Wow, those Objet prints looks amazing.

If you are handy with a soldering iron, it is best to directly solder the wires to the sensor and connect it to a locking connector a few inches away. You have to remove the existing connector on the IR sensor in order to thru mount the wires into the connector plated thru holes. Once you connect to your harness, put kapton tape around the mating connectors to prevent accidental disconnects.

If you are not handy, I suggest adding some flexible but strong glue like E6000 around the joint to keep it in place. I wouldn't use a glue gun since it is not as strong as E6000.

Where can I get those slim blower fans?

Thanks!
Ian

Nice print. Its very satisfying when something that shouldn't work, works brilliantly.

@jmjcoke:

@iDevelo:

Yeah tape is a real pain in any form. 3Dlac for PLA and Dimafix for ABS and Polycarbonate.

http://www.hawk3dproto.co.uk/bcn-3dlac-3d-printing-heatbed-lacquer.html

What temp are you running the bed @ for PC?

For PC usually 100c with Dimafix.

@T3P3Tony:

Fantastic Ian! Is that using the external driver I sent you?

Sure is Tony. I had to tweak the current down from how you supplied it as I have very small 0.4Amp steppers on the E3d Titans but other than, it's working fine (at least good enough to start dialling the machine in). I was just about to send you an email - check your inbox in about half an hour. Cheers. Ian

@Pumlux:

When using Slic3r as slicer, you can add individual commands on layer change.

Well blow me down, so you can. I've been using Slic3r for ages but my eyes never got that far. G codes on tool changes too - now that could be useful. Thanks for pointing this out.
Ian

Ok for max draw, i will check this.
I 've ordered this motor : Leadshine Close Loop system NEMA 23 motor ISS57-10
Waiting for them now…