Here is My M307:

M307 H1 A21.5 C244.3 D5.6 B0

The speed didn't really help… now I keep getting

Error: heating fault on heater 1, temperature excursion exceeded 15.0C

&

Error: heating fault on heater 1, temperature rising much more slowly than the expected 0.0°C/sec

I believe that it could be noise… is it normal that the values keep changing even after the fault?

How do we fix that issue?
Is there specific wires that can protect from that?

Is there a way for a fault to cause a pause?

For PETG printing that could help saving on material, low warping so the pause shouldn't be an issue... a code that we could input at the beginning of each print that would cause a pause until cancelled or until the heater is back at the correct temperature and then continues the print

DR8 do you then set the Z offset to 0 in your slic3r?

Thank you for the suggestion, will do the testing, I actually have a PID controller with a K-type Thermocouple probe for a different project.

Very important! Check that if you disconnect the thermistors, the temperature in the web interface reads as error. If instead it reads a very low temperature, reduce the H parameters until it does report error, then reduce them a bit more.

How much of an issue is it IF I can't bring error while trying the Very important check above?

Ok guys, thanks alot for the answers! I'll do my best and If I'll have problems I'll write here.

The Z axis should always point up, no matter what type of printer you have. If that results in X and Y being swapped compared to your printer, then you have the axes swapped on your printer, and all the prints you do will be mirrored. Do a print that doesn't have left-right or front-back symmetry and you will see what I mean.

Your heater is massively over-powered. Are you using a 12V heater with a 24V supply?

@Willy510:

Try putting an M82 not M83 in your start code and that should fix it

Yeah works…..I haven't thought about it....damn.....Thank you

No it isn't

So I tried the autotune and it failed.

I was just poking around the nozzle and looking at things. The barrel of the heater was pretty loose, I tightened that up. The autotune still failed, but interestingly enough everything is back to normal after tightening up. It looks like everything is stable.

Question is, why is it still failing the autotune.. a bit concerning. Any thoughts?

Auto tune of heater 1 failed due to bad curve fit (G=1545.9, tc=137.1, td=4.2)

Great thanks !

Interpolation only works at x16.

Your config looks ok to me.The ZA and ZB connectors are wires in series to a single Z driver, so you don't need to refer to them separately in config.g.

My house and (or) board are (is) seriously haunted…
I restarted my printer and now it seems to be working perfectly...

@number40fan:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-2pcs-Ball-Bearing-4cm-40mm-x-10mm-Blower-Fan-12V-Brushless-Cooling-fan-2pin/263060496493?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Grab a set of these. Saves a lot of room and they push some air. With my fan and nozzle, it is right at 50mm tall and fits under my effector mounted vertically. Working on a new mount to put both fans on there.

I ordered the set of two. Thanks for the link!

No, I meant 1% of the Bowden tube length. I use 4mm on my Ormerod (350mm Bowden tube) and before I enabled pressure advance I needed 7mm on my delta (60mm Bowden tube).

I have a aluminium heat bed painted black and with a 6mm sheet of glass on top of it so it is 100% flat.
just did a mesh grid using the BLTouch and another with the DC42 IR Probe. can anyone help with it?why both of then are giving bad results?
BLTouch

DC42 IR Probe

@darve16:

I had this same problem! My print head was visibly stuttering during perimeters where one perimeter pass would end and the next concentric perimeter pass would start. The issue was my jerk speed was too low. For some reason, M566 in the config.g file for jerk or instantaneous speed change is in units of mm/min rather than mm/sec, so you have to be cognizant of that when you dial in your settings. I just stepped mine up to 2400 mm/min (40 mm/sec) and now my perimeters are printing beauteously, and not leaving an obvious bump where the part's seam is.

I really hope this solves your problem. It solved it for me!

I don't know if you'll see this, but THANK YOU! This turned out to be exactly my problem.

If the Duet is quite old, then the most likely cause of the problem is that the PHY chip isn't adequately soldered to the PCB. When this happens, using hot air rework equipment to reflow it sometimes fixes the problem. Otherwise the PHY chip needs to be replaced.