leveling. Unfortunately, as soon as I ask my printer to calculate a complex mesh, things get wonky. So, I think we've solved the mystery. It was never the sensor's fault. The board wasn't performing the calculations correctly in the more advanced bed leveling options. Taking away most of the math and using only four points has enabled it to pull through and create a proper plane.

Thanks very much for your assistance. I will continue to buy and recommend Duet electronics. I can't wait to get my Duet Wi-Fi for my larger printer!

It is a private construction printer with a 300x 300 print bed.
Thanks for the tip. I will look forward to it soon.

If you are using an oscilloscope to look at the signals, you should see the end of each of those resistors that is connected to the microcontroller switch between 0V and nearly 3.3V, and the end connected to the diode switch between 0V and about 1.2V.

@deckingman:

Please don't take this the wrong way but if you are planning a major rebuild, then consider using aluminium tool plate which will give a you flat build surface thus negating the need to compensate for deviations. If you can build it rigid and square and use three lifting screws, you can also negate the need for any form of software level compensation. It doesn't cost much extra to do and it's so nice to be able to simply home the printer, then print something. I just put G28 (home all) in my start gcode as well as any heating commands. So if I want to print something, I turn on the printer, select the file to print then walk away and come back when it's finished. No messing around having to probe the bed.

I agree 100% with this. Build it with a good flat print bed and move on…. My current printer has a flat bed and has no need for bed compensation. I am building a new IDEX version with a flat piece of jig plate that will be indicated flat and parallel to the hotend travels. I will use a switch mounted on the back of my bed as a touch height for setting my hotends Z zero's when ever I change them. This will also allow me to run a regular nozzle along with a volcano nozzle on the U drive during the same print.

Can you post the first 50 or so lines of the gcode file you are trying to print.

Yes all. Finally i unplug, reset and plug again, works now

Thanks

Thanks so much for this, David! I just looked over my homez.g and think that's the answer! I'll try it out tonight when I get home!

Just to follow up, I ordered some sheets of Buildtak which seems to be working well as far as IR probing goes.

Got it all sorted again so then I'll drop the convertion. You are prolly right Dougal1957 that it would be easier to just buy the proper board.