Topics created by tomasf

Thanks for the insight. I have replaced the cable with a different type and replaced the heater+thermistor. The new heater, connected to the E2 heater output, now heats. The hotend fan, connected to FAN2, also works.

Unfortunately, the bed heater seems dead, too. This makes me think that it might not be the wiring of the effector that caused this whole mess. But who knows.

Unfortunately #2, I can't get any thermistor channel to work either. The temperature hovers around 30-31 degrees, varying slightly, which makes it look reasonable, but it never changes when the actual temperature rises, and the firmware faults after a few seconds. It even stays the same temperature even if I completely disconnect the thermistor wires! (Perhaps the bed thermistor does still work, but I can't tell since the bed never heats up anyway.)

So I think this Duet is pretty useless, and I need to buy a new one. Thanks for all your help!

Please contact your supplier (info@duet3d.com if you got it directly from us) for a replacement.

What power supply are you using to drive the Duet and the pump motor?

I could. I'm in Sweden.

It's just a bummer that firmware 1.19 hangs the printer, whereas with 1.18 I could just ignore the bad driver and use E1 instead without any issue at all.

Great! Thanks!

Great, thanks!

I solved it by using a good old 7400 NAND chip, used as an inverter, with a pull-up resistor on the input. Seems to work nicely.

Now I see why I could not find my 'Download' it always save it as rr_download.txt
or rr_download-<n>.txt if you take the [Create New File] option instead of overwrite.</n>

This is all very useful and interesting information, but the reason I mentioned it was to determine whether others had similar behavior, and foremost to see whether this is to be expected or if it's an unwanted side effect that needs addressing. Thanks, though, for the tips ; I very well may alter my habits wrt resetting in the future based on the points brought up in this thread.

Jonathan

Some suggestions:

1. Switch the bed back to bang-bang control, using the B1 parameter in the M307 command.

2. Try connecting the LED strip directly to your power supply instead of to VIN. That avoids the resistance of the leads from the PSU to the Duet causing voltage drop at the Duet when the bed heater turns on.

3. Use a better-regulated power supply (probably in conjunction with (2) above).

4. If your 12V PSU has sufficient extra power capacity. turn up its voltage to 14V, then use a 12V low dropout regulator to provide a better-regulated 12V supply for the LEDs.

5. Use a separate PSU for the LEDs, or a separate PSU for the bed heater.

6. In a future firmware revision I may make the bed heater PWM configurable, then you will be able to turn it up to 70Hz or greater, high enough for the eye not to see.