One cause of vertical lines in a print is DRV8825 and similar drivers failing to implement low-current microstepping. Changing the layer height so that it is not an exact number of full steps causes the problem to occur at different positions in each layer, so the positions do not line up and the lines are much less visible.

The symptom being described at the top of this thread appears to be different, although if the layer height for these prints is not an exact number of full steps then it could be related.

My guess is that it's extrusion-related. If so, then if the print is repeated with a different extrusion width, then the spacing of the lines will change in proportion.

Peirof

As David says G32 is used on a delta for Calibration. This is more than just getting a level bed. For a delta to work properly the delta parameters must be correctly configured. That can be done manually but with RepRapFirmware and a Z probe the automatic delta calibration is much quicker and probably much more accurate than can be achieved manually.

If you have a flat bed plate and don't have other artifacts in the delta printer design/assembly that cause the effector to change height across the build area then you may not need to do mesh bed compensation (G29). That said few printers are built perfectly and few surfaces are perfectly flat. I just say this because it's important to get calibration done properly (G32) before going for mesh bed compensation.

Yes, that setting in S3D would cause that problem, so disable it.

@dc42:

IDEX perhaps?

IDEX Sounds interesting and complicated. I like it!

In order to move it at the back I think I must choose user specified. I also tried with sharpest corner but did not had effect.

To test a Z probe, use a simple G30 command. That should probe the bed at the current XY position. The Z movement should stop when the probe is triggered.

@dc42:

The G92 Z command should only be used if you are homing with a Z-min endstop switch. The Z parameter should be the distance between the nozzle and the bed at which the bed stops when the G1 S1 Z-xxx command in homez.g or homeall.g is executed. You must use the same value in homeall.g and homez.g, unless homeall.g calls homez.g to do Z homing.

Cheers, got it all working now!

@Dougal1957:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Round-Bullseye-Spirit-Level-Bubble-12mm/322198500470?hash=item4b0486f476Ⓜmt_o3et2cj8-H9SRpAaTEug

Ordered - Thanks!

I'm glad you solved it. The firmware tries to position the probe at the points you define in bed.g, taking account of the offset. So the coordinates you specify need to be reachable by the probe, not the nozzle.

Ok, so the problem was

; Tell the firmware where we are
G92 Z2.5

this line of gcode from homeall.g .I have disabled it and now it's working great. I can't believe, such a thiny detail… But now I understand the point.

Now, how can I make to have the ressurect.g file to be saved automatically to SD Card?

The M104 commands should not cause tool changes, but the M109 commands will.

You can configure S3D do generate G10 commands to set temperatures instead of M104 and M109 commands, and in your start gcode use M116 to wait for temperature to be reached.

Alright, so it looks like it was an issue with the 3DTouch. I bought a BLTouch and got it installed today. So far no steps have been skipped!

AH, that makes a lot more sense, thanks for info.

Interesting, did you have a PanelDue plugged in?

From my experience if I go beyond 5 mm the filament will clogg the hotend because it's entering in the sweet spot and it can cool down too fast or it can be in a pre-melted transition. If you have the option coasting you should enable it. Cura have it. I have 3.2 mm retraction with a bowden tube of 700mm lenght. I'm using e3dv6 original. Also I have retract extra prime -0.08mm.

I know, because I learned this the same way you did 😉

Just a follow up. I wanted to show how close I've gotten it to be exactly what it's supposed to be. I haven't re-calibrated it since I posted the other day on 6th of Nov. I wanted to print out some brackets I made to mount something together. I have these set on lowest quality, but it's looking pretty good. Even printed four at once and they came out really close to the same… Not really a difference to talk about..

The X is a small bit off hardly noticeable, but Y and Z couldn't get more accurate lol... My first post at top talked about egg shaped holes. Looks like everything is working top notch now. thanks for everyone's help!!!!

Yeah I saw the belt tension bit after I had posted the above and got fed up watching it

Yes you can home using a microswitch and just use the probe for bed compensation. See https://www.duet3d.com/wiki/Configuring_RepRapFirmware_for_a_Cartesian_printer#Homing_Z.