Topics created by Dizzwold

@Dizzwold yes it's safe t connect IO_IN pins to 5V. On Duet 3 they are rated at 30V or 50V depending on the board version. Make sure that the negative side of the 5V supply is connected to negative VIN.

I've built two printers with two different solutions. The one in my garage has all the electronics mounted on a piece of 5mm plywood, and the one in the makerspace uses 1/4" acrylic. Both of these were cut using the laser at the makerspace. It leaves nice, clean holes, and the laser allows a complicated shape, if this is needed. People will probably complain that neither material meets safety regulations for fire suppression, so that's something to think about.

@Phaedrux @Maestro

@Phaedrux. the heater isn't fully bonded with silicone. It's fully bonded with Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket, then High Temperature silicone around most the perimeter overlapping the heater.
My understanding is the Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket can be removed with IPA.

The smoke which I thought originated from Arcing/melting of the foam/foil backing on the safety sheet persists.

I'd temporarily rewired everything and reassembled the printer, then found the smoke again, so I tried placing cameras with the build plate in-situ on the printer, but this didn't helped find where the smoke was coming from, other than the back right corner.

I wired everything up to bench with 2M cables running from the printer in it's enclosure across the floor and onto my work bench.
Guess what, No smoke???
Heater worked.

I'm wondering if it's, when I put the bed assembly on to the printer, I'm accidentally touching the lead screws and getting grease from the lead screws onto the edge of the bed. Then when I heat the bed it's burning off.

I'm going to have do more investigating, and I've now put some lengths or 20mm plumbing pipe over the lead screws.

IMG_3890.jpg

I've also since found this 'plug-in' RCD (buried in the garage). Weather this will be the correct type, at-least it should give some addition protection for the time being.
IMG_3891.jpg
IMG_3892.jpg
I've also ordered some DIN Rail terminals, and I'm going to build an individual wall mounted frame for all the electronics, and electrical, as it's just a tangled mess at the moment.

@dc42 @oliof

Hi Guys,

Thank you for your replies and confirming.

Very grateful.

Dizzwold.

@Dizzwold See https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_laser
This needs a little updating (on my to-do list!) but is good guide to get started.

Raster clustering, which speeds up raster engraving, is supported in RRF 3.5.0-beta3 and later. Lightburn supports this, I don't know if other laser gcode generation software does. RRF also supports G2 and G3 arcs in laser mode, though Lightburn doesn't!.

Ian

Okay, posted as follows;
DWC on Computer Screen RESET MACHiNE from Emergency Stop
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/34675/dwc-on-computer-screen-reset-machine-from-emergency-stop

@deckingman
Going back to the toolplate bed, I'm going to use the following connector mounted to the bed frame. The idea being that I can disconnect the cables so I can remove the bed (the printer will be in a cupboard, tight on space, so less weight with moving the frame in and out).
Nampn9R4Q8K%G%dD7%2z2g.jpg
Being that this is now a Mains 240Vac bed heater, and I have spare pins on the connector, I'm thinking on the grounds of safety and running some kind of signal loop (5/12v on a relay), so when the connector is disconnected, the break in the (5/12v) signal loop will disconnect the mains with the relay (if I've not already done so), so there is no loose Live Mains cable floating around.
At the moment I have a1 SSR controlling the 240Vac mains bed switched directly by the 24v O/P from the Duet 6HC.
So I'm looking for ideas.
Should I use a mechanical relay in series with the mains from the SSR, or is there a good chance this will weld closed?
Use another SSR, again in series with the switched mains;
Screen Shot 2024-01-14 at 16.57.47.png
Dizzwold.

@mrehorstdmd @deckingman

Hi Ian,

Thank you for your advice. I'm most grateful.

Hi Mark,

Glad to help and actually contribute for a change.

Are either of you moderators, or can put the Gates Timing Belt info in a file somewhere, where everyone can access it easily from the forum main page or something?
I think most users of the forum use Gates belts (or similar), so could be very handy for others.

Thanks again,

Dizzwold.

