Hi, many thanks, all working nicely, I found a version of Marlin configured for piezo Z probe. Just had to invert Z min and alter rod length. Most impressive when working. A nice addition to my Linear plus.

Thank you.

Please contact your supplier (info@duet3d.com if you got it directly from us) for a replacement.

Good deal, I'll put the IR sensor on the Cartesian I'm upgrading then that has a solid bed, works out well.

Awesome! That's great design - can't wait to get the everything setup on my big delta.

You could perhaps put a dollop of hot glue over some of the more sensitive areas near where a screwdriver might be. It might fall off though. You can also try clear silicone.

Thanks again!

Probably, but it will be less sensitive.

uses the "always_on" port as hotend fan and mapped the tool with a F1 the Fan_1 to the part fan..

Great! Thanks DC!

I presume you mean 1000mA and 1200mA (1A and 1.2A). Normal motor current is between 60% and 85% of the rated current of the motor.

Yes I ment 1A, forgot to remove the milli after the conversion. I've increased the current to 1.3A but it had no effect on the pattern.

I suggest you check that the carriages run freely up and down the towers when the rods and belts are disconnected. Unless they are extremely light, they should drop under their own weight.

I use the typical kossel carriages and they did drop of their own weight until i tightened the horizontal screw through them to lower the chance of warping in the Z-axis. It might not be needed anymore since I switched from the traxxis rods i used before.

Lubricating the magnetic ball studs may also help - I use silicone grease on them.

Gonna go get some tomorrow to give it try.

wouldn't build a KosselXL again with 2020 and use 2040 instead, which extrusions are you using?

Oh I'm using 1515 rods, which is one of the reasons i tightened the carriages. The carriages is printed in PLA and from what I recall the "handle" didn't flex that much but since I have a horizontal screw through it it cannot flex that way while assembled.

Just a short update:
After replacing the 30mm e3d fan with a 40mm one, pwm works great at all frequencies.
However still have to set the frequency to >20khz to not have either flickering LEDs or an anoying sound.

as long as you applied the M666 and M665 then the M579 is good to get to your goals lol

Awesome, thanks for the help again.
It is great to have help learning all this.
Really having a lot of fun and it is so cool to have something you make work.

Images: https://imgur.com/a/RPKQe

Notice i used a 25mm spacer for attaching the extruder motor mount which helped, but once attached to the rods it won't come off again.
It features a swivel mount as i found the steel cable was applying too much force when the print head was near the z tower (as the bend radius was too small).

The red string that is attached to the cable is a constant velocity spring using a flexible matierial, which i just attached and did help, too (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:448340)
I think this could work but has to be printed stronger and need to use a proper mount on the top extrusions.

@Nuvag:

Nice designs, i would like to use a 50mm radial fan with a circular duct and may create a remix of srs5694's design for that.

I toyed with doing that. In fact, my design is based on an earlier effector-and-fan design that I did, which used a 50mm radial fan, before I got fed up with the inductive probe I was using and decided the Smart Effector looked like the best way to do bed probing on a delta printer. Although I've abandoned that effector design for myself, I'm planning to publish it, probably this evening (US Eastern time). You might be able to merge bits from the two designs once I publish the effector.

That said, one reason I didn't pursue the radial fan idea is that placement of the fan seemed awkward. It would either need to lie on its side or be placed upright but extend out quite a way from the effector, with a rectangular duct to link it and the circular duct. It didn't seem worth the effort to me personally to design it – but of course if that's the design you prefer, and if my design helps you get there, then that's great!

Any idea how far away the fan duct should be from the heat block depending on the heat resistance of the material? Is the silicon sock enough to shield a pla/petg/nylon duct when getting very close to the sock?

I don't know for sure, but I can say that I printed my duct in PETG, and it seems to be holding up fine to printing PETG. (I've got an E3D V6 sock on my heat block.) My other printer (a Robo 3D R1+) has a PLA fan duct that's about as close to its nozzle as my fan duct design design gets to its nozzle, and even the Robo's fan duct seems OK. (It looks like it's softened a little, but not much.) I print PETG on that printer, too, so the heat block gets up to 250C or thereabouts.

@c310:

ok, i have got throat with PFTE tube inside and issus have gone. it can print up to 255 degrees.

Glad it fixed it for you. Don't be tempted to push the temperature any higher though - PTFE starts to give off nasty gases at around 260 degC

For now you could try reducing the travel speed between probing (T parameter in M558) and if it is safe to do so, also reduce the dive height (H) and increase the probing speed (F). This will allow the heaters to stay on for more of the time during probing. Meanwhile I will look at suppressing heater fault detection when the heaters are suspended.

I tested a relation to temperature changes by disconnecting the hotend fan while the z probe was triggering at 220 degrees. But the z probe stopped to trigger immediately.
After I let it cool down again I saw a little "nugget" of dust at the outer side of the fan which was not standing out of the fan before. When I pulled it out some fine fibres (thin like a hair) of plastic followed the dust nugget. It looked like the fan had sucked in some plastic fibres from stringy prints and they combined with normal dust to build up this nugget.
After removing the nugget I had an idea and tested the z probe again. It was working fine again.
My theory is that the dust nugget slid between the fan blades and the housing while I removed the smart effector from the printer. Afterwards it slowed down the fan and somehow, since it had to work harder, it maybe heated up internally, leading to stronger magnetic fields emitted (I have no idea if that is nonsense or possible) which influenced the z probe. This would be an explanation why the effect was slowly building up but immediately stopping when the fan was stopped.
So my problem is solved now and I hope this thread will be helpful to others running into this issue.
Thank you for your answers. 🙂