It could well be that my gauge isn't as accurate as I'd hoped. Will have another play this evening with 2.54 as the pitch to see what results that gives me.

Excellent, thanks guys.

I've managed to resolve the issues as noted, here is my updated config.g for anyone lurking on this forum with the same issue. As stated each of these machines are different so ymmv.

[[language]] ; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 1.17) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sat Jul 22 2017 23:44:03 GMT+0000 ; General preferences M111 S0 ; Debugging off G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin M667 S1 ; Select CoreXY mode M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima M208 X200 Y190 Z155 S0 ; Set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 Y1 Z1 S0 ; Define active low and unused microswitches M558 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 H5 F120 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds G31 P600 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M557 X15:185 Y15:175 S20 ; Define mesh grid ; Drives M569 P0 S0 ; X Goes Forwards M569 P1 S1 ; Y Goes Backwards M569 P2 S0 ; Z Goes Backwards M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X87.489 Y87.489 Z4000 E420 ; Set steps per mm M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X6000 Y6000 Z180 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X500 Y20 Z250 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M906 X1400 Y1400 Z1400 E1400 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout ; Heaters M143 S260 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 260C M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C ; Network M550 PHypercube ; Set machine name M552 S1 ; Enable network M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP M586 P1 S1 ; Enable FTP M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet ; Fans M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on ; Custom settings are not configured

Off to fiddle!

Thanks again~

I might break out my gopro one of these days and do a recording with a high jerk setting so we can compare the noise across different parts and moves.

I have a unique printer design that is rather light and strong at the same time so turning it up really isnt going to damage much more than the motors and we'll be able to hear when jerk is applied

I would love to do it now but I am in the middle of building a craft studio for my wife and in my free time am designing a new type of bowden extruder for flexible filaments

Glad you're making progress. As for the bowden tube how about getting rid of it altogether? I can see the point of them but they are a workaround for the problem of trying to get the mass off the effector (or carriage). There are numerous inherent reasons why they are bad, the filament is a loose fit in the tube and basically has to be or it would bind (the problem you've been having), because of this the filament can spiral inside the tube under pressure, exhibiting elastic properties, and it might even have some elasticity f its own. All of this adds up to far less precise filament control.

Sure you can buy new fangled capricorn 1.8mm bowden tube with (and I struggle to believe this) even slipperier teflon, you can put cooking oil on your filament cleaning sponge, you can use pressure advance on RRF/Duet to offset the elastic effect caused by the bowden tube. These are all great bodges, but are blown entirely out of the water by two other approaches. The flying extruder, which shortens (by around 2/3), and straightens your bowden tube moving the extruder to a platform suspended on elastic above the effector, You can also achieve this like Deckingman has on a corexy with a passive or active second gantry for your extruder/s and the flexible drive extruder where a remote (and stationary) motor turns a flex-shaft to drive a direct extruder on the effector or carriage.

I wouldn't have been able to see the difference if when I had a kossel mini, I didn't also have an i3. The difference in precision of laying down filament directly rather than via the tube was very apparent.

If you are going to keep your bowden tube make it as short as possible, mount the extruder midway up a tower and eliminate as much bend as possible.

The calibration algorithm assumes that the bed is flat and the geometry is accurate except for those things that auto calibration adjusts. If your build has other types of geometric error or a non-flat bed, it will give incorrect results.

Calibrating diagonal rod length automatically is not advised unless you are able to probe points a long way outside the triangle formed by the towers.

Thank you.

Hi, I have two printers with DuetWiFis and access both using Chrome on a Linux machine with no problems whatsoever. I don't use mDNS (printer-name.local) as that has failed before now. Instead, I use their IP addresses and never have connection issues. When the mDNS fails, the .local name can't be resolved even though the Duet is still accessible using its IP address. The mDNS failures have also occurred with other hardware that uses a different brand of WiFi module so it remains a mystery as to what is going wrong as mDNS works here for all other computers with no problems.

Duet WiFi boards have unique MAC addresses. Duet Ethernet boards used to use the same default MAC address (along with Duet 0.6 and 0.8.5 boards), but in 1.19 series firmware the Duet Ethernet MAC address is derived from the unique MCU ID. So two or more Duet Ethernet boards will almost certainly have different MAC addresses when using 1.19 series firmware.

That is great news. Thank you so much. I will test the beta then.

