@engikeneer said in Help with Slic3r PE 2.2:

ou tried enabling 'support on

ey....

this is, thanks @engikeneer

So I took a sliced file and randomly chose 3 different points to calculate the steps per mm. The ratio is between 7.3 to 7.5 XY steps to E steps.. Don't think they're lining up too well in terms of pulses. Still have my doubts on what's causing this, as it seems to be the result of several things lining up to create it..

Okay, found a simple solution. Changed the following settings.

Under:

Profile settings - Printer G-code - Select New Ext & Warm:

From:
; Head to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> F6000

To:
; Head to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> Z50 F6000

Under:

Profile settings - Printer G-code - Warm Same Ext:

From:
; Move to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> F6000

To:
; Move to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> Z50 F6000

Ah right! I'm using some of the colours for different functions such as completed prints, paused prints, cancelled prints etc. I'm not currently planning on using all of the colours though, but at least they're available for future use.

Would need to see a full sliced gcode file from each slicer to actually see what's different between them. Even when the settings are largely the same, they will still be different because they use different algorithms and techniques and have different options between them. But rest assured, once tuned, both can produce prints that would be basically identical from outward appearances.

Yes you could run a slicer on the pi, but it will be a bit slower than on your PC and I don't think it would solve any of your problems.

@jmjcoke Sweet!

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation

That's exactly what mesh compensation is good at.. compensating for.

the max retraction speed for the Dyze is 25mm/s , but i will try the other settings....i can always go higher than 25 but am sure will be clogging time

If you're trying to measure wall thickness for extruder calibration, try this method instead: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40#s165

Then if you want to measure dimensional accuracy, print a larger complete cube and measure total width on the sides and on the diagonals.

Glad you got it sorted

@Danal said in Is G Code file the same for delta and carthesian designs?:

incompatibility

alright, ill get to it then, thanks again!!

Wooo Hooo!

I went ahead and drilled two holes near the edge of the bed and made some diy pins. The pins are 3mm diameter and spaced 60mm apart. Since hand drilling not really precise and a fabricated the pins from a nail, I epoxied the pins in the blind holes.
The result is decent, there's some play in the top plate's holes. Though you really have to grab the bed to be able to move it. If my printhead exerts the force needed to move it against the print, I believe I have biggert issues 🙂 .
SlipperyBed.jpg
(agreed, the machine shop with off the shelf pins route would be nicer, but for a number of reasons I did not go that way).

@dc42 said in Fixed heated bed question and suggestion:

It was then that I realised that the twist wasn't in the bed, it was because the two Y linear rails were not exactly parallel.

I think that's quite common in aluminium-extrusion framed printers! Either because the printer isn't built quite square, or it's sitting on a table that isn't flat. Also afflicts bed-slingers, but again, a folded bit of paper under one corner sorts that out too.

Ian

Do you print inner or outer perimeters first? Either way, switch it around.