@jay_s_uk

Thank you for your reply.

@jay_s_uk said in Last Print Duration and Deleted Job Files?:

And no, its held in the object model until a reboot or the next print

That's a shame. Even with all the soundproofing I've installed my neighbour claims the printer kept him up all night one day last week even though the printer was running 24/7 all week.
I just wanted to check the speed settings of printed items (now removed/deleted), from when he said he couldn't hear the printer.
My soundproofing can be seen in the following thread;
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/33985/change-print-speed-duringprint/7?_=1698840269420

That sure could do it. It wouldn't be using any of your other settings, only the bottom layer settings all the way up.

@fcwilt ,

Mmm, Lamb Tagine

@Phaedrux ,

Thank you for that. I'll read up on this.

@infiniteloop You still miss the point. The DC UPS is just that - the (7Ah) batteries only cut in when mains power fails and will keep the machine running for over an hour. I never said that I use a 2Amp power supply. In fact I still use the much larger (Meanwell) DIN rail mounted supply that I used when the machine had 7 axes (CoreXYUVAB) and 6 extruders and a two zone hot end with two 80 Watt heaters. My point remains that most people over estimate the power requirements of their machines and waste money buying an over-specified PSU. For sure, leave some head room for future expansion, for sure use a quality PSU, but one that is capable of supplying 4,6,8 or 10 times the required power is a waste of money and can be dangerous because it might not trip if a fault on the machine develops.

@jay_s_uk @jens55 @Herve_Smith

Yes, Multiple threads from the same person and I thought it was working correctly.
I've had to remove my printer from it's enclosure (as it were), disconnect everything, so I could work inside the enclosure. I needed to quickly print a few items for inside the enclosure before I can put everything back (not realising I need to print anything before removing it all). So I've connected it all back together on my work bench.
The part cooling fan was on 100% and wouldn't turn off, the tool heater couldn't be found, machine reset, all to name a few issues when I switched it on.
I isolated this to my emergency stop button that was basically putting the printer into a constant emergency stop.
Don't ask me why, it just did, when it worked fine before???

Yep following the guide below states to use 3.3v and ioxin, not ioxin and gnd.
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/IO_E_stop

I'll give the ioxin and gnd a try tomorrow.

Thanks guys for your advice.

@Dizzwold you need to connect the button between the ioX.in and ground pins, not between ioX.in and +3.3V.

@Phaedrux @chrishamm

I've just updated to 3.4.6.

M401 and M402 now work as they should.

When I type M98 P"config.g" I still get the following response and have to manually press stop on the paneldue;
Connection lost, attempting to reconnect...

Maybe this is a bug similar to the following thread;
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/33139/further-connection-issues?_=1692864007271

Dizzwold

@chrishamm

26/08/2023, 10:01:07 M115
FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 3 MB6HC FIRMWARE_VERSION: 3.4.6 ELECTRONICS: Duet 3 MB6HC v1.01 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2023-07-21 14:11:38

Sorry, but the issue still persists?

I'd just made some changes to my config.g and clicked Run Config File.

Screen Shot 2023-08-26 at 09.54.25.png

If I click Restart MainBoard there's no problem?

Dizzwold

@Maestro

Thank you for taking the time to check this over. I'm most grateful.

Here's where I'm at currently with the bed, where the Earth cables for the bed frame and 3mm safety plate are loose. The cable running around the inner perimeter of the heat mat is the lead coming from the heater, to the TCO. I had thought about cutting this down, but then thought to just stick it in-place.
Hn6aHqHlQWCicklyCbeZSw.jpg

iHHt9jfWTuC2A84s6I5yhg.jpg

I've also got some of that aluminium foil/closed cell foam of various thicknesses that I can also add, to sandwich between the heater and safety sheet if want.

Thank you again for you time and input.

Dizzwold.

@droftarts

Hi Ian,

Okay, that make sense.

I'll give it a go when I tinker some more.

Thank you for the detailed reply.

Dizzwold.

@droftarts

Okay, Thank you Ian.

Dizzwold.