@dc42 I think we briefly talked about this at last years Formnext and is has definitely worked previously 😉 Makes sense for me and that's not the problem - we can use another trigger number in case.
Rather trying to figure out the fan behavior and so on...

You can disconnect the belts and move the motors individually to see if they move correctly. If they do, reconnect the belts and try these tests.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_coreXY#testing-motor-movement

@dc42 Thank you very much! That was it, now it works.

@jay_s_uk Thanks! It works now
@Phaedrux Tank you too!

@deckingman it's all perfectly reasonable. I'm the same, all self taught. I know the challenges.

Hello again,
thank you so much, we just follow all the steps and WIFI is working again.

Thanks 🙂

@dc42 - Thanks for your reply. I will let you know how I get on. For the majority of the harness am using Chainflex Bus cable CFbus.PVC with at each node point a Gravitec RJ11 connector - The bus cable loops through the Gravitech connector. The cable to the RJ11 on the 1HCL is some simple flat 4 core (Unscreened) approx 150mm long with a ferrite core near the Chainflex bus cable.

I will let you know how it works out.

Thanks again

@dc42 thanks again!!! to me this topic is clearly solved!!! thanks for your time!!

Fantastic, clearing the the SSID worked nicely

Yes it has the external antenna. Thanks for your help

@dc42 said in Wire guage for smart effector v2:

@Uzi3L 24awg might be marginal but 22awg or thicker should be OK.

ok thanks. i has some silicone coated 22awg. just got to find and buy some new connectors.

Cheers

@dc42 That's also what I expected but looking at the logs I don't see any warning.
Thank you for the insights on the warnings.

@mjseabright thanks for drawing this to our attention. The product page is wrong; only one daughter board is supported.

You could stack a second daughter board on top of the first if you run a wire from the connector on the top of it to a spare IOx.OUT pin.

@Exerqtor the IO3 pads are not intended for a connector; they are intended for a microswitch, a TCRT1000 optical sensor or a ITR2001/T or compatible optical sensor. For a Hall switch you need three pins (Gnd, IN and +5V) so a 2-pin connector that fits two of the pads would not be sufficient. However, I guess you cold use a 3-pin 2.5mm pitch socket, bend the middle pin back and solder the two outside pins to the Gnd and IN pins of the 3-pin switch footprint. You would still need to pick up +5V from somewhere.

@o_lampe said in Dual extruder orbiterv2:

@deckingman That's right. IIRC your melt chambers were connected through narrow channels which reduce the back-pressure effect. I guess the 'E3D cyclops' works the same . But a 'Diamond'-style hotend would have only one melt chamber....
As you wrote" It depends"

No, actually a Diamond also has multiple melt chambers. The brass cone sits below the heat breaks so anything inside that cone becomes molten and remains molten when the filaments are combined just before the nozzle tip. If you set the mixing ratio to equal percentages for each input, then each individual filament travels at a correspondingly lower speed (so 33% for 3 input Diamond and 20% for a 5 input). So not only do you have a greater surface are over which to conduct heat, but each filament spends longer in each melt chamber before it exits the nozzle. The net result is a vastly increased melt rate.

@bluecvbc well done! Protecting adjacent parts from the hot air - in particular, the plastic parts of connectors - is indeed a problem. In the past I have used sections of corrugated cardboard, faced with Kapton tape to prevent the cardboard catching fire. Nowadays I generally use Cold Gold tape.

@paniha yes a poor connection to a thermistor can cause it to under-read. A poor connection on a PT1000 sensor causes it to over-read.

@Schickfus you will need to select the tool that has that extruder before you can extrude.

@wdenker yes, celcius

I inverted gpio pins 2, 4 and 6 under the pi board (so no more in the ribbon cable) and solder 5v directly on it. Works like I wanted. Thx