https://www.filastruder.com/products/duet-connector-kit-1

@jay_s_uk: Hah! Got it! So it turns out I tried many but not all perumutations. This worked, I didn't have the ! in the M558 command before:

;M574 for e0stop (removed)
M558 P5 C"!e0stop" H5 F120 T6000

Thanks!!!

Buff with a Galaxy Nexus that's impossible. 😞
Ok I already ordered a pair of mosfets.
As soon as they arrive and put them in an electronic store.
I comment if the problem has been fixed
Thank you.

@j3d,@Phaedrux .M122.txt
Thank you both! you were correct and it solved my problem printer is up and running. Very much appreciate you guys helping me out with this and information that will indeed be useful in the future.

Yep, so my thought was that if the board was placed on an ESD bag while it was powered, the slight conductivity could have shorted some near-by pins on the back of the board.

@Phaedrux said in RRF 3.2 (possibly) related scare:

I wonder what the popping was.

@dc42 said in RRF 3.2 (possibly) related scare:

Same here. A popping with no damage could possibly have been the power supply starting up, then cutting out because of overload, then repeating. If it's a small PSU (because it is not powering the bed heater) then a hot end heater short might cause that without blowing the 15A fuse.

The PSU is actually overpowered (~500W) for the job is currently has. Originally, it was powering a 250W 24 bed heater as well as everything else. (It's a good meanwell PSU.)

I'm also extremely curious what the popping was, but I have no intention of trying to repeat it. I feel like I got lucky with no apparent damage, and I really don't want to test that luck.

From what I can remember, the popping noises weren't loud and very well could have been the PSU turning on/off. It was 5-6 pops over 2-3 seconds. To be completely honest, when it happened, my only concern was "kill power" and any curiosity came much later.

Since then, everything seems to have worked fine. I converted the duet3 to use a SBC, calibrated, printed multi-hour prints, etc.

yes the initial diagram was incorrect.

Can you please change your end of line settings in YAT so that the formatting is easier to read and the entire output can be captured?

Check the EOL (end-of-line) settings or increase the limit in the advanced terminal settings.]

Short Update, maybe helpful for somebody.
I had still Communication Problems, doesn't matter what i tried,
now my Configuration looks a bit different and i'm running very happy

Duet 3 MB6HC in Standalone Mode to TP Link Nano, and a
Raspberry Pi 4 with Octoprint to Provide a Camera URL, Octoprint doesn't need to Control anything... so the Stream isn't laggy by any means

All Together in the Original Chiron Sheet Metal Cabinet/Box, + 1 PWM 60mm Noctua Fan, no flimsy extra space needed....
since that i've run 3-4 over 22Hour Prints without any Issue.

Many thanks to you all for the crimp tool recommendations.

I will try the Japanese Engineer PA-21

Regards,

J.

Hazzah! 👍

I could have sworn I had already tried C"exp.heater3" but this time around it's working. Not ideal for my current wire length but at least it's working!

Thank you @Phaedrux !

Now you've learned the power of on the fly configuration!

Yes you can use the marlin format if you wish. though most slicers should output the correct reprap syntax when set to reprap gcode flavour.

hi @Kulitorum @too I have had a look at the gcode and config and done some calculations on max step rate. the values are quite reasonable so surprised you are seeing hiccups. It would be good to discuss in person further, I will email you tomorrow morning.

In the mean time, at what point in the print are you seeing the weird outputs? Also do you see that with RRF 3.2?

@Phaedrux Yes it is. Glass beaded pa-12

I haven't noticed that with SerialTools on MacOS Catalina. What version of macos are you running?

Thank you for your help! Upgrading the firmware was painless as you suggested, and it looks like it was the H value that was causing the issues as you said. It would check the first one, but then instantly try to put back out the pin. Again, thank you so much, that was driving me crazy.

Yes - no problem doing that.

When I got my first Duet 3 boards I set them on a piece of MDF so I could test them, step by step, and become familiar with how they worked.

Frederick