Thank you for the recommendations on how to improve the documentation, I really appreciate this!
I have edited the wiki here:
Also you need to add M501 to the end of the config.g if its not there already.
It was explained in M501 section of the gcode page but not M500 so I added that:
Thanks for the tips. That's a great idea of adjusting the parameters every 10 layers, I will give that a try. I am running the same accel and jerk settings on the other axes but have not spent any time tuning these and have been happy with the performance until I tried to use pressure advance.
If you put the M350 command to change microstepping after you have already set the steps/mm using M92, then the steps/mm will be changed automatically to account for the changed microstepping. You can see this by sending M92 with no parameters to see what the new values are.
You need to allow cold extrudes (temporary of course). So you can use the extruder without a hotend attached.
M302: Allow cold extrudes
This command can be used without any additional parameters.
Pnnn Cold extrude allow state (RepRapFirmware)
M302 ; Report current state
M302 P1 ; Allow cold extrusion (this is what you type in)
thank you for the tip, grazie timcurtis67
Have you read https://duet3d.com/wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer ?
No I had not found that section - it appears to answer all of my questions.
Got to hand it to you all - you have some first rate documentation - one of the reasons I am rebuilding all of my printers with DuetWifi boards.
I made a lot of more tests and for me the problem seems to be related to the speed difference between infill and walls or between inner outer wall(s).
When printing the object with constant speed, even high one (e.g. 80 mm/s), for all features the quality is better than with different infill/wall speed.
Also printing more walls is not helpful but identical speed for all walls will improve the quality as well.
In summary my printer, hotend (E3D V6) or settings can not handle speed changes well with respect of constant extrusion.
As far I understand pressure advance should be a solution for such issues however not for me (tried various settings).
My solution for now: infill at 80 mm/s, three walls at 40 mm/s.
I ran into the same situation with my T3P3 Kossel XL for a couple weeks (2 issues resolved a week a part)
Pulley not tight enough (slipping)
Pulley not on correct position of shaft (too far in or out)
Once I corrected those build / mechanical issues, flawless with near consistent 0.017 std dev between calibration runs; no bed mesh compensation needed.
Thanks, I'll put the T0 into the config.
My intention is to use the web interface, but I print in a garage and my WiFi signal is weak. I haven't got a network cable in there yet. I am looking to use a WiFi extender, but I'm keen to get my 3d printer back up and running again. Anyway the advice dc42 gave me has fixed the heater problem. So time to get steppers working now.
You would know best,
I think it would be very easy to set up with some M commands to have the end stops to act as the Z probe.
so you can home the delta,
the test each end stop one at a time,
the G code would:
1. select the end stop in test to act as the Z probe ( so we can still use the G30 P command,)
2. configure to run the motor reverse for the end stop being tested.
3. run the selected G30 P# S-1x number of times then report back the mean and deviation ( this would only activate the one motor for that end stop)
4. run G code to select the next end stop / motor to be tested and run step 3 again
5. do the next end stop Ect.
6 configure back the to standard settings in the config.g
I would think that with your understanding of how each M command configures things we should be able to do this in this manner described above.
that was just a description and I'm sure it will be more complicated than that but that's the basic idea…
Well, no error messages or codes, it just kinda decided to run bed leveling starting from away from the endstop and moving toward it. After it scaring me twice, I reset the x probe area to 200 and let it run and it works fine.
My map comes up with the axis indicator(those xyz lines that form a partial box) on the right now instead of the left, kinda confusing at first but it works so I must adapt.
And I did get a perfect first layer so it's definitely functioning right.
I'll mark this as answered because it does work.
I adjusted my voltage to 13.06v (the pot changed tons for just a tiny movement, so I called it good) and my heated bed will now reach 105 C uninsulated by the cork sheet on top, so that's nice. It also heats up to my usually temperatures (60 and 70 C) noticeably faster. I think I'm going to call it good for now.