thanks for the info

To close this out, I decided to create a new two-wire connection that bypassed the 12-pin connector. I started by replacing the thermistor connection. It works fine. So - I didn't find the true source of the problem, but I did isolate it to the thermistor pair of wires and not the heater wires.

This workaround is acceptable to me, and less hassle than replacing the 12-pin connector and likely having to patch in additional wire length. 🙂

The G31 Z parameter should be set so that Z=0 corresponds to the nozzle just touching the bed or just gripping a sheet of thin paper. This does not depend on the layer height you want to print at. When your slicer wants to start a print with a first layer height of 0.2mm, it will send G1 Z0.2 at the start, before it starts extruding. If you actually want the nozzle to be at only 80% of 0.2mm at that point, that can be configured in the slicer.

Definitely not Mach

Try CNCjs in Marlin mode. It mostly works. CNCjs is available as a stand-alone executable, or a split server/client pair. The server part, or the "all-in-one-desktop" part, interfaces with the USB on the Duet. No network support available at this time.

https://cnc.js.org/docs/desktop-app/

P.S. Rumor has it that a dedicated "Duet/RepRap" tab, including network, for CNCjs is on the way.

Yes, it sounds like your PT100 wires are unshielded and running close to the extruder stepper motor wires.

M501 /facepalm.

Yeah that was missing, and had it been there this whole time the OP issue wouldn't have happened 😛

Massive thanks, pid tuned values loading up from config-override.g correctly now and both H0 and H1 have voltage values in there now as well!

@dc42 @Foosel suggests the format should be:

Recv: ok T:195.0 /195.0 T1:188.6 /190.0 B:60.0 /60.0

https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/2590

monkeypantman created this issue in foosel/OctoPrint closed No longer recognising second tool temperature on dual extruder from M105 query #2590

Ah, that could be where the error lies...

In config.g I have

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y-9 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
M563 P1 D1 H2 ; Define tool 1
G10 P1 X0 Y9 Z0 ; Set tool 1 axis offsets
G10 P1 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 1 active and standby temperatures to 0C

In Cura I've reset both to zero. I'll try again tomorrow!

LOL a bit radical, but nice! 🙂

Thank You all for your help, and you helped a lot!

@dragonn said in Mass Dampers:

@deckingman printing speed have complete nothing to do with vibrations, zero. Only acceleration and jerk values have effect on vibration.

Lol what?? Stepper motors have resonant frequencies that cause tons of vibrations at certain constant speeds.

What I meant to say was that all stepper motor driver chips include flyback diodes. They are built into the output MOSFETs.

There is a section about protecting drivers on the TMC22xx datasheet.

Yes on the e3d radial blower I used a frequency of 10 or 15

forgot to mention I use a 500 mesh (.025mm) stainless screen down in the nozzle where the bore meets the taper before entry into the orifice. requires machining the nozzle for a pressed in sleeve to capture it. Added resistance from screen seemed to help oozing although the back pressure never seemed excessive without it because the flow is also lower. Honestly, I had few clogs without it too

@peter247 said in Silicone Heated Bed:
.

Now I've come to the opinion the best way is thin aluminium plate 3 or 4mm and flat glass / shims , what is the point of a heavy plate if it bowed ?

@peter247 sounds like a great idea. I didnt like the aluminum bed because of the weight and because 40% of it is outside the printable area. Not an efficient approach in my opinion on a machine that moves the bed in x or y. A lot of wasted energy. I here many claim the poor thermal conductivity of glass as being the reason for aluminum but the glass is thin (relative) and has a high rate of heat flow even though it is a poor conductor.
If you ended up with a flat piece of aluminum you may be able to plop it down on a layer of PVA glue and call it a day bypassing the shims

thanks. will do 🙂

@dc42 said in auto save on loss of power from a different pin (endstop?):

M226 is intended for use in the GCode file being printed, for example to pause after a particular layer has completed. So it waits until all the moves in the queue have been completed. M25 is intended for use from a different source of GCodes.

I have updated the gcode documentation to reflect this.

Thank you for the reply.

I think I have figured it out, the driver is fine (I think) as I was able to change the direction finally.

This is what happened:

I have moved the extruder from E0 to E1 motor output.
I have set the E0 drive to use 4(E1) Motor driver
The issue is that configurator.reprapfirmware.org generated config for E0 instead of E1, I do not know if that is a bug or a feature, but setting manually M569 P4 S0 did the trick.

Thank you everyone for you support.

If I try to clear the cache I get a 'no entry' sign on the button. Other changes I have made such as notification time out and half z steps stay permanently.

@doctrucker said in Why 4 Wheels on the Guides?:

Just wish I'd considered it before redesigning the front and rear carriage plates to take the titan and under slung stepper.

As I've been thinking about the design a little more I realised the guide wheels on the x-bar are loaded axially, rather than direct onto their contact patch, and then realised that the cross bar really should be rotated 90 degrees about the x-axis so that it's most rigid in comparison to the loadings applied to it from the y-axis motions of the head and loading the wheels better. I'd like to run the calcs at some point to work out if the difference it would make would be worth working on. There are negatives to the re-orientation; belt orientation wouldn't be as neat though and you'd probably end up relocating the cross bar to clear the belts. Wouldn't mind betting the accelerations that would warrant the work would flex the rest of the chassis far more than the bend in the cross bar.

If it's any help, I've got the wheels loaded both ways on my printer. That is to say, on the Y carriages the wheels run in the upper and lower slots, but on the X carriage, they run in the side slots. The X carriage is "kind of wrong" but it was the only way I could do it. I've been throwing a few kgs of mass around for getting on 2 years, and have had no issues in that respect.

See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinter#Section_Homing_Z for how to set the Z=0 point. If you require further help, please post your homez.g and homeall.g files.