Topics created by bberger

The connector looks like a Molex microfit 3 (?).

I use the Molex tool HT60923A aka 0011030043. It's easy to remove once you get the technique, inserting from the front on the right and left sides of the pin and on each side, rotate it a little back and forth to release the pin. It works for both male and female Microfit 3.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=molex+HT60923A&atb=v88-4_g&iax=images&ia=images

Thank you for the quick response! Sounds like ~50-60C would be the reasonable target then.

@bberger I am currently preparing iHSV servomotor mounts with 3:1 drive reduction for my corexy printer. I have designed and printed the mounts to directly replace the original motor mounts and will be installing and testing them in a week or two (waiting for Duet expansion board to arrive). I had previously tried driving the printer directly with the servomotors but found the resolution of their Hall effect encoders was insufficient for 3D printing. The new motor mounts use 20 and 60 tooth pulleys with F625 bearings and 5 mm shafts to do the reduction. Here is one of the two motor mounts:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zc6jSDT3b6pQi9ok7

The motors are good for 3000 rpm, so with 3:1 reduction driving a 20 tooth pulley in the corexy mechanism, they should be good for up to 666 mm/sec. That's faster than I would ever expect to print, but larger drive pulleys would allow higher speeds. The motors have plenty of "grunt" to move the mechanism- much more than the steppers.

@CCS86 said in Input Shaping - why (not effective on some parts at all):

My biggest issue with it right now is with the lack of application on short segments. Most of my prints have radiused corners, so IS doesn't get applied at all. This is also the case for the start of a circular outer perimeter, since those are short segments as well.

We are looking at how to handle IS on short segments - its on the work list.

I try to replicate the conditions that will be present during a print when I tune.

So typically I will start by tuning the bed, and when it's finished and still warm, I will tune the hotend with it 10-20mm above the bed.

It's worked fine so far. However it probably isn't critical to getting good results.

For anyone wondering, this is what I'm concerned about:
https://youtu.be/504USJkVbjc

@baenwort said in Molex Microfit (or compatible) for the Smart Effector V2 or V3?:

I feel that universal crimps give poor results more often than good

What do you consider to be 'universal crimp', Engineer like tools or also their party ratchet crimpers?

Perfection is often prohibitively expensive and cupeled with an all-or-nothing approach we end up with nothing.

@bberger said in Macro for K-Factor (Pressure Advance) Calibration:

On another note:

Is there a better way to calculate extrusion amount in RRF? (respectively a better formula than that from a multi-year old slic3r wiki?).

I already know that I need to adjust the line gap for the anchor frame (they currently overlap, didn't bother to use a formula for that).

can I query filament diameter and nozzle diameter from the object model? I remember that there is a gcode implemented in RRF that allows you to define nozzle diameter and filament width for the print monitor. Could be an improvement to make this work for various nozzle sozes and filament diameters without the need to edit the macro too much.

This could also be a nice idea for a DWC plugin some day.. pretty sure that it could be better handled as plugin in python than a gcode macro.

For 1. that is the classic shape of an extruded line (stadium cross section). I don't think its a issue to do it that way. as long as its consistent because PA is a factor not an absolute. Slicers may use different formulas for setting the extrusion amount (and thus get different line widths) but i don't think that matters.

For 2. There is M404 https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m404-filament-width however most people wont be using it so not a good idea to rely on.

For 3. Yes potentially a "tuning" plugin for DWC/DSF or both would be useful.

@weed2all said in E3D V6 blue heatsink - did they change pitch size?!:

@bberger I have printed m12 x1mm pitch nut for my 2 e3d blue heatsink and I did left the red whasher in place as it won't weight to much and prevent scratching the fine strands on smart effector if the printed nut have some imperfection on them ...

Not concerned about weight, but I'm a little bit concerned about giving the hotend more chances to wobble around when it's not needed.

@3mm the BMG with a pancake nema 17 (in my case a Moon's) weighted in about 290g (75g for the BMG, ~200g for the motor, plus bowden coupler, silicon hose, bowden tube, ..).

The orbiter is 135g, so less than half the weight. It however isn't the weight on the flying extruder I'm concerned about, it's the yanking of the bowden tube (in my case was ~150mm) on my 380mm bed delta that I suspect is the source for artifacts I saw.

I can run 5k acc/600jerk/no input shaping/100mms-150mms, 0.015 PA, 0.6mm retractions with the direct mounted (on a 7cm tall, petg printed stand and tilted) Orbiter V2 with almost none / negligible artifacts.

I wasn't able to do that with my flying BMG.. had to run 3k/300jerk/~70mm/0.4 PA/1.5mm retractions for worse quality than on the current direct drive solution.

@bberger I have the same problem with increasing the 12mm gap but keeping 55mm arm spacing. My 'solution' is to cut the clip off the connector - I use a pre wired strain relieved molex plug which has a very tight fit, which I am sure is not going to come adrift.

@bberger What microstepping do you use on your extruder? If you run M122 when you get the problem, does it show a high hiccup count?

@tekstyle What is "true" leveling? Is it a bed that (needs to) adjusts itself every time you power up the printer, or is it a bed that doesn't go out of level in the first place? I think a lot of people think they want autoleveling, but what they really want is to not have to level the bed themselves before every print. If you use multiple motors, you have to use some autoleveling scheme because you used multiple motors. If you use a single motor to drive multiple screws or belts, they will remain in sync and once the bed is leveled, it will remain level without requiring extra motors, cables, drivers, sensors, etc.

@bot said in XY Acceleration / Speed / Resolution on a Delta:

https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/b/b5/Rostock_Delta_Kinematics_3.pdf

It's been a while, but thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for.

Let's see if I got this right:

if you care about XY accuracy don't print in the center but along the long sides. For Z go for the middle.

If you need equal accuracy on 3 parts either print them one by one or rotate each them by 120 degrees and place them at opposite towers.

Did I get that right?

Now that I know the expected max errors for different parts of the bed, is there something similar regarding resolution?

Edit:

A few thoughts later: I could however just mount a 3.5" HDMI screen and drive it off a Raspberry/cheap Android Device and adjust the DWC for that resolution.. I'm a webdev after all..

Edit2:

Actually the DWC looks like it meets exactly my competence.. Vue.js + Vuetify.