Topics created by ageis

@Phaedrux
I have replaced the jumpers on the second connector. I didn't connect the motor to the board
I still get the same error message.

I think it's likely the fall killed the driver because it also broke the mount that mounts the motor onto the frame. Like @droftarts said it may have forced it upwards at speed and killed the driver.

@ageis said in How to monitor if the fan is spinning:

So I have one normal 3pin for the hotend. I was wondering if there is a way I can monitor if it's spinning?

I find that using a basic Eyeball Mark I works pretty well. 😀

Frederick

@droftarts
Sorry I forgot to tell you it's a Prusa MK2S
I ave tried the tramming process using my feeler gauage as reference. However I still get a bogus height map. Now it's has a little mountain in the top right corner.

So I have home all axis then used dwc to move to each of the four corner. the back two corners are now lower than the front two.

I have order some springs from Amazon. I will try with the springs tomorrow.
heightmap

@ageis said in resuming print:

I get kicked out of the house at 10pm by my parents.

Ouch !!!

@ageis https://www.antclabs.com/about

@ageis while @deckingman is correct, the (my) rule of thumb is that every printer has a 'happy' speed and going above that is going to cost you quality. Re turning the speed factor up to 200 ... why not use the slicer's built in features? Set the first layer speed at 50% and then the speed will double automatically. If your slicer has a separate speed for small features, set those to be another 50% slower. That way everything happens automatically (since you are lazy and all that 🙂 ).
Speed also is very dependant on not just the printer but things such as what filament you are running. Most filament will specify what speed is best and those are safe speeds to start at. As you work out the quirks on your printer you can increase those recommended speeds.
PLA is afaik usually specified as around 100 or 120 mm/sec but a lot of printers can run at 150% of that. Some printers will let you go to 400 mm/sec but even though they are capable, you will likely see a difference between a part printed at 100 mm/sec and one printed at 400 mm/sec. Only you can determine how good/bad your print needs to be to satisfy you.
As @deckingman says, do two back-to-back prints.
Oh, it also makes a difference of what you are printing - threads for a nut will require a slower speed than a basic square cube.

@ageis What hotend? What printer? Maybe a photo?

Possibly the PTFE tube has melted in and got stuck, or heat creep has caused the filament to form a bulge that can't pass out of the hot end. You may be better extruding filament, then pulling it back once the bulge has been pushed down and melted. Or it could be that you have too much retraction, and molten filament is being pulled back and getting between the end of the PTFE tube and nozzle, forming a bulge.

To avoid in the future, try not to leave filament at temperature in the hot end for a long period of time, without extruding.

Ian

@ageis said in capacitive sensor - does it get affected by magnets:

I think I will gve the bltouch a try. My logic is, it's the only onethat actually contacts the bed. Inductive and capacitive don't actually touch the bed.

Which is a good thing to my way of thinking. They are much faster than the BLTouch since they are no parts that need to move.

Frederick

@ageis This page seems to have the best description of the wiring https://www.3dpedie.cz/en/manuals/p.i.n.d.a-v2/

BLACK > Output signal from the probe
BLUE > GND, or ground
BROWN > +5V
WHITE > Temperature sensor output

I think you have a Duet 2 Ethernet? You'll need to split out the +5V (Brown) and temperature sensor output (White) and connect them to +5V (the Z probe header only has 3V) and a thermistor input respectively. Black and Blue can connect to the appropriate connections on the Z probe header.

For configuration, define the probe with M558, the thermistor with M308 and the probe offsets and compensation with G31. There's an example in the Gcode Dictionary in the G31 entry: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#g31-set-or-report-current-probe-status

; RRF 3.3 and later example of probe with thermistor and temperature compensation M558 P8 C"io2.in" H1 F1000 T6000 A3 ; Prusa PindaV2 Endstop M308 S2 P"temp2" A"Pinda V2" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; Prusa PindaV2 Thermistor G31 P500 X23 Y5 Z1.1 S21 H2 T0.02 ; Nozzle offset - Smooth Sheet

The above is for Duet 3, so change the input pins to the ones you are using (M558 C parameter, M308 P parameter).

