@rushmere3d Thank you.

@mct82 said in Duet3 1LC resets during print job - does not pause:

@dc42 So I made no changes to the wiring, but commented the M591’s out of the config and restarted. I was able to complete a 36hr build w/o interruption.

With that knowledge I will double check the wiring to the MFM. I’m wondering if a “sensor error” on the MFM could be causing a reset on the 1LC? Or maybe a wiring problem is causing both the sensor error and/or the 1LC resets.

If a software error caused the 1LC to reset, then the "Last reset reason" would show as "Software", not "Power up".

You can see the changes to the M307 parameters here: https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m307-set-or-report-heating-process-parameters

Perhaps we should have continued your previous thread.

@adammhaile Well they where working until I replaced them With Odroid C4's and then pulled off the odriod's from all but 1 printer. SBC mode has been more trouble than its worth.

@droftarts
Yeah I took the config.g from the Ratrig tutorial so I didn't wrote it and I just changed with my parameters and then it worked good so I didn't search deeper.
But it's nice to can correct that now, so thank you again for your time and your help !
See you ;))

This is also a standard way that thermistors fail ....

@droftarts Will give it a try! Thank you!

@clearlynotstef said in Pwm 5v pin duet wifi 2 gcode:

Alternatively, if I can't get a 5v pin with or without pwm, I'll see what happens if I just give it a 3.3v pwm signal. Presumably it'll just run between 0-60% or so? Is there a preferred pin to use for this with pwm? What's the gcode look like to create a pwm pin and assign it to be the part cooling fan?

PWM means Pulse Width Modulation. It is not controlling the actual voltage output, just how long the pin is on for. 50% PWM means that the pin is on, at 3.3V, for half the time. By 'time', I mean the frequency set by the M950 Q parameter. So no, it won't be on at 60%. It's just whether 3.3V is a sufficient voltage to trigger the fan controller to turn on.

Ian

Thanks everyone, I have emailed keenovo and will see what they come back with.

Is there a wiki page showing how to use the duet to trigger a SSR and also control temperature?

Thanks Richard

@nvigr8 Question: If I'm going to switch to a 3/8" 15.75x16.25 aluminum plate will I need to upgrade the Y stepper motor? Right now I'm using a single Nema 17 to drive the Y axis. Will that be powerful enough? Or should I go to two Nema 17's or a single larger stepper? Thanks.

@dc42

Once again I’m impressed.
Thank you. Your suggestion was spot on. I have installed a frame thermistor because I’m observing thermal frame expansion on Z and that frame thermistor got loose and touched the frame which caused ESD which I can also reproduce.

@jay_s_uk Yes, i ordered one with lower power density. And also to make it smaller than the bed in order to apply some RTV frame around. As far in EU delivery from keenovo will be slow I also ordered fermio labs one 300x300 with built in 150 deg C protection that is good price 49 EUR and fast delivery. IT also produced by keenovo.
Original one 300x400 was 900 wats, the fermio one is 500 W. With the original one hotend fan was havinf hard time
Also to balance things I am adding 250 W chamber heater with fan for abs and other warping materials

@fusedeep said in Nearly there! Temp and bounce (Board not borked):

@fcwilt

; homeall.g
; called to home all axes
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.3.10 on Wed Apr 20 2022 11:07:59 GMT+0100 (British Summer Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-205 Y-255 F1800 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X5 Y5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-205 Y-255 F360 ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass)
G1 H1 Z-190 F360 ; move Z down stopping at the endstop
G90 ; absolute positioning
G92 Z0 ; set Z position to axis minimum (you may want to adjust this)

; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing
;G91 ; relative positioning
;G1 Z5 F100 ; lift Z relative to current position
;G90 ; absolute positioning

When you home with a Z probe the homing order is typically X > Y > Z

When you home with a Z endstop the homing order is typically Z > X > Y

So you should move the commands here that home Z before the commands that home X and Y.

See my other post regards the G1 H2 Z5 F6000 and the G92 Z0.

Frederick

@gloomyandy Grounding can be complicated, and most publications about that are it as well - or quite indeterminate and vague. You can imagine the grounding line of mains as a big cage which shields its tiger (AC power) against the outside (which we are part of). General rule: AC leads may never touch the cage.

– Note of caution: there are regions on earth without this third grounding line: I don’t cover this case here. Stop reading. –

In contrast to mains power, low DC voltages are dinky cats, they need not to be caged, but - as is the case with computer equipment or our printers - there are plenty of them: 3.3V, 5V, 12V, 24V, or even negative voltages. These DC voltages often need a common reference point: ground. Ground is different from the AC mains cage, but may be connected to this.

As a rule of thumb, within a printer, there should be one single connection to the tiger’s cage (the mains grounding line), and all DC Power supplies should reference this point, i.e. should explicitly connect their ground to that. As it's bound to earth, this is a good thing.

All metal parts of our printer should also be connected to this single reference point, by this building a kitty cage of our own. This implies that we keep all further DC cables separate from this, both poles. The reason is that we can’t really trust our cage: our playful kitties churn lots of amps, jump around with voltage spikes, handle sensitive signals and provoke static charges with their balls of wool …

So, the second rule is: don’t save a line and connect your load (controller, sensor, motor or heater) to the metal nearby - that’s the cage, not ground power. Always use a separate line, keep it distinct from the kitty cage.

To protect against static charge, we need a third rule: all metal which might be electrically isolated from the frame, e.g. steppers on printed mounts etc., need to be wired to some part of the cage (metal framework of our printer) nearby.

That’s as short as I can put it - three simple rules. – Oh, I forgot one last cat in my zoo: Shielding. For our purposes, a forth simple rule is good enough: connect the cable’s shield to GND of the source (usually a Duet), not to the destination’s ground and not on both ends. Then, all kitties should be happy, and our printers, too. 😊

@phaedrux Thank You that is exactly what I needed to know. Appreciate the help.

@otso this is now fixed in the source code. The fix will be in RRF 3.5.0beta1 and in 3.4.1beta1.

@rmilyard I haven't tried the SSH file in a while in favour of the advanced settings of the Raspberry Pi Imager but I'd expect it should still work. If you are on the stock DuetPi image, you can enable SSH using an M-code as well. You can send this using the console:

M586 P2 T1 S1

@hkindy to help us advise you, please count the number of stepper motors on your machine (probably 6) and report any model numbers of those motors that you can read on their labels.