First a bit of history:

G10 was originally defined by the NIST GCode standard as "Set coordinate system", meaning set offsets from an origin Adrian Bower chose to use G10 to set tool offsets from the origin (I presume because it is a similar function) and documented this in the wiki at reprap.org, and also to set tool temperatures Some other developers (probably Marlin or Repetier devs) ignored that allocation, and chose to use G10 for firmware retraction, which I find completely illogical Some slicers started supporting G10 to do firmware retraction Eventually someone documented the alternative use of G10 to do firmware retraction in the reprap.org wiki In order to support slicers that send G10 to command firmware retraction, RRF supports both uses of G10.

So in RRF, G10 with no parameters means do a retraction, and G10 with any recognised parameters means set tool parameters (i.e. set tool offsets and/or temperatures).

AFAIK, no other firmware has adopted G10 to set tool offsets and temperatures. But no other firmware supports multiple tools anything like as well as RRF does either. Neither does any other firmware provide automatic support for using separate active/standby temperatures for tool heaters.

Heaters in RRF can be in the following states: off, standby, active, fault, and tuning:

Off means what it says. Sending M0 turns all heaters off, except if the print is paused and there is a cancel.g file. Active means that the heater is heating up to/maintaining the temperature of a tool that uses that heater. Standby means that the heater is not used by the current tool, but was previously used by a selected tool, so it is maintaining the standby temperature for that tool. This is especially useful in printers with more than one nozzle, because you can keep the inactive nozzle warm ready for printing, but at less than printing temperature to prevent oozing.

On a Diamond hot end you have only one physical nozzle, so I don't think standby temperatures are relevant to you.

In order to print, you need to have a tool selected. Selecting a tool automatically sets its heaters to their active temperatures.

So the recommended sequence for the slicer start gcode is:

1. Start heating the bed using M140 S[bed_temperature].

2. Set tool active temperatures (and standby temps if they are relevant) e.g. for tool 0 use G10 P0 S[first_layer_temperature].

3. If desired, use M116 to wait for the bed to reach temperature. You can swap #2 and #3 if you like.

4. Select the tool e.g. T0

5. M116 to wait for all temperatures

6. Print

7. To change tool, just send the appropriate T command. No need to mess with temperatures.

8. At the end of the print, use M0 to deselect all tools and turn all heaters off.

HTH David

It's looking like my mind was locked into an incorrect, or perhaps just different, concept of Y axis max and min. After finding a thread stating Y min was the front edge of the bed when facing the printer, I reversed the direction of the Y motor, changed the endstop from min to max and changed the homey.g and homeall.g files then, voila, the Z printed in the correct orientation. There's still a little skepticism in me after going down so many empty rabbit trails. Hopefully a few good prints will remove any remaining doubts and free my mind to tackle installing the Reprap Champion silicon bed heater that toasted my G2 board.

Might be mis-confgured as falling signal M558 I1 when it should be rising signal m558 I0 (or no I switch at all).

Hello
I had to upgrade to 1.19beta and it works.
Antoine

I always presumed the firmware moved on to the next gcode as this was some sort of look ahead function given that at 2.5 deg C below the set heater temp, it was heading in that direction, so might as well save time and move on to the next command.

Ignore my message above, I got the wrong end of the stick.

Has anyone experience with the IR sensor and black color PEI sheet?
Like this: https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B06XHK217S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1500030592&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pei+3d+druck&dpPl=1&dpID=31cdHAayG4L&ref=plSrch

Thanks

Fixing the blobs isnt the heat… just because it works doesnt mean its the right thing to do.

What is your pressure advance settings, does exactly 100mm of filament come out when you extrude with hotend detached?

You really need to get a caliper, they can be found at harbor freight for cheap.

Can't reproduce this. That is to say, setting jerk to 2400 from1200 for X and Y doesn't exhibit the alarmingly fast behaviour I saw yesterday. Maybe I did something stupid like type 24000 instead of 2400?

Ref step errors - they are in fact a product of the problems I'm having with pressure advance. That is to say, M122 didn't show any step errors when changing XY jerk to 2400 from 1200 but after I set pressure advance to 0.4, I get step errors if I do M122 while it is in process of making a (jerky) circular move.

a nice learning curve, thanks for your patients,

I had a spare 12v, heating filament, so i have instead installed that.

Thanks for the info, I would soon upgrade to 24v,

This CASE is SOLVED