Ian

@ageis, 0.3 mm is not excessive. I use that quite frequently. Don't call that a 'resolution' issue though. Your printer might have a much much higher accuracy for positioning the nozzle but there are all kinds of inaccuracies introduced as you lay down the filament (even if your nozzle was to be within 0.001 mm of where it should be). On top of all that, there are errors introduced during the slicing. For example, a hole is never 'round'. It is an approximation of round with many little facets. The net effect is that the hole is always smaller then as laid out in the CAD program (some slicers have a setting to compensate for that)
While round holes is not an issue in your case, you will run into other errors such as bulging corners from inaccurate pressure advance calibration or even things like ripples introduced due to harmonic vibrations as the printer prints.

Good luck!

@ageis said in Configuring Mesg bed leveling:

@fcwilt

It's similar to your second printer. It uses magnets embedded into the bed itself. It also has screws at the top which match holes on the steel sheet

What type of inductive sensor do you use?
Npn or pnp?

Would the prusa pinda probe still work?

If I use the PINDA probe I then don't need to find a different mounting solution.

I use NPN NC (normally closed), though I have tested others (NPN NO, PNP NC, PNP NO). I have also tested capacitive units but never found a fast one.

I think it is important to have a sensor with a switching frequency specification that is fairly high, as long as you don't compromise on other important specs.

This site has a good selection and good specs - check the range of switching frequencies - from 100 Hz to 7000 Hz.

AutomationDirect

I think the PINDA would be a suitable choice although I don't recall testing one.

Frederick

@droftarts
Ah good to know. I wasn't aware of that.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Duet_wont_respond

Best to start here and let us know how far you get.

@ageis said in Duet bed not receiving power:

M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0

Which pin do you want to use instead?

Find the pin you want to use and look up it's name here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_2_family/Duet_2_WiFi_Ethernet_Hardware_Overview#pin-names

Then replace "bedheat" with that pin name.

@ageis that blog entry hasn't been updated for many years. Documentation on connecting the IR probe (and other TYPES F z PROBE) is at https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_connecting.

You don't need zprobe.mod for the IR sensor, it's only needed for the dumb modulated IR sensors supplied with later Ormerod and Huxley kits supplied by RepRapPro.

@Phaedrux
13v
The maximum speed and acceleration values are different from what I had in my old config.g.

Now it doesn't make that high pitched noise as it struggles to move upwards.

This is why in my rather convoluted update process I ask people to use I have them upload the primary release zip files even if they are already on that release.

And updating from 1.x is even more involved.

In this case I would update to 2.0 first, and then 2.05.1 and then 3.0 and then 3.1.1. The last 3 of those are quite easy once you're on 2.0. It may seem tedious to do it this way, but it also ensures you have all the needed files from all the releases along the way.

First start with the 2.0 bin file. Upload it to the /sys folder and then send M997 to flash it if it doesn't detect it automatically.

https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/2.0/Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin

At this point you can upload the web interface update zip file to the /sys folder, as is, don't extract it.

https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/2.0/DuetWebControl-1.21.1.zip

Now you should be able to upload the modern release zip files, as is, don't extract it, straight to the /sys folder. It should detect and update the firmware and web interface and reboot.

Upload these zip files, one at a time in the system tab. Don't extract them first. Reboot after each. Use M115 in the gcode console to verify the firmware has been applied.
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/2.05.1/Duet2Firmware-2.05.1.zip
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.0/Duet2and3Firmware-3.0.zip
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.3/Duet2and3Firmware-3.3.zip
https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.4.5/Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.5.zip

@ageis said in Blown bed heating circuit on duet wifi:

why does it matter which ground I use to measure my voltages? Does the gnd for bed not end up at the vin gnd? Otherwise it wouldn't be a complete circuit, would it?

Like other control boards, the Duet switches the negative side of the bed heater output. So the negative terminal of the bed heater output is only at ground potential when the heater is commanded to turn on. At other times it will be at the VIN potential. So if you measured 13V with the bed heater commanded off, I guess that the gate voltage was 0V and your VIN is 13V.

@ageis it has to be the underside because you want the top side to be PEI for your print to adhere to.

The reason for painting it is that PEI is transparent to IR so the sensor sees reflections from both the top and the bottom surfaces, which makes it less accurate. Painting the underside reduces the reflection from the bottom surface.

@ageis bear in mind that the IR LEDs that we use in the sensor are quite highly focussed, unlike the IR LEDs in remote controls. So you will to have your camera in line with the beam to see them.