It sounds like there is some resistance to the filament feed because it seems that every time you increase the extruder motor current it improves things. That may just be the arrangement of the Bowden tube or a combination of various things. You said in one of your previous posts that the motor was good for 1.7 Amps. Is that the rated current? A good rule of thumb is to set the motor current to 85% of the rated current so 1.44Amps would be about right. As you have discovered, keeping the filament path as straight as possible will also help (as will keeping the Bowden tube as short as possible but without any sharp bends). Some people swear by Capricorn PTFE tubing. I haven't tried it myself but it's supposed to be low friction so it might help.

My 5 colour Diamond hot end uses a modified version of E3D heat sinks and suffered from heat creep causing the filament to swell in the area of the heat break and "bind" inside the PTFE liner. The cure for that was to increase the air flow over the heat sinks so that's something that might be worth trying on your V6 ( a bigger fan).

My 5 reels of filament all sit on horizontal rods similar to yours - albeit quit large diameter printed cylinders that fit over 2020 aluminium extrusion but they still rely on the extruder "dragging" it off the spool but it's not a problem.

Another thing to watch out for is to use just enough but not too much retraction. It is possible to draw molten filament up beyond the heat break where it will solidify and cause a blockage.

HTH

PS. Having just re-read your OP, it sounds very much like the heat creep issue that the standard 5 colour Diamond hot end suffers from. So, I'd try a bigger fan on the heat sink. Oh, and is it a genuine E3D V6 or a clone? If it's a clone, that may well be the cause of all your problems.

Indeed, the problem in the homing files.

In fact, I have now updated the following sys files:

config.g

bed.g

homex.g

homey.g

homez.g

homeall.g

I also updated my slicer pre and post print gcode in accordance with what I learned in this discussion.

The result is that all problems are solved!

I did a test print and it worked perfectly!

Thanks to everyone!

With my most sincere appreciation,
Ciao,
Bob

Hi David,

On that basis print speed of 80mm /sec, jerk speed of 600mm/min = 10mm/sec means that $fn needs to be >= 50.272 so 300 should be more than adequate. Indeed the print head movement is smooth even with pressure advance coefficient set to 0.6. However, I can definitely feel that the filament is being extruded in a jerky manner. It's hard to describe but just gently squeezing the filament between finger and thumb or resting a finger on the extruder gear, it's akin to a vibration and feels like the filament is being fed in a series of short jerky moves rather than a continuous stream. If I set the pressure advance to zero, it feels normal. It's undetectable by eye.

This is all with a single extruder tool btw - mixing ratio of 1.0:0.00:0.00:0.00:0.00.

@McAdam:

@deckingman:

Don't know if it's a clue but in the OP, the layer count is out as well. Almost as if the print was terminated early.

I just had grabbed the text from whatever was printing. The print completed successfully 🙂

Er, in that case I'm not sure that I understand the problem. In your OP you stated that the web interface reported that a certain amount of filament used, a certain amount of filament needed in total and certain amount of filament required to complete the print. But this was before the print was completed so I don't understand how you conclude that the filament usage was out by 30%. What did it report at the end of the print?

Good work! I'm glad you finally made it run.

You'll find with 0.8mm nozzles that the surface area of the nozzle is 4 times larger than with a 0.4mm nozzle. So if you could go 200mm/s max with 0.4 you will max out the rate you can melt plastic at 50mm/s.

Workarounds,

print slower, it sounds counterintuitive but you're still laying down the same volume/sec but with thicker, stronger lines of extrusion. use higher temperatures, it doesn't really fix it that much as Tom S' recent Q&A with e3d explained its the ability to transfer heat to the filament that counts not heater power or absolute temperature. But a little more thermal gradient helps.

The standby temperature is set by the R parameter in the G10 command. However, a heater needs to be turned on before the standby temperature is applied. Here is a possible sequence if you are starting with the tool heater turned off:

G10 P0 R100 ; set standby temperature of tool 0 to 100C
T0 P0 ; make tool 0 active without running tool change files
T-1 P0 ; put tool 0 on standby without running tool change files

If what you want to do is to set the standby temperatures for a two colour print, just use the appropriate G10 Rxxx commands in your slicer start code.

I found out that with Cura if you save a profile it remembers start gcode and end gcode code. Even though it remembers your settings from everything else normally without making a profile.. Now I can close it turn off the computer come back to it and everything is like I left it!!

So that solves that!

Feel free to add this feature request to the wish list at https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=961. Many of the items on that list have now been implemented, so I will start a new list soon.

ABS is back printing used window cleaner on the print bite still playing with settings will be adding piezo style probe to it but with a twist wanted to avid probe but the rate the aluminium changed bed level is unreal on this canter leaver design (new design rectify this !) spent most of the evening removing bits of belt from my clamping method with a needle !

Thanks!

Thanks for sharing.

BTW, I may have found a solution for a heatsink-less Diamond: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,787886,792336#msg-792336

Unless you are running an old firmware version, you should remove the M301 commands from config.g and tune the heaters as described at https://duet3d.com/wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control.

I'm marking this as solved, as I believe that was the issue David. Thanks!

T5 fixed it, thanks.

Kulitorum

Ok, So I made an assumption that my PEI sheet was working ok with the IR Probe 😞
You are correct, the underside of the PEI is not painted - but the surface is very dull and matt looking as opposed to the usual transparent PEI.
You are correct again, The tape measures only 0.15mm thick so the difference should not be that big. So I guess the IR probe is somehow going through the PEI Sheet (which is about 1.3mm thick)….

Damn - I read that there was a chance sanded PEI would work with the IR Probe - I guess not in my case.
The issue is these PEI sheets come with the 3m Adhesive already attached - and none of the other PEI sheets I have tried have worked well for me.

I guess its time to look for another probe then 😞

Thanks David. No, I don’t have a config-override.g file, but changing diagonal rod length still makes no difference. I have no idea why.

However - M579 worked perfectly! I had thought from the RepRap code help page that it only worked with cartesian printers, and not with delta, but all is good. Thank you. 🙂

I did find a .18mm difference of the ball spacing on the X carriage adapter. Loosened the nut and pushed the balls away from each other and got them all measuring the same. I did notice that the studs on the balls were different when trying to install them on the effector. First thought a hole was cut wrong. First ball stud fell right in and the second was too tight.

Everything is leveling out great.

I do have wheeled carriages that are made from acrylic with acentric adjusters on the wheels. They are nice and tight to the extrusion, but I am going to go ahead and get some linear rails just to get rid of one more variable.

Despite the weeble wobble, it still calibrates decent and prints good. I should have put the level on my old effector and gave it a run around to see what it had done.

Why thanks. Any other suggestions?

your are great, ill try that.