@bearer Nice tip. thanks

Ok thank you, appreciate the reply. I'll give it a shot!

You may also want to look at this as an option

https://forum.duet3d.com/category/33/dueui

It's fully configurable and is displayed in a browser on the Pi. It's what I use on my Pi 7" TFT and allows me to conveniently use the Pi for other things. To be sure the choice is somewhat a personal preference.

I have posted a configuration for the Pi 7" TFT here and will be posting an enhanced version soon.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/14835/share-your-dueui-configuration

@OwenD Thank you so much, I have been looking for this solution for so long!

@hackinistrator said in DUET3 hardware revision difference:

thanks for clarifying . so with those changes , from the software side of view 1 and 1.01 are the same .

Yes. There is an additional difference between 0.6 and 1.0, which is that the thermistor reference resistors are connected to VREFMON instead of VREF. RepRapFirmware detects the board version and handles that difference.

@vic03 said in Duet 2 Maestro - no ethernet connectivity LEDs:

wifi works fine with latest firmware. I was using the latest from the config site https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start.

Latest could mean different things to different people, some would call 3.2RC4 the latest, others would say it's 3.1.1 - and it doesn't answer the question if you used the same version on both boards.

configtool siste has a lot of options, saying you use the latest falls in the same category - ambiguous at best.

Set your YAT line ending to LF only, then you will be able to read the responses. Send M552 S0 so that it stops trying to connect. Then send the M587 command with your SSID and password.

you could:

disable power via USB by taping off the power connection in your USB cable power the board via the optional external 5V input (see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Hardware_Overview for the wiring diagram).

Also make sure to check the back of the board for any bad solder spots, and as others said before, triple check your wiring.

The motor being outside the enclosure is true for a convection oven (or other very hot air) fan. However, the back of an oven is still pretty hot. I would expect the windings and bearings on such fans might still be capable of fairly elevated temperatures. I used to wind coils out of HAPTZ wire (see, for example, https://wire-cable-tubing.wireandcable.com/viewitems/magnet-wire/heavy-armored-polythermaleze-round-magnet-wire ) which is good to 200C operation. A fan wound with that and with dry bearings might be available, and capable of running at 150C. Finding one is the trick, of course.

@Veti someone went through and helped me reconfig the whole thing thank you for the help.

Thank you..

I switched to the 3.3V pin. It still did not work. I had to shield the wires from noise. Some noise from the driver was invoking the triggers I was using. Thanks for the help!

I took popped one of the mosfets on one of my printers. Rather unfortunate grounding incident 😢

Luckily I had another free PWM output so I was able to move over the connector.

I have also seen fans go weird about PWM after a while. 25mm fans I've gotten I've seen fail to start. So much so that I now put B3 to blip the fan for 3 seconds into my config.

Those mosfets are tiny and I was tempted to repair it (have a hot air rework station) but since my board is actually functional in its current state, unless I fry another I'm not going near it 😄

seem to be working now thanks for the help

I use a Lulzbot Taz 5 (old one) power supply for my printer. I chopped the cable and used the wires how I saw fit. It came with a ferrite bead between the PSU and controller, and I left it in place. It uses a meanwell 500 W PSU.

@oliof said in Wire Gauge for Toolboards:

with a 40W heater, a mini IR probe, single 5015 fan for cooling on an open frame corexy (ratrog V-Core Pro). The wires don't seem to get warm during prolonged use (tested with a 36h long print). I used 16 or 18 AWG wires before (speaker cables), and those had insulation that was too thick for the crimps to hold properly.

This is fairly close to what I have.
Thanks.

@bearer Thanks
I will look it over and see if makes sense to do the changes

@Nellor Your homing file probably has a Z lift.